Better Days in Loch Leven!

Back at the end of February, when I was still able to walk, Tony and I drove with our families to the excellent Isles of Glencoe hotel on the shores of Loch Leven. We were bound for the Scottish Canoe Association, luxury weekend.


The hotel is most conveniently situated on a little peninsula that juts into Loch Leven and was once the spoil tip of the Ballachulish slate quarries. A railway from Oban was constructed in 1903 and terminated here at the quarries. In the 1950's I remember seeing steam engines on this line but it closed in 1966 and all that remains is a solitary signal. The line of the railway is being used to create a new coastal cycle and walk way.


I am always on the lookout for boats that have seen better days and this one is an absolute cracker! Clearly, although the owner may not have been very good at parking the thing, he (and I assume it was a he) was quite handy with a welding torch!

27/02/2009

Campbeltown to Ardrossan via the Mull of Kintyre using a ferry and a portage.

This was a 200km 6 day trip taking the ferry from Ardrossan to Campbeltown then kayaking round the Mull of Kintyre to the surf beaches of Machrihanish and the Hebridean isles of Cara and Gigha before returning to the Clyde by West Loch Tarbert and portaging across the Kintyre peninsula to East Loch Tarbert in the Firth of Clyde. We then returned to Ardrossan via the mouth of Loch Fyne and the Firth of Clyde islands of Inchmarnock, Bute and Little Cumbrae.

Day 1. East coast of Kintyre

Single ticket to Campbeltown please.

A four pointed cross on a two pointed island.

A Bastard of a headwind and a Bloody rock..

An Art Deco landmark in the twilight at the Mull of Kintyre.

Day 2. Mull of Kintyre to Cara.

An early start for the Mull of Kintyre.

All quiet at the End of the World.

It's the Dug's Lugs (if not bollocks) at the Mull of Kintyre!

The Mull of Kintyre west coast... a sailors' graveyard.

Three angry birders of Machrihanish.

Surf's up but coal's run out at Machrihanish Bay.

Kintyre ports not much good in a storm.

Cloud watching on a long crossing to Cara.

The Brownie of Cara; the correct way to greet him.

Cara sunset.

Day 3. Cara and Gigha east coast.

Mistaken location of St Fionnlugh's chapel, Cara?

A tale of goat bhuna, bluebells, albinos and a Brownie.

The Mull of Cara.

The great voyage from Cara to Gigha!

Two lobsters, a crab, a haddock, countless langoustines and a couple of circumnavigations on Gigha.

A postprandial snooze on Gigha.

Baked potatoes at sundown on Cara.

The glory of a Hebridean sunset.

Day 4. Cara and Gigha west coast.

We had a swell time on Cara.

The Mull and mimetoliths of Cara.

The Boathouse, Gigha.

Anchor Rock, Gigha.

Farewell Cara, hello Jura.

The antithesis of headland to headland paddling.

The great quartz vein of Grob Bagh, Gigha.

The heat of a June day on the machair of Gigha.

The landing place of the spectre, Gigha.

The great rock wall of Cnoc Loisgte, Gigha.

Trouble at the mill on Gigha.

Better Days #15, on Gigha

End of a long day on Gigha.

Light my fire, on Gigha.

Living the dream of the Hebridean Isles on Gigha.

We were not alone on Gigha.

Day 5. Gigha to Ardlamont in the Firth of Clyde.

Much toing and froing on the crossing to West Loch Tarbert.

Daisies , shells, pottery and a marble at Dunskeig Bay.

The ferries of West Loch Tarbert.

A fair wind in West Loch Tarbert.

A busy waterway at Kennacraig.

A tale of two islands, one ferry and two captains.

Time for a sharp exit at West Loch Tarbert Pier.

Better Days #16 in West Loch Tarbert.

Tidal planning on an (unarmed) portage from West Loch Tarbert to East Loch Tarbert.

Sea kayaking again in East Loch Tarbert.

Lost buoys and a green ferry in East Loch Tarbert.

Paddle sailing away in the clear air at the end of a long day.

Tired kayakers and concrete sleepers at Kilbride Bay.

Saved by a sundowner in Kilbride Bay.

A peaceful night alone on Ardlamont?

Baked potatoes and bandits in Ardlamont.

