Prospects at the three priapic pillars of Knockbrex.

 From Ardwall Isle we left the confines of...

 ...Fleet Bay and started to make our way out...

 ...towards the more open waters of the Solway Firth until we were stopped in our tracks by...

 ...the priapic pillars of Knockbrex. There are three pillars and they...

 ...lead into the recesses of...

...Knockbrex Harbour.

Whatever their provenance, the priapic pillars provide plenty of perpendicular photographic prospects whatever the weather.

These photos were taken exactly 2 years before our visit and show more typical October weather.

Whatever, if you come to this part of the Solway do remember to visit the three priapic pillars of Knockbrex.

Read more about these erections here on Ian's blog.

Setting off with a fair wind and tide on the Solway Firth.

The day dawned fair on Fleet Bay in the Solway Firth and as the line of clouds drew back to the SE we enjoyed some warm October sunshine.

Ian, Mike and I soon had our kayaks packed and at the water's edge. It had been our intention to paddle east to Sandyhills stopping at Little Ross Island and Hestan Island on the way. Unfortunately the firing range at Dundrennan was in use so we would not be able to pass. So we intended to do a there and back paddle as far as Kirkcudbright.

 It was a most marvellous start with a fresh tailwind and paddling...

 ...straight into the sun.

 The ebb tide was also with us and it seemed like no time at all until...

 ...we landed on Ardwall Isle for first luncheon.

We decided to climb to the top by way of the farm track which leads up from the beach. The farmer drives over from the mainland at low tide several times a year to cut the grass and bale it.

As we gained height we enjoyed a great view over the recently cut meadow to Murray's Isles Ravenshall Point and to Wigtown on the far side of Wigtown bay.

 There were plenty of brambles but almost no sloes.

From the summit we had a clear view back across Fleet Bay to where we had come from, the cluster of caravans under Ben John.

 The simple cairn at the summit of Ardwall Isle overlooks the grand...

 ...house at Knockbrex with its fields extending down to a little harbour.

Beyond Barlocco reef our way lay away to the SE, beyond distant Ringdoo Point.

For the full kayak stereovision experience follow Ian's blog which starts here.

Crisis on Gigha (or gie us a lobster).

As we set off through the skerries to round the north end of Gigha, the Paps of Jura put in a very brief appearance. A rumble of engines...

 ...announced the passage of the MV Finlaggan on route from Islay to Kennacraig.

 The NE coast of Gigha is dominated by two very large fish farms but...

 ...the views round East Tarbert Bay are still very fine.

 As we passed Port nan Corran (port of the point of land running far into the sea) we saw yet another small creel boat moored in its shelter. Its creels were stowed well above high water mark, the significance of which would hit us later...

 The east coast gets more interesting again at the bold rocks of Ardminish Point. In the distance we could see the sun glowing behind the Mull of Kintyre. Indeed as we were shrouded in grey, my wife was basking in the Indian summer sunshine on the Solway.

We now entered Ardminish Bay and timed our arrival so that we could cross behind the MV Loch Ranza...

 ...as she departed for Tayinloan on Kintyre. The captain gave us a cheery wave from the wheelhouse.

Beyond the ferry jetty lay our destination, The Boathouse where we had dined so well on our last visit. Its door was open and we were salivating with the thought of a brace of juicy Gigha lobsters! Unfortunately as we drew closer we saw that the sign said

"0 Gigha lobsters left, closed till next season."

We had missed it by one day!!! AAARRRGH! So we just had to sit on the picnic table and eat our own wraps with hummus, cheese, olives and grapes. Healthy enough but not in the same league as fresh lobster!

So all was not well on Gigha but we survived. The island is now owned and run by the community but all is not well with that either. Debt has increased but on the positive side so has the population, housing stock and employment. I do hope things work out.

Stoned on Gigha.

 From Poll Mor we approached Port na Cathrach on Gigha's exposed west coast. It has long been used for fishing, there are bait holes carved into the solid stone of the rocks near the old pier.

It was good to see the old pier was again in use by the Banff registered creel boat, BF42 Jewel (though her home port is Campbelltown).

Just beyond the pier lies the little sandy Port an t-Samhlaidh. On the hill behind the beach millstones were once carved out of the rock. A partly quarried millstone is still in situ.

 We then decided to circumnavigate the little island of Craro. The ownership of Craro includes the title The Baron of Gigha. This is currently held by Don Dennis who owns both Craro and Achamore House from where he runs his flower essence business. On Craro there is said to be a curious rock formation which is like a stone bull.

 We paddled all the way round Craro but found no obvious landing place so we set off...

 ...for Gigha again disturbing yet another otter on the way.

 There was no landing along the great rock wall of Cnoc Loisgte.

 Previously I have seen a pair of peregrine falcons here but today we saw only a large number of buzzards and a golden eagle.

 At last we arrived at Port an Duin were we...

 ...took a short break for luncheon on the shore below...

 ...the old water mill. I wondered if its mill stones had come from the quarry we had passed earlier. During our stop we were entertained by the silvery autumn song of a robin.

In the NE corner of Port an Duin a pile of stones form another rudimentary pier.

A pile of creels on the rocks suggest that this is another port that is being used by a fishing once more.

The shortest sea kayak camping trip ever? Just 7km!

Mike and I  found ourselves with a spare evening in the Oban area, I was due to meet Tony the next day for a trip over to Jura. So we went to Ellenabeich on Seil and set off to arrive at a great wee camp site before sunset.

 All was quiet when we set off from the harbour which is sheltered by Easdale island.

The calm did not last long. As we went round the outside of Easdale harbour it was three hours after slack water. We had some fun as the full force of a spring ebb was running against the wind and swell. There are no photos on the next short leg as my attention was taken by the sea conditions. As I headed for our intended landing spot the skerries were a mass of breaking water. I could sense Mike hanging back as I went into a dog leg between two skerries. I shouted it would be calm inside...

 ...and so it proved to be. We slid into an almost mirror calm harbour of a former slate quarry.

You can see why these are called The Slate Islands. We landed on a slate beach. The crystals are iron pyrites or fool's gold. When you break a slate open they are bright gold but soon turn to rust.

As soon as I got my tent up and got changed, I went off looking for something...

...and I found it! In October 2004, when I last camped here, I hid a stash of logs I had bought in a garage in a little cave. Nearly eleven years later they were well seasoned and bone dry! We would have a fire later!

We now only had seconds to go before the sunset. Mike was able to run up the hill and catch it but I was a bit slower as my knees were a bit sore after the long drive and the rushing about.

Although I very nearly missed the sunset I was pretty pleased to just catch the sun as it slipped behind Mull.

From the ridge above our camp we had a great view of the Garvellachs and Mull .

We could just make out Colonsay on the horizon to the left of the Garvellachs.

The coast of Luing stretched away past Fladda lighthouse, Scarba and Jura to Islay some 50km away. The inlet to the left is the Cuan Sound and the tide rored through it all night!

 We stayed on the ridge as the sky above Mull turned to gold.
 

 As night fell we got the fire going and baked potatoes in the embers of my rediscovered logs as Venus shone brightly in the cold sky above.

The following morning dawned clear and bright, the tide was ebbing fast. As the old slate harbour empties completely, we wasted no time and were...

 ...soon packed and on the water for our...

...short return to Ellenabeich. Mike and I both agreed that though this may well hold the record as the shortest ever sea kayak camping trip, it had also been one of the best!