Keeping abreast of mountain names round Loch Leven.

From Poll an Dunain we enjoyed a view of the sun catching the high ridges of Creag Ghorm 758m which rises steeply behind the Ballachulish Hotel from where we had set off.

 Although we were still in deep cold shade the sun was beginning to...

 ...rise above the deep valleys on the south side of the loch.

We now enjoyed a view of one of the most iconic mountains that surround Loch Leven.

Sgorr na Ciche is only 742m high but it is a proper mountain with a fantastic view of the loch.

I was last on its summit in 1998. It was late in the day in summer. We had just traversed the Aonach Eagach ridge to its east and were in the coll below its summit. We just started to ascend the peak when a man came down the steep slope above. "It's a bit late in the day to be going up there, it's quite a challenge" says he. "Well, I think we are ready for a challenge" says I.. "Well you will need to be very careful the ground is much rougher up there, what way did you come up here?" says he. "Actually we came down to here, we have just come along the Anoach Eagach ridge." says I. "Oh" says he and he scurried off down the path.

 The English name is Pap of Glencoe and Ciche means a young woman's breast.

In contrast, Mam na Gualainn  796m on the other side of the loch is named after the rounded breast of a more mature woman.

There was little wind but what there was was straight into our teeth from the east and the cold heart of the high mountains beyond.

We had to paddle out in to the loch to get round a huge salmon fish farm. We had enjoyed delicious local salmon in the hotel the previous night so could not complain too much. In the far distance we could now see the steep south ridge of Am Bodach 1032m which rises steeply from our destination, Kinlochleven. It is part of the Mamore range, the big rounded breasts.

As we passed the mouth of Glen Coe we had a wonderful panorama of the mountains on both sides of the glen: Sgorr na Ciche 742m,  Sgorr nam Fiannaidh 967m, Stob Coire nan Lochain 1115m, and Bidean nam Bian 1150m.

It was at this point that the plastic body of my thermometer cracked in the cold. It would never again register above zero. We were getting colder by the second in the biting wind.

 At last we spotted what we were looking for...

 ...a little beach, out of the wind with some nice rocks...

 ...to sit on and in full sun. It was a great location for first luncheon as we knew we would soon be entering the perpetual shade of the upper loch.

 It also enjoyed a great view across the loch to the...

 ,...snowy ridges and peaks of Beinn a' Bheithir 1024m.

Below Bidean nam Bian the sun was lighting the Fionn Ghleann, the fair glen.

Fourth element Arctic under suit long term test and review..

Although the west coast of Scotland sea temperature is still a balmy 11 degrees Celsius in mid December (due to the Gulf stream) the air temperature is not so warm. It was minus 5C when we set off the other day but the wind chill of a brisk north wind cut that down to -12C. Keeping warm in these conditions is vital.

My trusty Kokatat dry sit is now in its 4th winter and is still bone dry but what do I wear underneath?

I started using the fourth element Arctic two piece 4 years ago. It is composed of a double layer. The inner is a warm fleece with remarkable wicking properties. I usually just wear a pair of cotton pants (shorts) under the trousers and they stay bone dry. The Arctic outer layer is a closely woven water repellent and wind resistant layer. I never get too hot with the Arctic suit, neither do I get too cold. Importantly when I am sitting on an exposed beach for lunch and a cold wind is blowing, I still stay warm while others round about are shivering. I pair it with long Arctic socks and even my toes remain warm. The lower legs of the suit are a single layer so that the overlapping socks do not make them too bulky when putting your dry suit on and off. When I take my dry suit off at the end of the day I usually don't bother changing out of the Arctic suit. It feels nice and dry and remains warm even in a chill wind. (I could not do that in a previous huggy bear suit). I usually drive home in my Arctic suit. 

A great advantage of the Arctic suit is that it remains warm if it gets wet, for example if you puncture your dry suit or have a less than waterproof two piece and go for a swim. I tested this 3 years ago on a 37km mid winter paddle. At 10km we stopped for first luncheon and a pee break. My friend's kayak drifted off in the offshore wind. I waded in up to my waist and caught it but I had not done up the comfort zip. The Arctic trousers were soaked but I did not get cold. I continued on for the rest of the paddle feeling perfectly warm, if a little moist! After three winters and cold washing and drip drying after every outing there is no sign of wear or shrinkage. I tend to get arm pit rash with most under suits but I have never had a rash with the Arctic. I think that this is due to the layer next to the skin remaining so dry. I do have a friend with particularly sensitive skin who has suffered underarm abrasion with this suit. He solved this by wearing a lycra rash vest underneath. My only criticism of this combination suit is that the waist of the trousers is cut rather low for the kayaking sitting position and sometimes I get a cold gap at the back. Conversely there are four layers of overlapping cloth over your belly, which can be restrictive.

This criticism has been resolved since last winter, when fourth element introduced the Arctic one piece.  I am now using this in its second winter season. It is just as warm as the two piece but with no gaps and is much less restrictive round the waist. Compared to my old cheap huggy bear suit, it is much warmer, wicks better, is less bulky, is less restrictive, is wind proof and remains warm when wet.