Day 6. Ardlamont to Ardrossan via Inchmarnock, Bute and Little Cumbrae.

Between a rock and a contrail on Ardlamont.

Kylie the lonely dolphin: a tale of anthropomorphism and anthropology at Ardlamont and the West Kyle buoy.

Two luncheons, a queen, a saint and a cow on the fair isle of Inchmarnock.

All quiet on the Sound of Bute.

Some fishy goings on in the Sound of Bute.

Dun paddling at Dunagoil.

A turbulent past but all calm now as we made our way past Garroch Head.

The clarity of light and reflected clouds at Little Cumbrae.

A small matter of the Trade Descriptions Act as we set foot on the sands of Ayrshire.

Saved by a sundowner off Ardrossan.

All washed up at Ardrossan South Beach.

Better Days #15, on Gigha

We found this sad old wooden clinker rowing boat in the undergrowth above the beach at Port an Duin on Gigha. I rather liked the look of her lines but sadly she has seen Better Days.

We came to Kames in the Kyles of Bute.

 Rounding Ardlamont Point, we left Loch Fyne and came to the sheltered waters of the Kyles of Bute.

Unlike the rugged west coast of the Cowal peninsula, the countryside was much gentler, fertile farms and woodlands came right down to the shore.

We arrived at the settlement of Kames and  a large sign caught our attention...

...so we decided to land and investigate further.

On the way up to the entrance to the Kames Hotel we passed this little rowing boat that had clearly seen better days...

 ...indeed these days were clearly illustrated in this mural on the hotel wall. By the looks of things, the fishing was better then too!

We entered the public bar and were warmly welcomed despite our sea kayaking attire. The Guinness was excellent and most welcome.

As a warning to those seafarers who might be tempted to indulge in one pint too many, these two photos on the bar wall...

...caught my eye, a splendid subliminal warning!

Anyway, the Kames Hotel proved to be a truly excellent sea kayaking pub, conveniently situated and well worth coming to!

Castle Stalker and the quest for the Holy Grails of Port Appin.

On the fourth day of our winter trip we drove from Ballachuilish to Port Appin further down Loch Linnhe. We got parked right next to the beach access but in summer parking here is not easy.  Port Appin has been the ferry port to the island of Lismore for at least 250 years. The Lismore is the current passenger ferry.

We launched beside the Pier House Hotel. Their Grand Seafood platter for two sells for and eye and mouth watering £85. We decided to dine alfresco rather than order the Holy Grail of sea food platters.

This old boat on the shore has seen better days.

Port Appin was under thick grey cloud but both to the north and south there was a hint of winter  sunshine.

The south going ebb had already started so we decided to paddle north to explore while there was still water,

Our first destination was the Sgeir Bhuidhe light. This is a modern recreation of the original late 19th century light. In 2001 it was planned to replace the old light with a modern rectangular box. Locals were upset that their local Holy Grail of lighthouses would be no more and the old light was painted to look like Mr Blobby in protest. Sense prevailed and this modern light is a passable copy of the...

 ...original, which certainly looks a lot better than a rectangular box. The original light's lantern house is now a museum in the village.

 A little SE breeze got up which helped with the paddle against the ebb tide which was now poring out of ...

...Loch Laich. Standing on an islet in the mouth of the Loch, Castle Stalker enjoyed a near impregnable position.The Gaelic name was Caisteal na Stalcaire. The Gaelic language is very economical with words and so each can have several meanings. Stalcaire means:

A One that hobbles or walks awkwardly.
B Dresser of hooks.
C Starch.
D Blockhead.
E Hunter, fowler, deer-stalker.
F Gazer, starer.
G Arrow-maker.
H Pacing-horse.
I  Bully.
J Robust fellow.
K None of the above.

So take your pick!

Castle Stalker was built by the Stewarts of Appin in the 1440s.

Over the years it changed hands with the Campbells several times and on one occasion changed ownership as a result of a bet. Perhaps Castle Blockhead is the right interpretation!

It was restored by a descendant of the Stewarts between 1965 and 1975. It achieved more recent fame as "Castle Aargh" in Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

"Here may be found the last words of Joseph of Arimathea:"

"'He who is valiant and pure of spirit..may find the Holy Grail.in the Castle of Aaargh."'

The Stalker logo is made from an old fisherman's anchor and chain.

