The buzzard of Camas Drollaman on a hot February day..

We set off from Camas Eilean a'Ghail with the dark rocks of Eilean an t-Snidhe and the dreamy blue hills of Moidart on the southern horizon.

As we slowly paddled east...

...the view was gradually dominated by...

 ...the steep blue slopes of Rois-Bheinn (878m) which soared up into an even bluer sky.

As we passed by Camas Drollaman this fine buzzard soared down from the hillside high above and kept a watch full eye on us.

The beaches further east were composed of small cobbles and Jennifer landed on one to take some photos of a pile of flotsam for a photo documentary piece she is working on.

 We paddled steadily east...

 ...but we were not in too much of a hurry.

At twenty past two, Ian's watch was still showing 14 degrees C. It had fallen from 16 degrees in the heat of this unusual February day.

 We explored every nook and cranny of the coast and...

...at last the delightful chain of the Borrowdale Islands came in view.

Of vitrified hill forts and vitrified kayakers..

 After a very pleasant luncheon we paddled east...

 ...along the north shore of the sound of Arisaig. The white shell sand had given way to dark rocks and reefs.

 As we approached Eilean a' Ghaill, a steep sided  island just offshore, we could see...

 ..the remains of a vitrified Iron Age hill fort perched on its summit.

 Then we came across another white sand beach...

 Whoa!!! Time for second luncheon.

The kayaks were soon drawn up on the dazzling white shell sand and...

 ...second luncheon was served in the sun.  Never mind vitrified forts, Phil and Mike (who had not swum at our previous stop)  were nearly vitrified in their dry suits. Phil formed a particular attachment to this beach, as we will see later.....

Three unexpected swims in the Sound of Arisaig.

Leaving the skerries, we made our way to the north shore of the Sound of Arisaig where we discovered...

 ...this stunning white shell sand beach...

...which nestled between rocky outcrops.

 We drew our kayaks up...

...on the pristine sands and...

...made our way up to a closely cropped grassy sward and...

 ...found a most suitable vantage spot to partake of...

...our first luncheon.

 A solitary rock pipit hovered round waiting for crumbs.

From the little hill beside the beach there was a stunning view back to the Moidart hills behind Samalaman bay from where we had set off.

 There was another stunning view of Eigg and Rum...

 ...not to mention Skye.

 Next we turned our attention to the beach...

 ...which was covered by thousands of shells.

Despite looking very hard...

...only Jennifer found a solitary northern cowrie. They were much harder to find here than on our visit to Gunna.

 Finding the cowrie seemed to go to Jennifer's head, she did a series of cartwheels straight...

 ...into the sea, which was only 7 degrees Celsius!

Photo by Philip Toman

Not to be outdone, Ian and I also felt obliged to go for a quick dip. Swimming in Scotland in mid February...whatever next?

Into the blue, in the Sound of Arisaig.

It was back on the 19th of February that Ian, Mike and I were joined by Jennifer and Phil for a paddle in the Sound of Arisaig.

 The bay at Samalaman was in deep shade and a hard frost covered the sands...

 ...but just offshore we entered full sunshine...

 ...which helped to warm frozen fingers as we got the spray decks on.

 Mike took advantage of a light breeze but...

 ...it did not last long and soon we were paddling on a glassy sea.

Ian has already drawn attention to the amazing quality of blue light we experienced that morning.

In the distance the distinctive outlines of Eigg and Rum dominated the western horizon while...

...behind us the hills of Moidart were thrown into relief by the  low winter sun.

We were making for a series of skerries that guard the mouth of the Sound of Arisaig.

Scotland Outdoors, Spring 2013 issue.

The Spring 2013 issue of Scotland Outdoors magazine has just been published. I was very pleased to be asked to contribute an article about sea kayaking the seas at the end of the Road to the Isles. Scotland Outdoors magazine presents the best in outdoor activities to a readership who are passionate about Scotland's wild places, so it is great that sea kayaking has been given such exposure. Sea kayaking really is a great way to explore Scotland. As an "ex" walker, hill walker, scrambler, climber, mountaineer, skier, cyclist, mountain biker, white water kayaker, dinghy sailor, yachter and windsurfer I should know!

Under a blood red sky at Cul na Croise.

Ian and I paddled out of Cul na Croise  bay towards the mountains of Eigg and Rum under a sky that gradually turned...

 ...to blood red.

As Mike paddled directly back to the shuttle car at Ardtoe, Ian and I sat in our kayaks and savoured the stunning sunset until it was nearly gone.

By the time we got to Ardtoe it was nearly dark with only a few embers of the long gone sun slowly fading in the south west sky.

The north coast of Ardnamurchan, Portuairk to Ardtoe (27.5km) proved to be a stunning but committing paddle. On the narrow single track roads, the shuttle took two hours to set up and another two hours to recover the car at Portuairk two days later. I am particularly grateful to Ian and Mike for the driving as I would have been unable to drive that distance on these roads, never mind paddle afterwards!

You can read another illustrated account of this Ardnamurchan trip on Ian's blog here, here and here.