Eclipsed by the moon and retinal scarring on the Sound of Arisaig.

On the third day of our circumnavigation of the lands of Moidart we awoke early after a warm and comfortable night in the Glenuig Inn.

 Outside was breezy, grey and cold what had possessed us to have an early breakfast and be...

 ...on the water for 0830?

 It was not just us. Steve and Chris from the Inn joined us as well!

This was the morning of 20th March 2015 when the eclipse of the sun  was expected! We wanted to see it from the water but...

...things did not look too promising. Using local knowledge Steve suggested paddling straight into the NW wind to get away from the mountain Roshven which was throwing up the clouds.

At first this seemed to be a good plan as there was a hint of sunlight ahead on the  hill sides of Eigg. This was taken at 09:28am some 6 minutes before the maximum eclipse at 09:34.

This was taken at 09:34 at the point of maximum eclipse. It was an eerie feeling being on the water when it should have been getting lighter not darker. Note how the slow shutter speed caused by lack of light has blurred the waves and spray.

It was at this point that I noticed that there were some hints of brightness back the way we had come. So we turned our bows to face the entrance to loch Ailort and Ian raised Steve on the VHF on our prearranged channel 72 and told him where we were headed.

I launched the sail and used it to broad reach towards the bright patches. Steve who had not seen a Flat Earth Kayak sail in action before, made this comment afterwards "We saw your sail up as you raced off downwind on a broad reach, chased by your rooster tail!! Does the hull get hot at that speed? Couldn't believe how quickly you put clear water between us!!"  He has now  borrowed one of my sails...

Meanwhile the others ran directly downwind as I drew towards the ever dwindling patch of bright water.

Amazingly I got this shot at 09:56 through a thinning of the clouds. Despite the bouncy conditions, I wanted the best shot so I got the Canon 5D mk3 out and took three quick shots. This one was the best but I now have three images of the eclipse burned on my retinas, I just need to close my eyes and there they are...who needs photos!

Turning full circle at Smirisary with the sun on our backs all day.

 We continued north past the...

 ...ancient stratified rocks of Smirisary.

 We reached the most northerly point of our day at Rubha Ghead a' Leighe where...

 ...we turned towards the east, into the Sound of Arisaig. The distant bulk of mighty Roshven was turning pink with alpenglow.

The many crofts of Smirisary were sited on infertile land with little access to the sea. The inhabitants were cleared here by former estate owners who wanted the better land for sheep and deer. Although still remote by today's standards, Smirisary was at one time almost inaccessible. The road into Glenuig from the Fort William/Mallaig road was not built until 1966 and even then it was still a footpath from Glenuig to Smirisary! "The Spade among the Rushes" by Margaret Leigh describes living as a crofter in Smirisary in the 1940's and makes an insightful and enjoyable read.

 During our long day of travelling west, north and then then east, the sun had followed behind us so we enjoyed...

 ...the constant views like this one of Samalaman Island and Samalaman Bay without being dazzled.

The big house at Samalaman makes quite a contrast with the crofts.

 Gulls were pairing up for nesting on Samalaman Island as we passed between it and...

 ...the entrance to the sheltered bay.

 At the final wooded headland we had one final turn to make. For a brief time...

 ...we turned south into Glenuig Bay, past the public jetty, to our final destination...

...the Glenuig Inn. We arrived at just after sunset at high water so did not even have to carry the boats very far. We intended to stay the night and the first thing we did was to have a hot shower in our dry suits in Steve's excellent sea kayakers' washing and drying facilities!

After changing we made our way into the inn where we received a warm welcome and ordered pints of real frothy sports recovery drinks and bowls of prawn tails in garlic butter! From our early start at our camp site on the shore of Loch Shiel it had been an incredible day. One which we each agreed was one of the best sea kayaking days ever but our journey round the lands of Moidart was not over yet!

From one paradise to another.

We left the delights of Shoe Bay on Eilean Shona and paddled the short distance to the mouth of the South Channel of Loch Moidart. We turned north up the exposed west coast of Eilean Shona. Now we were well and truly on the open sea, what a contrast to the confines of Loch Shiel!

 At first we had a little wind to assist us but it soon died away leaving...

 ...an uneven slop as...

 ...we paddled north.

 We kept a respectful distance from the headlands as there was still a heavy swell.

 Then we cleared the north end of Eilean Shona and paddled across...

...the wide mouth of the North Channel of Loch Moidart.

This channel connects to the south channel through narrows which stretched away as far as the eye could see.

As we drew closer we could just make out a wisp of smoke coming from one of the old cottages on the track to Baramore.

 Then we saw the delights of another white shell sand beach at Port Achadh an Aonaich.

 Although we had not come far from Shoe Bay it seemed churlish not to stop at such a beautiful spot.

 We climbed to the machair above the beach and enjoyed the wonderful vista to...

 ..the south from whence we had come and to...

 ...the north where we were heading.

As the sun swung inexorably  round we had to drag ourselves away from this wonderful spot.

Shoe Bay, Eilean Shona.

 At the west end of Eilean Shona when the tide is in there is a passageway behind some reefs.

 As you become enclosed by the rocky walls the water shallows and...

 turns green then turquoise

 At the head of the channel a turn to the right reveals...

 ...one of the most picturesque sandy coves on the Scottish west coast..

 Though it bis not named on any map...

 ...those in the know call it Shoe Bay because as you go higher up the beach it becomes very soft and you are at risk of loosing your shoes!

 It was the most pleasant place to stop for an extended luncheon which...

...we enjoyed with a snifter of Jura malt overlooking the beauty of Moidart and the distant Ardnamurchan peninsula.

Mariners once more, on Loch Moidart.

We relaunched into the sea waters of Loch Moidart below...

 ...the falls in the River Shiel. Partly as penance for portaging we played for a bit breaking in and out of the jet of water which was pouring into the loch from the cascade.

 To our right were the houses of the Lochshiel Estate and...

...to our left a great spit of sand and shingle which has been brought down the River Shiel  and deposited here but...

 ...what really held our attention was straight ahead...

 ...the wonderfully situated Tioram Castle sitting on its tidal island. Once we cleared the spit we hoisted our sails for a beat down the loch to its mouth. I used the forward fin in the Aries with devastating effect as the others dropped away downwind.

 We were heading for the south shore of Eilean Shona as a counter eddy meant we did not have to plug  against the incoming tide in mid channel.

 We were not the only ones heading west. This couple in a Canadian canoe made good progress in the shelter of the inner loch but as soon as they hit the tide and wind they fell far behind.

 Meanwhile we were revelling in being back on the sea and before long had reached...

...the west end of rugged Eilean Shona. At one time it was scattered by little communities now long gone. Can you spot this house?