The hidden entrance to Loch Creran

Travelling south from Port Appin we paddled below this interesting former sea stack. It has a wooded summit, steep wave cut cliffs and it sits high and dry on a raised beach which connects it to the Appin mainland.


It even has a natural arch cut by a former higher sea level.


From the sea, the wooded isle of Eriska almost completely blocks the tortuous entrance to lovely Loch Creran which lies hidden below the distant mountains.


Suddenly this barge appeared from the midst of the woods! She is the MV Rose of Lorne and was built in 1965. She ferries supplies to the Glensanda quarry which has no road access but is one of the biggest quarries in Europe. In 2008 she gained a second storey to her wheelhouse. She was contracted to transport 8 giant dump trucks from Oban to Glensanda. The captain needed to be higher to see where he was going! Normally the Rose of Lorne operates between Barcaldine in Loch Creran and Glensanda.


We now entered the winding entrance to the loch. It is fringed by great banks of gravel, which were left by the melting glacier that once carved its way to the sea here.


Once we passed the gravel and woodlands of Eriska, we began to see our way round to the hidden loch.

Little and large on the road north to Appin

Back at the beginning of February, we took the great road north again past Buchaille Etive Mor, 1022m, and through the dark recesses of Glen Coe beyond.


At Loch Linnhe we turned south and entered the lands of Appin which were controlled by the bold fortress of...


Castle Stalker sitting on its little island. On the bigger island of Shuna beyond, you can just see the tiny remains of its rather inadequate neighbour, Castle Shuna.


Soon we were kayaking out into the Lynn of Lorne...


...where we set a southerly course.

An excessive attachment to the land.

Today we enjoyed a fantastic trip to Holy Island off the east coast of Arran.


Holy Island is an ancient Christian site (St Molaise) but is currently owned by Buddhist monks. Although the "No Landing" signs have been removed (after a complaint by us to the Ayrshire and Arran Access Officer) this new sign has appeared. The monks clearly have little concept of the Land Reform (Scotland) Act. We resisted the temptation to burn the sign but will write again to the Access Officer.

The Master of Ballantrae

Soon we were at the south end the great sweep of Ballantrae Bay. There was a bitingly cold north east wind blowing...


...so it was with some relief when we finally entered the shelter of the harbour.


We did not hang around and...


...as I issued instructions, the faithful support team warmed themselves by carrying the heavy kayaks up to the cars...


...while I swanned off to take in the glorious view.


I felt just like the Master of Ballantrae, as I surveyed the...


...magnificence of Ayrshire's Atlantic coast.

A pillow for a tired sea kayaker's head

All to soon it was time to leave delightful Portandea and...


...head north again, along the lichen encrusted, yellow cliffs of Ayrshire's Atlantic coast.


Despite the fact we had just passed this way, a change in tide and direction gave new channels to explore and we soon lost each other in the maze of skerries.


Sea kayaking is a very companionable activity and we discussed in depth...


...the amazing pillow lava formations that erupted under the sea from a long extinct volcanic vent. The examples here are some of the best in the world apart from the freshly formed pillows in Hawaii.


By now we were getting tired and hungry. Time for third luncheon.

Fast birds and boats...

We continued in a southerly direction along the South Ayrshire coast leaving Ailsa Craig far behind.


We passed Dove Cove, where there are usually hundreds of rock doves. Today we saw only this fellow, a peregrine falcon, who was sitting bold as brass on his perch. I wonder what peregrines eat? (Sorry about the small image, I had my wide angle lens on at the time.)


The superb coastline continued...


...for headland after headland...



...until we came to Portandea...


...where it was time to partake of a second luncheon.


We watched the ferries enteringand leaving Loch Ryan at very scary speeds. You would need to have your wits about you to cross their path in a sea kayak.

P&H Cetus LV comparative test

We have nearly finished testing the P&H Cetus LV for Ocean Paddler magazine. We just needed some further comparative testing. Unfortunately the Cetus LV did not compare that well with this particular opposition! When up against the...


...Cetacea Delphinidae, she was well and truly outgunned. The Cetacea accelerated more quickly, was faster, more manoeuvrable, less affected by waves and wind, able to get out of the water more quickly... in fact, the only area the Cetus LV proved to be superior in, was nose diving!

Ah well, back to the drawing board.