Colonsay to Jura by sea kayak

Sadly, it was now time to take our leave of Colonsay. We had our last supper on one of her superlative beaches on the SE coast. The day was getting on, it was now about 2hrs 30minutes to sunset. We had paddled only 21km, since setting off in the morning, and still had a 15km crossing to our destination, at the mouth of West Loch Tarbert on Jura. It looked like we would be setting up camp in the dark again.


At first we paddled on flat water, while we were still in the lee of Colonsay. The hills of Islay and Jura seemed a long way away.


The wind and swell picked up as we left the shelter of the Oronsay reefs and became exposed to the open Atlanic ocean with a force four westerly and swells. I had to put my camera away for most of the crossing.


Fortunately, the wind began to drop, with the setting sun, as we made our final approach to the dramatic coast of Jura. The summits of her Paps were covered with a modesty blanket of cloud.

The superlative beaches of Colonsay

The beaches of SE Colonsay, like this one at Rubha Dubh, are simply stunning.


This is Traigh an Eacaill (Cable Bay).


We then found Port a' Chapuill...


...and decided we had to explore some of its many coves.


I went for a swim at this one but the water was not exactly warm.


In 1977, Scottish Natural Heritage commissioned a survey of the beaches in the Scottish Highlands and Islands. The whole area is noted for the beauty of its beaches. Over 250 beaches were assessed for scenic quality on a scale of 1 to 3 for the beach itself, its setting, the view into the beach and, finally, the view out from the beach. Only 20 beaches scored 12 or 11.

Four out of these 20 superlative beaches are to be found on Colonsay and Oronsay...


Ritchie, W. and Mather. A.S. (1977). The beaches of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland.
Commissioned by the Countryside Commission for Scotland 1977. Reprinted 2005 by
Scottish Natural Heritage as Commissioned Report No. 048.

Gathering nuts on Colonsay

The day was by now pressing on so we reluctantly left the shelter of Scalasaig's little Port na Feamainn (seaweed harbour). We rounded the low headland of Rubha Dubh with its automatic lighthouse. It flashes every 10 seconds showing a white light to the east and a red light to the north.


We now entered Loch Staosnaig and paddled round Eilean Staosnaig at its head. Gentle hills rolled down to a raised beach which is now covered by farm land. It looks such an unspoiled scene but it was once the scene of food processing on an industrial scale! These white sands have been a landing point for our ancestors for at least 9,000 years.


In 1994 an archaeological dig on the raised beach revealed a large (4.5m diameter) pit, which was full of burned hazel nut shells.


In 2001 Mithen et al published a paper in which they dated the shells to approximately 9000 years ago. They also studied pollen from sediments in a nearby loch and discovered that the hazel nut pollen had all but disappeared over one season. It appears that our hunter/gatherer, Mesolithic ancestors had arrived on Colonsay and cut down the hazel trees, gathered all the nuts then processed them by roasting in this pit.


This is a diagram of how the pit would have been used.

Reference:
Plant Use in the Mesolithic: Evidence from Staosnaig, Isle of Colonsay, Scotland
Steven Mithen, Nyree Finlay, Wendy Carruthers, Stephen Carter and Patrick Ashmore, Journal of Archaeological ScienceVolume 28, Issue 3, March 2001, Pages 223-234

Better days on Colonsay...

A fine old wooden, clinker built, fishing boat lies well above the HW mark in Scalasaig harbour. She is the Eythorne I like old wooden boats. At least Eythorne still has her name and an old tarpaulin keeping the rain out. I do hope her hull lifts to the Atlantic swells once again.

"The kayaker's have arrived!"

We arrived at Scalasaig with every intention of making a cultural visit, inspecting ancient crosses and buildings. However, we are easily diverted and our boots had barely dried before we came across this sign for May MacKinnon's Pantry! Not only that this Pantry was licenced!