The zip is double ended so males can still use the convenience zip on the dry suit. My one minor criticism on this suit is that as supplied, the alloy crimps at the top of the zip were razor sharp and cut my neck first time out. Two minutes with a nail file rounded the sharp edges. The Arctic one piece is not cheap at £189 but I think it is worth every penny.

My overall verdict is that the fourth element Arctic one piece is essential wear both for comfort and safety when sea kayaking in the Scottish winter.

Meall a' Bhuiridh

Here is news of performances of a new musical composition accompanied by a display of fine art photographic images inspired by the Glen Coe ski hill. The music is by Spad and the photography by my daughter Jennifer.

Photo Jennifer Wilcox

Photo Jennifer Wilcox

The performances are as follows:
1st March 2012– Glasgow, The Universal, 9.30pm (Tickets £6 and £4 consession)
3rd March 2012 – Glencoe Ski Centre, 6.30pm (free!)

The commission was supported by Creative Scotland.

Being a cheapskate, I thought I might head up to Glencoe on Saturday the third and go for a paddle in Loch Leven  then go for a a meal in either the Isles of Glencoe Hotel or the Clachaig before heading up to the ski centre. Anyone fancy coming?

Our finger tips were numb with the cold.

 As we turned back from Culzean...

 ...towards Maidens,...

...an approaching front...

...darkened the sky and...

...the temperature dropped like a stone. We entered Maidenhead Bay to the north of Turnberry and landed on the sands at the head of the bay. Our finger tips were numb with the cold but minds were refreshed by a great paddle in such glorious surroundings.

Blowing away the cobwebs with a chill wind from Valhalla and mulled wine.

Sunday dawned clear but with a 13 knot NW wind it was bitterly cold. We had intended launching at Seafield Ayr but the tide goes out a long way there and I have not been on the water  for 6 weeks because of continuing problems with my knees. So Tony and I continued south to Maidens for an easier launch. Unfortunately we missed Phil who was loading his kayak in the back garden and didn't hear our phone call. Arran's snow capped mountains were looking fantastic but that wind was coming straight from Valhalla.
              

From Maidens we turned south to round Turnberry Point. A north going spring tide against the wind meant some deliciously rough water off the lighthouse so there were no photos until we rounded the headland and were in the shelter of the reefs.

Turnberry beach, to the south of the lighthouse, proved an excellent sheltered spot for first luncheon washed down with warm mulled wine!

Snowy Glasgow

We had a little more snow in Glasgow yesterday, we have had snow in the garden since Friday 26th November.

It took over 4 hours to get home from work yesterday. My wife abandoned her car but I picked her up and was mighty glad to get the car home. A rear wheel drive automatic is not the best on snow but winter tyres made all the difference.

We were lucky some people had to spend the night in snow bound traffic jams as the country ground to a halt.

I hope it thaws enough to go paddling at the weekend! We are lucky having the Gulf Stream to paddle through the winter. I would hate to only have pool sessions for  a winter kayaking fix.

It's behind you, on the Clyde

In Scotland the snow tends to arrive with the Pantomime season.  It was quite cold when Tony, Alan and I arrived at Largs marina on the Firth of Clyde. I didn't dare take the short road over the hills, I took the long way round by Kilmarnock, Irvine and Ardrossan. In the distance, the mountains of Arran rose above Great Cumbrae island.
  

 The "pencil" celebrates the Battle of Largs in 1263. This conflict was between the Vikings and the Scots. The outcome was not clear cut but ultimately led to the withdrawal of the Vikings from Scotland.

We warmed up once on the water. We didn't cross the path of the MV Loch Shira ferry, as it steams back and forth across the channel to Great Cumbrae quite a bit faster than...

...we could paddle. She was built at the Ferguson yard just up the Clyde at Port Glasgow and entered service in 2007. As it was early there were few passengers the ferry had a fast turn around...

...err, Alan, perhaps you should be looking the other way. As they say in all the best pantos, "It's behind you!"

Relief in Bracken Bay

After the excitement in leaving Dunure harbour, we found the sea further out had built up a little swell. The shallow rock shelves, that project from each of the headlands, caused some turbulence on our return north to Ayr.


It was with some relief that we landed at Bracken Bay. Soon our flasks were out with some warming soup. Although there was an orange glow in the sky from the setting sun...


...the wind was blowing straight across the Firth of Clyde...


...from the snow covered mountains of Arran. It was bitterly cold.

The pull of snow covered mountains

We proceeded south. Although there was a clear blue sky...


...we were in the deep shade of the cliffs that tumbled into the sea from a frozen landscape above.


We took a break on a frost covered shore. We hopped from one foot to the other to keep warm.


Soon some hot soup and an 18 year old Glenfiddich achieved what the sun had singularly failed to do.


At the time, I had this lovely P&H Cetus out on loan. I must say I appreciated its stability in the months leading up to my knee operation.


The air was very clear and the mountains of Arran were so appealing. In fact, their pull was so strong that Phil and I would go on to paddle there just three days later!