High and dry in Loch Moidart north channel.

At the east end of Shona Beag, the ebb tide was running strongly back down the south channel of Loch Moidart. once we rounded the end of the island we could see that the tide in the north channel was running east and joining the west flowing ebb in the south channel so I was pretty sure that the bar in the north channel would be dry.

My assumption was correct. High water in Loch Moidart was 08:54 and it was three days after springs. At 13:21 we were able to paddle right up to the causeway that the "road" runs over to Eilean Shona.

 Looking west down the north channel from the causeway.

Looking east up the north channel after the short portage across the causeway. For any future trips I am pretty sure that 3.5 hours either side of high water in Loch Moidart should see you through without a portage. No time was to be wasted, not even for a drop of The Singleton. We remained quite dry as we raced to beat the tide.

The north channel was emptying quickly and water was extremely shallow for a considerable distance below the causeway...

 ,...so it was a great relief to enter deeper water.

The Sgurr of Eigg acts as a focal point at the far end of the north channel which is...

 ...hemmed in by steep rocky slopes. We called this balanced rock "the Mushroom".

 The opening to the north channel is blocked by a series of low reefs and...

 ...green lagoons interspersed with...

 ...coral sand beaches.

Then we were clear, into the Sound of Arisaig with magnificent views to Eigg and the snow covered Cuillin of Rum beyond. Time for a swally *

* swally (n) a quenching of one's drouth.

Fifty shades of grey in Loch Moidart.

 It was with some reluctance...

 ...that Ian and I dragged ourselves away from the environs of shoe bay but...

 ...the ebb tide was now running strongly out of the south channel of Loch Moidart and we hoped to circumnavigate the tidal island of Eilean Shona.

We hugged the coast of the isle and looked...

...enjoyed the open views over Loch Moidart to the...

 ...distant grey mountains beyond.

Basking grey seals blended with the grey rocks but we passed at a respectful distance and they did not slither into the water.

 The grim grey walls of Tioram Castle (pron. Cheerum) seemed to grow...

 ...out of the grey rocks of its tidal island.

It really does seem to be part of the grey landscape of Moidart. In Scotland we are lucky to have not just wonderful sea and landscapes but to have these historic castles as well.

As we paddled through the inner recesses of Loch Moidart the isles and coast became thickly wooded...

 ...but the trees had been badly damaged by winter storms and many fallen trunks were greying as they weathered.

At last we reached the eastern end of Eilean Shona which is called Shona Beag. In a moment we would discover if the north channel was dry...

The P&H Aries 155 as a beginner's kayak.

The Aries 155 is rapidly becoming my favourite kayak. Its versatility gives it appeal to experts in the surf and for those that like paddle sailing, it is unsurpassed by any of the kayaks I have tried. It is also good for beginners, though I should point out that this is my own opinion and I have no coaching qualifications. I am aware that some coaches think the Delphin and Aries are not suitable for beginners.

Anyway David is 74 years old and this is his first kayak lesson. His only previous experience in a canoe was 50 years ago and lasted for 15 minutes until he fell out.  He soon mastered turning and bracing using the paddle alone and within 20 minutes of being on the water had the sail up. He soon had the hang of threading through the gaps between old salmon net poles.

 Then he moved on to close reaching and...

broad reaching. He even managed an occasional plane in the small waves. In all he covered 6km in his first lesson.

Not only is the Aries a great kayak for beginners, this also demonstrates how accessible paddle sailing is with the Flat Earth kayak sail.

Quite remarkable....

Luncheon at Shoe Bay.

 Ian and I paddled across the south mouth of Loch Moidart towards Eilean Shona and a little inlet....

 ...which lies hidden at the back of...

 ...a cleft of...

 ...turquoise water...

 ...that runs deep into the grey rocks of Moidart.

The silvery sands of Shoe Bay are very soft...

 ...and have claimed very many shoes over the years.

 We climbed to a knoll above the sands where we enjoyed a view...

 ...of the Ardnamurchan peninsula along which we had recently paddled.

We enjoyed a first luncheon washed down by a dram of The Singleton. We found a cork from a bottle of Bollinger, which suggested that suggested that silver slippers and not just Lomo boots may have been lost in the soft sands of Shoe Bay.

Peaceful Ardtoe reverie shattered by sudden sufacing of Sammy the Otter.

 Ian and I paddled round Eilean Dubh in Kentra Bay. This small isle is split by...

 ...numerous channels through which....

 ...the strengthening ebb tide propelled us steadily...

 ...past the birchwoods at the narrow entrance and...

 towards the open sea.

We paddled north towards the vegetation capped Sgeir an Eididh, which in Gaelic means clothed reef. In the distance beyond the dark outline of Eigg, the Rum Cuillin were capped in snow.

We had now left the birch woods of Ardtoe behind and were paddling along the barren rocky peninsula of Rubha  na Caillich in Moidart...Point of the Old Woman.

 Our peaceful reverie was shattered by the sudden surfacing of our old friend Sammy the Otter who seemed...

...quite unconcerned by our presence.

Better days in Kentra Bay.

After a good breakfast at Glenuig Inn, Ian and I launched in the small sandy cove of Ardtoe. It is situated at the root of the great peninsula of Ardnamurchan. It was just after high water, so we decided to start our day by exploring the tidal inlet of Kentra Bay.

As we approached the narrow entrance, the coast to our left was composed of grey rocks interspersed with white sand beaches and on our right...

 ...lay the Small Isles and...

 ...the snow covered Cuillin of Skye.

 We paddled into Kentra Bay under a leaden sky and upon a glassy sea.

 Wild wooded slopes tumbled steeply to the shores and...

 ...the ebb tide was already streaming through...

 ....the gaps between the rocky islets.

 We passed an old boathouse and a carefully...

 ...moored old Nordkapp.

Although it was March, the birch woods were still in the grip of winter. Maybe the trees were expecting the coming snows...

 This moored dinghy had seen better days but...

 ...the old Ardtoe pier is made of sterner stuff, its great stones have weathered many storms.

Nearby houses perched on the cliffs, while their boat houses clung to rocks by the shore.