Have you ever heard of Knockienausk Head?

The tide built up as the afternoon wore on...


...and we sped past Money Head.


To the west we could just make out the coast of Northern Ireland and to the east...


...we passed under the cliffs of Gull Rigging and indeed there were a few gulls getting ready to nest on its ledges.


From Knockienausk Head we looked back to headland after headland on the Rhins of Galloway coast. Thanks to tidal assistance, we had rounded quite a few of them on two occasions today!



The sun began to sink rapidly to the horizon above the distant hills surrounding Belfast Lough and we were nearly back in Portpatrick. We had so enjoyed paddling this remote coastline with so many strange names.

What happens after you test a P&H Cetus LV?

The P&H Cetus LV looked good on the sands of Ardwell Bay.


While we were engaged upon our luncheon, the tide race had built up off Money Head in the foreground. Portpatrick lay 12km away under the distant transmitter mast beyond Tandoo Point in the distance.


Several people have emailed asking when I am going to publish the results of our test of the P&H Cetus.


Tony really enjoyed paddling it...


...but the test has been published...


in issue 20 of Ocean Paddler magazine.


I will post a copy of the test here...


...once the next issue of OP is published in 2 month's time.


Until then you will just need to take our word for it that it is a damn fine sea kayak.


At the end of the test Tony ordered a Cetus, which is more appropriate to his weight than the LV.

We four represented the sum of human activity in these parts.

After dallying at the Devil's Bridge, it was now time to retrace our wakes and turn north. We were running with the tide again and were blasted through the narrow gap between Otter Rock and the Mull of Logan.


Incoming swells against the tide made for joyous paddling conditions in the February sunshine.


Once round the Mull, we were grateful for all the tidal assistance we could get. Our destination, Portpatrick, lay beyond the most distant headland. As far as the eye could see, not a single building broke the long line of headlands, bays and cliffs.


Out to sea the horizon was empty and devoid of ships of any size. We four represented the sum of human activity in these parts.


This was a heavy burden to bear and made us feel quite peckish. So we nipped into the shelter of...


...Ardwell Bay for a second luncheon and toast the adventure with the remainder of Phil's Glenlivet malt whisky!

The Old Man of the Mull of Logan.

We enjoyed fantastic sea kayaking through a maze of skerries as we paddled towards the still distant Mull of Logan.


The Mull itself looks rather uninteresting when approached from the north. Lurghie point just emerges gently from the sea.


However, turn the corner and its character changes. We found ourselves paddling against a stiff adverse current between Otter Rock and the Mull as the tide had turned almost an hour before.


Then we turned a corner and there was the Devil's Bridge, one of the finest but least known of Scotland's many rock arches.


In the lagoon behind the arch, the stony gaze of the Old Man of the Mull of Logan keeps a perpetual watch over those who pass the Mull...

Slack water in the North Channel.

We left Port Stilton in almost perfect conditions.


The North Channel coastline of the Rhins of Galloway is for the most part devoid of any sign of human activity.


Our only companions were fulmars which swooped round us with wing tips skimming the sea.


As our mission to the Mull of Logan progressed, the sun crossed the yardarm and the water went glassy calm. Slack water had arrived in the North Channel.

Where will we take luncheon today?

After paddling under dark breezy skies, we were relieved when the sun broke through again and the wind died to next to nothing.


We were getting hungry by now and we came upon the delightful Port of Spittal Bay.


Right on the beach, stands the reputed Knockinaam Lodge Hotel. This fine establishment has a Michelin star and luncheon there is a mere £37.50.... very mouthwatering and tempting. We salivated over the luncheon menu...

Grilled Fillet of Native Salmon
with Basil Pesto

Cauliflower and Parsley Soup
with Crème Fraîche

Roast Cannon of Galloway Lamb
Thyme Pomme Fondant, Haggis Bon Bon
Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage,
and a Juniper and Port Reduction

Caramelized Thin Apple Tart
with Double Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
or
Selection of Fine British and French Cheeses
served with a Walnut and Sultana Bread

Coffee and Petits Fours

...indeed we salivated so much we could understand why it was called Port of Spittal Bay!


However, on this occasion the temptation of some excellent rockhopping ahead and a strong flood tide carried us away from this culinary temptation.


This really is an exceptional coast and we enjoyed every hungry minute of it...


...until we arrived at Port Stilton.


Here on this bare strand, we would enjoy our few plain victuals.

A Galloway snow squall warning

Although we had driven through snowshowers on the way to Portpatrick, we launched under clear blue skies. We soon found ourselves in the shade.


Making our way to the SE along the cliffs of Tandoo Point on the Rhins of Galloway, the skies darkened...


...as a great snow squall raced across the land and out to sea. This was a trip that could go either way...