May and her assistant wondered if we had come from one of the (large) yachts which had dropped anchor of the pier.

"Actually we have come in kayaks."

"Oh you must be the canoeists that have come all the way from Islay!"

Word travels fast in these parts!


Well we were hungry and thirsty, so we ordered bowl-fulls of home made soup (potato and leek) and home made bread. As this was second luncheon, we added a variety of pastries including some excellent venison pasties! May wondered if we would like a cup of tea with our pasties but the sun was by now well over the yardarm, so we decided to wash it all down with some local Colonsay Ale.


Phil wondered if this might affect his paddling abilities but we quickly reassured him that it would not, if consumed in moderation, taken with some food and followed by a siesta!


"What do you think of the beer David?"

We did not forget to take notes of our experience and after careful consideration, the staff of seakayakphoto.com award May's Pantry 12/10 as a sea kayaking pub!

After a most pleasant afternoon sojourn in May's Pantry, we made our way slowly back down to the kayaks. We were met by some tourists and a lovely young couple who worked at the hotel. All wanted to know more about these strange craft that had carried us to Colonsay over an open ocean, without recourse to the ferry!

As they say in Scalasaig, "The kayakers have arrived!"

Rockpool Alaw Bach in Carbonite 2000

At the Scottish Canoe show in Perth, I saw a very interesting kayak on the Kari-Tek stand. It was a shiny Rockpool Alaw Bach, though it lacked the glitter finish. Closer inspection showed that it was made out of a moulded material called Carbonite 2000 that is used in the aircraft industry. This is a thermoformed trilaminate of ABS plastic and acrylic. It gives a stiff, light hull with a high degree of UV, impact and abrasion resistance. It is said to be easily repairable but I do not have details. Kayaks in Carbonite 2000 are likely to be up to 20% cheaper than traditional, hand lay up, GRP composite Kayaks. Eddyline in the USA first introduced sea kayaks in this material in 1996.


The moulding machines are ultra expensive but the labour cost in producing each kayak is low. Clearly the accuracy with which the mould reproduces the original design will be paramount to the performance of these kayaks but this looks like a glimpse of the future for UK sea kayaks.


Given Mike Webb's acknowledged guru status in the World of GRP kayaks, I think it very significant that Rockpool, of all British manufacturers, was showing a kayak in Carbonite 2000. I understand that other UK manufacturers, like P&H and Valley, are also seriously considering this production method.

Glassard and a wooly welcome to Scalasaig, Colonsay

We continued SE along Colonsay's coast line after leaving the abandoned fishing village of Riasg Buidhe. We came upon the planned township of Glassard (Glas Aird) to which, the former residents of Riasg Buidhe moved. Each new croft house had its own hay meadow and the men folk were able to use bigger fishing boats which were kept in nearby Scalasaig harbour.

A recent survey showed that Colonsay had 89 houses of which, 39 were holiday homes. Some of the Glassard crofts are now holiday homes or lets and gradually the old family links to Riasg Buidhe are being lost. Hay was last cut in Glassard over 15 years ago and now the meadows, with their profusion of wild flowers, are being invaded by bracken.


It was nearing time for second luncheon and we now approached the capital of Colonsay, Scalasaig, with some anticipation.


We paddled between the sheltering arms of Scalasaig's harbour and landed at a little beach at its head. The only fishing vessel currently registered with its home port as Colonsay is CN183 Sea Spray. She is a 7m wooden creel fisher built in 1960. You can just see her red hull at the back of the line of moored boats.


We walked up towards the main road and prepared to meet the locals. Would there be any formalities attached with our arrival? Would carnets need to be stamped?

We were met by a small welcoming committee, who were sheltering in the shade of what we presumed to be the custom house. They appeared to be taking a siesta, so we moved forward slowly to pass. Their leader cast a disdainful eye over our salt encrusted Goretex paddling gear but, without comment, slowly stood aside to let us through.

We had arrived in Scalasaig!