Ian and I could not resist photographing it from a variety of angles.

We made our way up steep slippy rocks to...

...the grass below the castle's two entrance doors.

This is the view from the castle. In 1745 it was held by the Campbells and besieged by the Stewarts. The attackers could not get their cannon close enough  and the cannon balls bounced...

 ...harmlessly off the walls. We made our way up to the main entrance to the castle living accommodation. There is a well worn coat of arms above the door. Whether this was weather worn or scrubbed away by successive owners is not known.

 This is not the original door but is well in keeping with the castle.

 The ground floor door gives access to three cellars and a prison cell.

 Not having found the Holy Grail, we decided to set off from...

...Castle Stalker and continue our voyage...

 ...the Sound of Shuna to Shuna Island.

A swarm of dykes at Kildonan.

In view of the mid day forecast on 23rd May we decided not to risk paddling across the south end of the Kilbrannan Sound to Davaar Island on the 24th. The prospect of a 20km open crossing in F4-5 increasing 6 north wind was not very appealing to us. Our next planned camp site was to be the SW point of Arran some 9km further on round Bennan Head. Bennan Head can be a rough place as the tide close in (the so called Black Tide) continuously flows east and when it meets the main west going ebb things get a bit stirred up. Pladda is only 700m north to south yet the tide on the north turns 2 hours before the tide turns on the south.

 We had a decision to make press on before the tidal window closed round Bennan Head or...

... sit back and enjoy the view aided by some sports recovery drinks.and

 ...steak sandwiches at the excellent Kildonan Hotel. Having missed the tidal window and enjoyed lunch so much, we booked a table for our evening meal. We booked a night at the Seal Shore camp site next door to the hotel. As commercial sites go Seal Shore is very good. It easily accessible from the sea, the toilets are very clean and there is plentiful hot water. It is mainly used by couples and young families and even though it was a bank holiday weekend all was quiet by 10:30pm. The camp site owners also support a charitable educational project in the Gambia.

However, although the camp site covers a large area of well mown grass, we discovered that other campers like to be really close. After we had pitched our tents other campers pitched theirs so close that guy lines crossed and Ian even suggested to one camper that he could always just use one of Ian's pegs!

On previous occasions I have stayed here I have pitched my tent on a bit of ground outside the main camping area above the shore. This would probably have been better. However, we met some nice people on the site including a young family who were island hopping in a restored 1974 VW camper van.

 Once we had pitched the tents we decided to walk along the Kildonan shore. This old  fishing boat has seen better days.

 The flag irises were already out on Arran....

 ...they normally arrive about the same time as the midges.

On the raised beach at Kildonan Shore you will find this beautiful carved sandstone bench. The inscription reads "Does the sound of the sea end at the shore or in the hearts of those who listen?"

From the raised beach there is a view of the many basalt dykes that radiate out from the south shore of Arran. This swarm of dykes from the volcanic activity in the north of Arran broke through lines of weakness in the existing sedimentary rocks. These have now been eroded away leaving the harder basalt dykes standing above the main beach level. The south end of Arran is one of the best examples of a swarm of dykes in the world. It was a warm afternoon, we were rather hot and for some reason this geological wonder made Ian think of his favourite cup of tea.

This Bing Maps view shows just a tiny fraction of the Kildonan dyke swarm, which extends for 13 km of the south Arran coastline. When you do a Google search on a small place you usually end up with a list like "Estate agents in Brigadoon, PPI claims in Brigadoon, Plumbers in Brigadoon or Meet XXXX in Brigadoon". However, if you do this for Kildonan, you get "A swarm of dykes in Kildonan".

This lichen covered dyke even has a window through...

...which I photographed the dawn on a previous visit.

 Behind the beach this waterfall cascaded over the sandstone cliffs.

There was plenty of drift wood on this beach including this oak trunk with...

 ...its wonderful bark. For a moment I wished we were wild camping here but we were looking forward to dinner in the Kildonan Hotel.

This was the view as we were enjoying the starter of scallops and black pudding.in the dining room. The MV Isle of Arran ferry was making her way out to Campbeltown passing between Pladda with its lighthouse and Ailsa Craig..

 Before heading to the tents for the night we went down to check the boats but all was well as the sun slipped away behind the dark and brooding outline of Bennan Head, on our intended route in the morning...