A traverse of the Gulf of Corryvreckan disturbed only by a shoal of fish.

As we set off from Glengarrisdale Bay towards the Gulf of Corryvreckan which lies between the isles of Jura and Scarba...

...the morning's cold front began to clear leaving...

...Glengarrisdale in full sunshine.

Colonsay and Oronsay were now distant bumps on the horizon behind us.

All attention was now on the western entrance of the Corryvreckan ahead. As we approached, we could still see breaking standing waves on either side of Eilean Mor but our timing was impeccable and...

 ...as we slid our bows into the jaws of the 'vreckan, it had fallen fast asleep.

In fact at one point the water was so slack we had to resort to paddling.  However, within 5 minutes of slack water we were travelling at...

...8km/hr with minimal paddling effort. Even Maurice began to relax due to the mill pond conditions as we crossed the mouth of Bagh Gleann nam Muc (Bay of the Glen of Pigs) and inside Eilean Beag. It is at this point that unstable standing waves appear at the end of the flood (especially if there is any swell from the west) and a race and anomalous waves develop during the ebb.

All of a sudden the water beside Maurice's boat began to boil and he nearly jumped out of his dry suit. He thought the tides were about to engulf him. However, it  was just a large shoal of fish driven to the surface by either the tide or a predator such as a seal or a cetacean.

 Leaving the Bay of Pigs our speed increased to...

...12km per hour as we approached Carraig Mhor and a quick glance astern...

...showed that Eilean Mor was already over 2km behind.

This telephoto shot through the Corryvreckan shows our last distant view of Colonsay on the horizon beyond Eilean Mor.

As we rounded Carraig Mhor, the narrowest part of the Corryvreckan, at 14km/hr David had his sail up and then proceeded to take his legs out for a stretch. Sam's only comment was "Legend!"

I have been through the Corryvreckan many times but this was easily the calmest. Just in case you think it is always like this, have a look at...

...this photo, taken when Tony and I were entering the Corryvreckan from the NW, it might just give you second thoughts..

As we passed Port nam Furm at the east end of the Corryvreckan, we entered the Sound of Jura and the last leg of our journey to Jura, Oronsay and Colonsay.

Grey Moidart skies and green seas

As we carried the boats to the water's edge, low grey clouds were streaming from the summits of hidden mountains to to our east.

Under the grey skies the shallow water appeared an almost luminous green that matched the green of the machair we had just left.

 Although the clouds were scudding over head we...

 ...were paddling in the lee of the cliffs until...

...we passed the ancient crofting township of Smirisary. "Spade among the rushes" is an evocative book by Margaret Leigh. It describes her hardships trying to recover an abandoned croft here after WW2 as she tried to make a living to support herself and her mother.

 Once past Smirisary our bows began to turn east into the Sound of Arisaig and the wind picked up.

 We got a little respite as we passed close under Rubha Ghead a' Leighe but...

 ...then it was heads down as the easterly wind funnelled out of the Sound of Arisaig.

It was a cold, fitful wind and I could only snatch photos in the short lulls. My hands were numb with the cold and at one point I nearly dropped my camera trying to get a photo of the clouds streaming of the summit of Rois-Bheinn (878m).

Then we arrived in the shelter of Salalaman Bay just as a...

 ...blink of sun provided a moment's warmth before the rain started. It was here where we had left our shuttle car and our journey through and round the lands of Moidart came to an end.

On our previous trip we had left the shuttle car at the head of Loch Ailort. I am glad the weather forecast had accurately predicted the strong easterly!

So many views in Loch Shiel, you had better take a seat!

As we paddled SW down Loch Shiel, the sun began to...

 ...occasionally break through the cloud creating ever changing patterns of light and shade on the crags above and...

 ...the forests below.

 Although there are many attractive shingle beaches the camping behind some of them is difficult due to bog and tussocky grass and we intended getting well down the loch before being stopped by nightfall about 6pm.

Glenfinnan was now well behind us and we...

 ...entered a great amphitheatre in the mountains which became...

 ...wilder and wilder. The roaring of rutting red deer stags echoed round the high glens a sound truly evocative of autumn in Scotland.

The only sign of the hand of man was a lumber track which wound its way round the headlands on the SE shore but there was no sign of vehicles or people.

We enjoyed each other's company as...

 ...we shared this magnificent...

 ...wilderness of rocky summits which...

 ...tumbled down to deciduous forests which...

 ...clothed the north west shore in...

...superb autumn colours.

 Every so often we would stop and turn to look...

 ...back the way we had come.

Shadows from the clouds were racing across the hillsides, driven by the increasing wind.

As we approached the wild delta at the mouth of the river which flows into Loch Shiel from Glen Aladale, we found this somewhat incongruously but gloriously situated chair. 

For the full stereo vision experience read Ian's account here...

Slow paddling mode at the end of our Solway trip.

From Corbies Cove we paddled back towards our starting point in Fleet Bay. The Solway skyscapes were...

 ...still superlative and had been a real feature of this trip. We now entered that "slow paddling mode" that often happens when you know good trip is coming to an end but you want to make it last as long as possible.

However, the wind reversed as the tide changed and what had been a headwind was now a tail wind which carried us...

 ...up Fleet Bay to the caravan site at...

 ...Cardoness where we had left the cars. Unlike the previous evening we had timed our arrival to just after high water. Even so, trolleys were deployed and we soon had the kayaks back at the cars.

This trip had started as a stop gap "second best" as our planned trip round the NW of Mull had been aborted due to F5-6 Northerly winds.

Fortunately in the Solway, the winds on the first couple of days were only F4-5 and being northerly we gained shelter from the south west facing cliffs. I had been very worried that Ian and Mike might feel short changed by the Solway after our disappointment of cancelling our Mull trip....

...however, the Solway had proved to be a wonderful destination with: rugged cliffs, headlands, caves, wooded bays, sandy coves, islands, a lighthouse, castles, follies, ruins, history, leaping dolphins, spectacular sunsets, starry nights, fiery dawns, huge skyscapes, a delicious pub meal,  great camp sites, a scary pair of herons at midnight (but no ghosts) and above all great friends.

When we got changed and made our way up to the caravan we found that Alison had homemade soup and rolls ready for us, We enjoyed our final luncheon on the deck with a fabulous view over Fleet Bay to the islands. As we said our farewells, the ebb tide was gradually emptying the bay leaving exposed sand flats, where just a couple of hours previously we had been paddling.

We started from a private caravan site in Fleet Bay but alternative starts with free parking could made from Carrick shore, Brighouse Bay (toilets) or Kirkcudbright (toilets) depending on the tide. There is a pay car park with toilet at Cardoness, (150m to HW mark). If you want a base in the area there is a great basic mobile caravan and camping site right on the beach at Newton Farm 01557 840234, there is no toilet block only an elsan disposal point.