A unobstructed view thanks to midges and shaggy dogs.

We passed by the south coast of Easdale...


...on our approach...


...to the little harbour at Ellenabeich, which nestles below the rocky slopes of Dun Mor, on the Island of Seil.


We called in at the Oyster Brewery Bar Restaurant for a Guinness and some excellent haddock and chips. Despite being crowded when we arrived, we got the best seats. We are not sure if it was the coincidental arrival of the Highland midge or David's shaggy dog stories that cleared the terrace...


...but the view south across the flooded slate quarry to Luing, Scarba and Easdale was marvellous.

On this occasion, we stuck to Guinness as our previous favourite local brew, Grey Dogs Strong Ale, was no longer available. At least we could see the view this time!

An encounter with Loti on an uneasy sea.

Long after we had left Belnahua we were still being carried north at 9-11km/hr on an uneasy sea. Wind against tide here can be an interesting experience. Fortunately there was not a breath of wind.


Looking back to the Garvellachs, we could just make out the outline of Colonsay to their right side.


Soon we left the isolated rocks of Dubh-fheith behind.


As we approached Easdale, the evening Cal-Mac ferry...


...passed on her way to Colonsay from Oban. She is the MV Lord of the Isles. Loti as she is affectionately known is 84.6m long and was built in 1989 at Port Glasgow on the Clyde.

Bear right at Belnahua!

We paddled east towards the Black Islands. Away to the south Jura and Islay lay on the horizon while Eileach an Naoimh lay closer at hand.


We got a good view of Dun Chonnuil to the north. Through the gap between it and Garbh Eileach we could see the Laggan peninsula on Mull.


We slipped through the reefs to the east of Eilean Dubh Beag, the smaller of the Black Islands. After a brief stop on Eilean Dubh Mor we cut across to the north end of Lunga. The Sound of Luing was running like a river and we broke into its current.


We were carried north past the lighthouse on Fladda. It was built in 1860 David and Thomas Stevenson. It flashes every 9 seconds and has red white and green sectors.


If you are not careful you will be swept past the SW corner of Belnahua but a stiff paddle should see you up its east side.


Only then can you relax and let the 5 knot tide...


...secure in the knowledge that it will take you all the way back to Seil.

Return tickets for the Sound of Luing express.

We cut through the reefs to the SW of A' Chuli and proceeded up its SE coast until...


...we arrived at Garbh Eileach and its little jetty, which is used by the farmers to load and unload sheep for summer. We basked on the warm rocks and enjoyed a little refreshing amber nectar.


Although it is a rocky landing this bay is sheltered from all directions except NE. Rising water announced that the flood tide was now well established.


At last it was time to go.


We were bound for the Black Islands (on the horizon) and the tides in the Sound of Luing beyond, for which we all carried return tickets. With any luck the tides would now carry us all the way back to Seil.

The great eagle of Eileach an Naoimh

The exposed NW cooast of Eileach an Naoimh inthe Garvellach Isles is a wondrous place. This great stone eagle stretches its wings over a tiny paddler, who is lost in the scale of the place.


Usually the swell is too big to get in this close. We had looped round the Garvellachs in a figure of eight, so that we would paddle this bit later in the day, when the sun had come round...


You can see why!


Having traversed below the NW cliffs of Eileach an Naoimh we planned to slip through a gap in the chain of islands and now go up the SE coast of Garbh Eileach. A 10.8m creel boat, the Mairi Christine OB520, from Luing also had the same idea , in reverse!

Garvellachs rock face.

Fleeing from the midges at the monastery, we made our way round the reefs at the SW corner of the Garvellachs...


...before turning NE up their exposed side.


The modern lighthouse is perched...


on the end of a line of dramatic tillite cliffs.


As we made our way below the lighthouse...


We became aware of the dramatic features of the Old Man of the Garvellachs, whose stony gaze was directed to the distant mountains of Mull..

A fishless lunch on Eileach an Naoimh

We slipped through a gap in the reefs through to the SE side of the Garvellachs. I fell behind the others to drop a mackerel line over the side. I very quickly caught a good sized one but when I pulled it in it was just a head! It had been very neatly bitten off at the gills by a seal that was following us. I gave up on the idea of mackerel for lunch. :o(


The magnificent Paps of Jura dominated the horizon to the south...


...while we made our way past the barnacle encrusted reef of Sgeir Leth a' Chuain towards the sloping SE side of Eileach an Naoimh... the rocky isle of the Saint.


We passed under the Clochain, a pair of ancient beehive cells where monks from the monastery retreated to pray.


From the landing spot, we climbed up to a little platform beside the monastery, which had a great view over to the Gulf of Corryvreckan, which lies between Scarba and Jura. Even from this distance we could see the swell breaking on the exposed SW coast of Scarba.


The view to the south towards the Paps of Jura showed that the monks must have enjoyed the scenery while meditating.


We too attempted to meditate, while enjoying our fish-less lunch. However, we were subjected to a most ferocious midge attack in the midday sun. Don't these midges play by the rules? Either monks were very thick skinned or the beehive cells were midge proof. If they were stuck in these windowless cells for months on end, maybe they didn't enjoy the view after all!