Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Stags on the high tops joined us in roars of approval.

Just as we arrived at Glenaladale, the estate boat Fionn Aladail (Fair Aladale) left the rickety wooden jetty with a shooting party aboard. Her helmsman courteously kept the engine revs down until they were well past us. We were right in the middle of the Glenaladale red deer stag shooting season.

As we paddled past the delta of the Aladale river the glen stretched away into the distance then above...

...the steep slopes of Croit Bheinn 661m (the hunchbacked hill), we caught sight of a magnificent golden eagle soaring in the updraft above the mountain side.


South of Glenaladale the woodland became even denser with trees clinging to the steep slopes from shore level up to the crags high above us.

 
As we neared Gaskan we came across a delightful...

...wooded isle called Eileen Comhlach.

Its name could be isle of the meeting place, fellow warrior or suckling pig.  Several lochs have islands where warring chieftans met without fear of being ambushed by each other's men.


We drifted for some time in the lee of the little isle hoping that it would be highlighted against the dark hills behind by a blink of low sunshine.

Our patience was rewarded.

This little tree will need to have much patience to grow tall as its roots clutch only bare rock on the loch shore.

By now the sun was sinking fast and the shadows were lengthening. We had an idea of where to camp based on a previous trip but we had met a couple of open canoeists who had camped there the previous evening and found their night disturbed by a herd of cattle.

I had in mind an alternative but had never landed there. We decided to detour to my back-up but knew that if it was not suitable we would be setting up tents in the dark at our original destination.

As the sun sank below the clouds we were bathed in a beautiful light.

Although we had a fair way to go...

...we could not help but stop and savour the beauty of Loch Shiel at Sunset.

The low sun really turned up the vibrance of the autumn colours.

But we needed to press on, light was fading fast we were now committed to camp "B". By now the landscape ahead was of low gently rolling hills and...

...we soon left the high mountains...

...in our wakes.

We arrived at our destination, camp "B", at sunset. After a quick check we decided it would be ideal. I went for a quick swim to freshen up before the warming rays sank below the horizon.

After getting the tents up we quickly gathered some firewood before darkness fell.

We cooked our meal by our fire's flickering flames then afterwards baked potatoes for afters which we enjoyed with butter and salt.

Then Ian surprised us with poached pears in brandy for second afters. It seemed that the stags on the high tops joined us in roars of approval. 

Tuesday, February 14, 2017

So many views in Loch Shiel, you had better take a seat!

As we paddled SW down Loch Shiel, the sun began to...

 ...occasionally break through the cloud creating ever changing patterns of light and shade on the crags above and...

 ...the forests below.

 Although there are many attractive shingle beaches the camping behind some of them is difficult due to bog and tussocky grass and we intended getting well down the loch before being stopped by nightfall about 6pm.

Glenfinnan was now well behind us and we...

 ...entered a great amphitheatre in the mountains which became...

 ...wilder and wilder. The roaring of rutting red deer stags echoed round the high glens a sound truly evocative of autumn in Scotland.

The only sign of the hand of man was a lumber track which wound its way round the headlands on the SE shore but there was no sign of vehicles or people.

We enjoyed each other's company as...

 ...we shared this magnificent...

 ...wilderness of rocky summits which...

 ...tumbled down to deciduous forests which...

 ...clothed the north west shore in...

...superb autumn colours.

 Every so often we would stop and turn to look...

 ...back the way we had come.

Shadows from the clouds were racing across the hillsides, driven by the increasing wind.

As we approached the wild delta at the mouth of the river which flows into Loch Shiel from Glen Aladale, we found this somewhat incongruously but gloriously situated chair. 

For the full stereo vision experience read Ian's account here...

Monday, February 13, 2017

Progress down Loch Shiel was impeded by frequent photo opportunities.

 As we made our way SW down Loch Shiel the sun broke though and despite it being mid October the temperature soared.

 Due to glaciation the west coast of Scotland is riven by many U shaped valleys which were cut by glaciers moving to the SW where the melted into the sea. Some of these valleys are flooded by sea water and some by fresh water but the bodies of water are both called lochs.

 So though our progress was slow, not only were we following the route of a long gone glacier we were making considerably faster progress than it had done.

The scenery in Loch Shiel is truly stunning.

The sunlight enhanced the shades of autumn and our progress was frequently impeded by...

 ...photographic opportunities or...

 ...by stunning shingle beaches where we stopped to...

 ...sit on a log under the shade of a great Scots pine and admired the dramatic mountains...

...which towered far above. I even went in for a swim but the water molecules had clearly retained a memory of the Ice Age.

For the full stereo vision experience read Ian's account here...