The Gulf of Corryvreckan by sea kayak.

The ebb was still running fast through the Corryvreckan and impeding our westward progress so we stopped for a rest below this old cottage on the SE of Scarba...where we took our second luncheon.


The mist was glowering low on the hills as we entered the Corryvreckan against the last of the ebb. A west wind had picked up and it is always a worry what conditions may lie outside. The transit of the Corryvreckan is about 5km so you will not get the whole way through at slack water, not that there is a great deal of slack anyway!


We made steady progress but


...as we passed the site of the great submarine pinnacle of rock, which extends up from deep within the great rock trench of the Gulf, the waters started moving uneasily and with increasing restlessness. It is a grim place and it fills insignificant kayakers with awe.


Then as we approached the western end, the mist began to clear.


Our mood changed as we saw that outside the Gulf the winds were still light....


...and there was only a moderate swell.

Then we were through but did we have a thirst?


10/05/2008

Waiting for the ebb in the Corryvreckan.

We entered the great gulf of Corryvreckan just before slack water. There was no swell and we had never seen the SW of Scarba in such calm conditions.


Jennifer tried to look under the water to see if she could see the Old Hag that stirs the Corryvreckan but the witch must have been scared of Jennifer's goldfish hat.


Even at slack water there was some stirring as we paddled over the submarine pinnacle that throws up the "whirlpool".


Even Phil had found the whole experience somewhat anticlimactic, so we decided to stop for an evening meal...


...on a lovely cobbled beach on the NE tip of Jura.


We had a grandstand view of the Corryvreckan as we consumed our victuals and washed them down with a fine malt or two. We would now wait until the ebb had built up sufficiently for a little fun...

In the wake of the dead: a sea kayaking pilgrimage to Oronsay and Colonsay via Jura.

For those who would like to follow the thread of this great trip to Oronsay and Colonsay via Jura from start to finish, I hope this index will be useful. We launched from Carsaig Bay NR735877. We paddled 136km over four days. On the outward trip we portaged the 2km over the Jura isthmus from Tarbert Bay in the east to Loch Tarbert in the west. We returned through the Corryvreckan.

Read Ian's trip summary here.

Day 1 Carsaig Bay, Argyll mainland to Glenbatrick Bay, Jura: 26km

Blog 1 Paddling and portaging in the wake of the dead.

Blog 2 Enchanted again by the remote west coast of Jura.

Day 2 Glenbatrick Bay, Jura to Kiloran Bay, Colonsay: 41km.

Blog 3 You may rue the day you meet the giant bothy rat and adders of Ruantallain.

Blog 4 Landfall in an Oronsay midden.

Blog 5 Why sea kayakers should consider carrying a PLB, unless they are full sibling to an ostrich.

Blog 6 Our sea kayaking pilgrimage comes to a peaceful end in Oronsay Priory.

Blog 7 Between a rock and a hard place on the wild west cost of Colonsay.

Blog 8 Breaking the spell of the Cailleach Uragaig on the NW coast of Colonsay.

Blog 9 Two schools of seakayaking campers, a tattie howkin' stick and a Colonsay sunset.

Day 3 Kiloran Bay, Colondsay to Shian Bay Jura: 30km.

Blog 10 A washed up whale and an adequate supply of washed up wood on the machair of north Colonsay.

Blog 11 Absolute consensus, armadas, wrecks and goats all end up at Balnahard Beach.

Blog 12 A cuckoo in every cove, flapping sails and giant wings on the NE coast of Colonsay.

Blog 13 Cake, beer and wind in Scalasaig harbour, Colonsay.

Blog 14 Perfect paddle sailing past the Paps of Jura.

Blog 15 Hebridean boules on the machair of Jura.

Blog 16 Baked Bramley apples at a Shian Bay Sunset.

Day 4 Shian Bay, Jura to Carsaig Bay, Argyll mainland: 40km.

Blog 17 A cold second breakfast at dead end beach, Jura

Blog 18 Waiting for the Corryvreckan tide at Glengarrisdale.

Blog 19 The skulls of Glengarrisdale, Jura.

Blog 20 A traverse of the Gulf of Corryvreckan disturbed only by a shoal of fish.

Blog 21 Taking a break at Red Rock.

Blog 22 End of day in Carsaig Bay.

Postscript

If you would prefer not to paddle the Corryvreckan in the conditions in this photo, you can time your traverse for slack water:

The west going flood begins +0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover)  at 7 to 8 knots at springs and +0515 HW Oban (-0015 HW Dover) at neaps.

The east going ebb begins -0145 HW Oban (+0515 HW Dover) up to 8 knots at springs and -0100 HW Oban (+0600 HW Dover) at neaps.

The time changes by 6.5 minutes each day between springs and neaps. The constant between HW Dover and HW Oban does vary, so most accurate times are calculated by using HW Oban times (though not if you have calculated HW Oban indirectly from HW Dover!!).

Slack water lasts up to 30 minutes at neaps. At springs there is no real slack, there is always water moving about somewhere in the Corry. These times are pretty good as long as there is high pressure. Low pressure and wind can alter timing considerably.