Sunday, August 23, 2015

Rare doldrums in the Firth of Clyde.

It has been a particularly windy and mostly wet summer here...

...on the west coast of Scotland.

I have had a great deal of...

...fun in a whole variety of...

...conditions and in a variety of...

...craft even including a return to...

...windsurfing after a gap of 6.5 years due to my dislocating knees.

I am not interested in sea kayak camping in such weather though so it was with great pleasure that Ian, Mike and I saw a brief weather window open on Monday and Tuesday last week.

So we met at Largs at 1300 hours and spent a little time fitting Ian's new Flat Earth Trade Wind 80 sail to his kayak.

We set off for Little Cumbrae island in a flat calm.

We met the  beautifully restored wooden gaff rigged cutter Islay. She was built in 1936 by Cooper of Conyer in Kent. Her construction is of teak on oak so she should be around for many more years. She certainly was not going any where fast and her sails were shaking with the gentle motion of the boat.

 We set off across the Tan unsure whether to pass the north or south of the Little Cumbrae island.

 In the end a little NW breeze got up so we paddle sailed across...

 ...from the Ayrshire coast towards the south of the island passing several porpoises on the way.

 Passing the Little Cumbrae castle, it was too good an opportunity to miss a...

...stop for first luncheon.

Saturday, August 22, 2015

From the sublime to the ridiculous in the West Kyle.


As the two sides of the West Kyle of Bute gathered towards us we came to Kilmichael. In the field in front of the cottage there is a chambered cairn called St Michael's grave. St. Michael founded a church near by but this cairn predates the Christian era by about 2,000 years.

Just round the coast from the cairn is the ruin of this abandoned house. It was the ferryman's house for the ferry that ran from Kilmichael on Bute to Blair's ferry on the Cowal side of the kyle. Although the rocks look too inhospitable for landing, there is a little cut with a jetty just to the NW of the house. The ferry was established in 1769 and ran until 1940 when it was closed due to WW2 military operations and exercises in the area. The house was occupied until that time. The ferry man operated the premises as an inn called "The Bottle and Glass Inn". Unfortunately we had arrived well after closing time.


The Kames Hotel on the opposite side of the Kyle  was open but as it was such a glorious day we decided to stay in the sun for our second luncheon. Amazingly a southerly thermal wind picked up and gave...

...us a little assistance past Tighnabruich to Caladh Harbour at the north end of the kyle.

Then at the north end of Bute we passed blow two garishly painted rocks known as the Maids of Bute.

As you can see from this close up from our March trip, they look nothing like "maids". I doubt they will be as long lasting as the chambered cairn at Kilmichael.

After a short paddle through the tidal south channel at the Burnt Islands we arrived back...

...at the ferry terminal at Rhubodach just as the MV Loch Dunvegan was pulling away from the jetty. Our  four day trip from the Kyles of Bute to Loch Fyne and Inchmarnock was now over. Sadly the Scottish summer of 2015 seemed to coincide with those four days and it would be some time before we went on a camping trip again.

We took the Calmac ferry to Bute from Wemyss Bay then drove from Rothesay to Rhubodach. We covered 91km in 3 whole days paddling.


Friday, August 21, 2015

Inchmarnock to the West Kyle.

We left the lovely but low lying isle of Inchmarnock floating on a wide expanse of limpid sea. It was...

...dwarfed by the high mountains of Arran on the far side of the Sound of Bute.

Our passage across the Sound of Inchmarnock was accompanied by a black throated diver which flew round and round us until it lost interest as we...

 ...entered the narrowing...

 ...confines of the...

...West Kyle of Bute.

We took a last look back at Inchmarnock before the last stage of our journey, which would take us on a winding route deep into the mountains where there would be no sign of an open horizon.