The ferries of West Loch Tarbert.

No sooner had we entered West Loch Tarbert than we came across a long stone pier.

This is the remains of the Portachoillan ferry, which was a passenger ferry across the mouth of the loch to Ardpatrick on the west side.

It was operated by a rowing boat from at least the 19th century until it ceased in the 1930's. The 1856 Admiralty chart (surveyed in 1849) clearly marks it.

 After leaving Portachoillan we left the open sea behind us and entered...

 ...the wooded confines of West Loch Tarbert.

 We chose to paddle in very shallow water as the loch is very narrow and...

 ...a rumble of engines behind us announced...

 ...the return of the MV Finlaggan. We knew we were safe in the shallow water. Although the loch is 700m wide at this point, the deep water channel is only 130m wide, so the ferries do not have much room.

Although West Loch Tarbert is sometimes busy with ferry traffic, the main road to Campbelltown does not follow the shore and so it is mostly a quiet and very beautiful location for sea kayaking. The ferry passed  the ancient walls of Dunsmore castle on the north side of the loch . The tower house is now a ruin but it was the seat of the McMillan clan chiefs in the 17th and 18th centuries.

The MV Finlaggan soon passed by on its way to Kennacraig and we were left to enjoy the loch in peace again.

Daisies , shells, pottery and a marble at Dunskeig Bay.

By the time we pulled our kayaks up the fair strand of Dunskeig Bay it was after 9:30am and way past breakfast time so we set...

 ...our stoves up on the rocks at the edge of the beach and cooked up a three course first breakfast. Favourite course was bacon, egg, tomato and edam cheese in a tortilla wrap. While we sat and enjoyed some postprandial sunshine, Jennifer went scavenging along the shore line.

She returned with a sting winkle, a periwinkle, a cowrie, a bit of an oyster shell, a variety of weathered pottery fragments and a marble!

After breakfast I enjoyed  a stroll on the daisy flecked machair that backs the shore and enjoyed...

...distant views to Gigha, Islay and Jura.

Much toing and froing on the crossing to West Loch Tarbert.

We set off across the Sound of Gigha towards the Kintyre mainland in glassy calm conditions but it is not always like this...

...as this photo, taken in the same place 6 yearrs previously (2007), shows all too clearly. Strong tides, shallow sea and wind against tide can soon rustle up some rough conditions.

 Although it was calm, our route lay along the course of the Islay ferries, the ...

 ...MV Flaggan passed on her way out and the...

 ...MV Hebridean Isles passed us on her way in to Kennacraig.  We kept well to the south of the ferries and...

...after a 10km crossing we entered the mouth of West Loch Tarbert.

We made landfall at the head of Dunskeig Bay. Dun Skeig hill towers above the bay and on its summit lie the remains of 3 successive hill forts or duns.

As we unpacked our breakfast things the MV Hebridean Isles made its way back out of the narrow entrance to West Loch Tarbert.

We were not alone on Gigha.

We awoke to a beautiful morning on Gigha but unfortunately we were not alone. We had been joined by billions of midges who enjoyed breakfast on us.

 So we missed our own breakfasts and hurriedly broke camp and loaded the boats.

 It was such a relief to be out on the cool midge free water.

In the early morning sunshine, we paddled to the north end of Gigha where we caught sight of our next destination. The mouth of West Loch Tarbert was highlighted by the silhouette of the morning ferry to Islay, the MV Finlaggan.

Living the dream of the Hebridean Isles on Gigha.

Due to the presence of an amphidromic point between Islay and the Mull of Kintyre, the mean spring tidal range on the west coast of Gigha is only about 1m so we did not ...

 ...need to pull the kayaks very far up the beach before settling down to...

 ...enjoy the sunset.

We gazed wistfully at the islands on the horizon, Islay to the west and Jura to the north west and...

...,as the midge attack lessened,  made plans to visit Islay in July. At the back of my mind I suspected this might be wishful thinking, After 4 days of paddling my shoulder was giving me real concern. I knew I would have to go and see about it on my return.

 Ever so gradually the day faded away over Islay and...

...Jura but it was still light when we went to bed about midnight. We may have dreamed of Hebridean Isles but on this trip we were living the dream!

Light my fire, on Gigha.

Nothing beats a fire on a wild camp but the machair on so many beautiful campsites is scarred by charred circles surrounded by blackened stones. Everyone seems to set up a new fire ring so the beach is scarred not just once but multiple times. It is much better to build a fire well down the beach so that the next tide sweeps it clean. We don't bother with a circle of stones.

Last year's bracken fronds make great tinder but it can be useful to have some cotton wool balls or pads in case things are damp. You can use a match or, as in this case, create sparks from a flint.

 Soon you will have a lovely fire to bake potatoes in and to...

...while away the hours until sunset.

End of a long day on Gigha.

 From the old mill, we paddled north up the...

 ...west coast of .Gigha.

We saw the MV Finlaggan round the north end on her way to Islay.

 At last we spotted a good place to...

 ...set up camp with a great view...

 ...to the Paps of Jura.