Resplendent in plum on the pink strands of Coll

13/06/2009

Resplendent in plum (this season's must have shade for the discerning sea kayaker) David added a splash of colour to the grey scene. His emergence onto the sands of Hogh Bay was greeted by the appreciative pipping of the resident oyster-catchers. His outfit in plum proved to be very harmonious with the pleasing pink tinge to the sand in these parts.


The kilometre long strand of Hogh Bay was totally deserted, the only footprints apart from our own...


...were of geese and oyster-catchers.


I think the P&H Cetus has really lovely lines.


Soon we were paddling past Ben Feall with more headlands of gneiss.


The north facing Feall Bay's sands stretch for 1.5km. It proved to be as crowded as its northerly neighbour.


Ben Feall is only 66m high but it adds shelter, character and ruggedness to Coll's amazing strands.


Feall Bay backs onto a dune system that falls to Crossapol Bay, only 340m to the south.

13/06/2009

The North West Coast of Coll

Overnight, fresh winds and torrential rain had battered our campsite on Coll's NW coast. The wind had begun to drop before we launched but as it did so, hordes of midges attacked what little flesh we had exposed to the elements.

The NW coast of Coll is composed of a myriad of skerries, sandy bays and bold headlands. We made our way in through the skerries to explore Cliad Bay...


...before making our way back out to the swell breaking on Rubha Ard.


TT101, FV Tarka, was tending her lobster pots. Built in 1996 her home port is Coll and she is 11.9m long.


The little bay at Clabhach is backed by crofts.


The pink-grey rocks of Rubha Hogh are typical of this part of Coll and are formed from Lewisian gneiss.


The surf in the NE of Hogh Bay was about 4.5' and we did not fancy risking a landing.


Fortunately at the SE end, there was hardly any swell and we landed on the magnificent Hogh sands to take a first luncheon.

13/06/2009

The poetry of distant mountains' names.

Leaving the Cairns of Coll, we paddled down the NW coast of Coll. As we did so a cold SE wind got up as a front moved in across the sky. We knew that this would bring rain and force 5 winds but that it would pass through within 24 hours. We had come to this area in search of the pod of orcas which yachting friends has recently spotted here. We left without seeing any but sharp eyed Jennifer drew our attention to two breaching minke whales. Fantastic stuff!


We found this bay, which was protected by an offshore island. Magicseaweed.com had predicted a surf height of 4.5' for the next day, so it would make for an easier launch than some of the bigger surf beaches.


We set up camp with the distant mountains of Barra and South Uist in the Outer Hebrides breaking an otherwise empty Atlantic horizon.


A disadvantage of such a sheltered spot was that the entire local midge population joined our evening meal in what proved to be a feeding frenzy, until we donned midge hoods and jackets. Fortunately our midge jackets still allow you to enjoy a cup of coffee in relative peace.


We then set up a little heart warming.


Fortunately as the breeze got up, the midge attack lessened and we were able to emerge into the night from our jackets like giant insects casting off a chrysalis. The aurelian paddlers of Coll were now masters of the night again and not the pesky Culicoides impunctatus.


As we enjoyed our Bowmore and Glenfiddich, the sun slowly went down behind the hazy blue mountains of South Uist. These lay 80km distant, over the now dark Sea of the Hebrides. From the left, we saw Beinn Ruigh Choinnich 276m, Triuirebheinn 357m, Stulabhal 374m, Beinn Mhor 620m, Beinn Corradail 527m and Hecla 606m. We pondered the poetry of their names as the pink clouds slowly faded to ruby red and their summits disappeared into the night.

12/06/2009

The Cairns of Coll

We made landfall at Suil Ghorm, one of the islets in the Cairns of Coll ,which lie isolated by the tide races to the north of Coll.


It was a relief to stop paddling in the shelter of the Cairns. It was just after springs and the tide was stongest just to the east of the Cairns. We came across lots of swirlies and boils and our final approach was complicated by strong eddies and counter eddies.


Within the Cairns grey seals bask on every available rock ledge.


These two otters were completely oblivious to our passage as they devoured a recently caught fish.


We took a welcome break on these stunning white sands. I went for a swim in crystal clear water but did not last long as the icy water gripped my muscles.


To warm up, I climbed to the top of the islet. As there were no sheep or rabbits, the summit was covered in a blaze of wild flowers which smelled so fragrant after the salty air of the crossing.


In the distance, the Suil Ghorm light house stands guard over the channel to Rum.

12/06/2009

Sea kayaking Ardnamurchan to the Cairns of Coll.

We drove over the summit of the Ardnamurchan peninsula 4.5 hours after leaving Glasgow. The Cuillin of Rum and the Sgurr of Eigg boldly broke the blue vault of the sky.


We loaded our gear at Portuairk as quickly as we could...


...as the tide was ebbing fast.


Soon we were on the water with Muck and Rum to the north.


As we approached Ardnamurchan we met two sea kayakers coming the other way. We were delighted to meet with our regular paddling buddies, Gavin and Tony, who were nearing the end of their Kayak Caledonia expedition. They had covered 770km but amazingly we had been the first kayakers they had spoken to!


After a very pleasant half hour catching up on each others news, we went our separate ways. Tony and Gavin headed for a 2 hour snooze on the beach to the left of the lighthouse. They then went on to complete a 60km day from the Sound of Mull to Loch Moidart. We turned our bows to the distant Cairns of Coll.


A banana is a great pick me up on a 17km crossing.


In mid channel we were surrounded by a blizzard of Manx shearwaters who wheeled round us with wingtips flashing past our bows.


Jim looks SW to the tops of the distant Treshnish Isles that were "hull down" below the horizon.


P&H have very kindly lent me a new Cetus to try. It is beautifully finished with a glitter blue deck. Jennifer blagged first go. I will post a review once I have tried it in a variety of conditions. You can rest assured that it will be unbiased as I have 4 very nice sea kayaks in my garage and so did not "need" another to go paddling!

I expected it to be bigger than my beloved Quest but it is a much more delicately proportioned kayak. I like the look of it a great deal.

12/06/2009

The basking sharks of Coll and Tiree

Just back from a 120km trip out to Coll and Tiree.


We went fishing...


duh,duh,duh, duh, duh...


...but quite quickly we packed our rods away.


A Cetus is quite a long sea kayak...


...and it took some time...


for these little fellows to pass beneath us.

13/06/2009

14/06/2009

Days like these...

This yacht was visiting the Solway from the Isle of Man. Early the following morning, she hoisted her jib, then her main and lifted her anchor all in one smooth motion then slipped away on a broad reach to the Isle of Man.


It is always a pleasure to see a ship shape, well handled yacht when nowadays the majority stay in the marina or only venture out with the motor.


I drifted for some time on the ebb tide...


...but all too soon I had to break the glassy calm and my paddles drove me against the gathering current between Ardwall Island and the mainland.


As I entered Fleet Bay, the last of the sun slid towards the dark granite slopes of the Galloway Hills.


The sea turned to gold and ebony as the last gasp of the day slipped away with the ebb tide. Even the shrill pipping of the oyster catchers fell silent. I paddled home in the silence and the night gathered round me.

What would tomorrow bring?

31/05/2009 pm