The quicklime industry on Eilean nan Caorach.

We paddled down the east coast of  Eilean nan Caorach (Sheep Island) and arrived at a beach backed by a cottage, a store house, an...

 ...old pier and three lime kilns. Limestone from the hillside behind the kilns has been quarried away.  The industry lasted for over a hundred years from about 1800.

 The islands in this part of the Firth of Lorn are rich in Dalriadan limestone and this was roasted in the kilns to produce quicklime which was stored...

...in the roofed building on the left of this photo, before being taken away in boats.

The whole operation was run by two families who lived in these cottages.

The  building with the blue doors (behind the quicklime store) was a smithy.

The oldest kiln is now in a pretty unstable state.

A ramp leads up to the top and limestone rubble was dropped into the kiln from...

...above onto a grate below which the coals were lit and then roasted for several days.

The coal was stored in this open walled enclosure behind the quicklime store.

The jetty was used to bring in coal for the kilns and take the quicklime out for agricultural and building purposes. The reef in the middle of this photo is actually a ballast bank where boats dumped ballast before taking on quicklime. At one time there were 24 locally owned smacks which carried coal, limestone and slate. The last was the "Mary and Effie" which was owned by Captain Alan MacFadyen who traded these waters in her until the late 1940's.

The two newer kilns are lined by brick rather than rough stone.

This rowan tree presumably had a sheltered start to life.

This is the view from the top of the kilns to the north towards Shuna and the Appin hills.

This is the view to the south  The island just beyond the ballast bank is called Inn Island. Many people think that there was once an inn there but it is called this because it was leased together with the Port Appin Inn which can be seen at the foot of the wooded slope on the mainland. InnIsland was originally shown as Island Imachar on the Appin Estate map. The Garvellachs can just be seen on the horizon to the right of centre.

We returned to the base of the Kilns. The largest  is still in pretty good condition and Ian and I crouched down to make our way inside to...

...the main brick lined kiln chamber.

The coal store now shelters an old Mirror dinghy, a kayak and a deflated inflatable all of which have seen better days.

Is it worth paddle sailing up wind and up tide across the Lynn of Lorn?

It was now time to leave the north of Shuna. The flood tide had already reached the boats.

We managed to get the sails up for a short paddle across the north end of the island but...

...as soon as we turned south down the Sound of Shuna we faced a head wind and the north going tide.

The mooring for the Shuna farm work boats is on the east of Shuna.

As we progressed down the Sound of Shuna there were some bursts of sunlight and...

...to the south the Sgeir Buidhe lighthouse and Eilean Dubh stood out against the glowing sky above the Lynn of Lorn.

From the south end of Shuna it is 1.75km across the north end of the Lynn of Lorn to Eilean nan Caorach (sheep island) which lies off the NE tip of Lismore. The offshore wind was gusting quite badly so Mike and Ian decided to paddle and I stuck my sail up. Although I started on a beam reach, our route took us across a tide that was running at 2 knots. Even maintaining a high ferry angle I ended up paddle sailing close hauled.

This is on Eilean nan Caorach looking back at Shuna.  First of all, note how far down tide (to the left) Ian and Mike have been carried, we set off from the south end of Shuna which is out of picture to the right. Secondly, many people say it is not worth paddle sailing close hauled as the kayak will not plane to windward. However, I beg to differ. I paddle sailed the crossing and arrived 4 minutes and 35 seconds before Ian and Mike arrived by paddling alone.


As you can see, they were in the tide a lot longer and got carried well down tide.

This seal was so busy looking at me he did not notice Ian's approach. It disappeared with a huge splash as...

...Ian passed and finally arrived on Sheep Island. I rest my case m'lud!

Island dwellings in Loch Linnhe.

 From Castle Stalker we enjoyed a brisk paddle sail across the Sound of Shuna in the offshore wind.

There are some modern conifer plantations on Shuna which being limestone is much more fertile than many of the west coast islands.

Shuna Castle is barely visible in the trees. It was built about the end of the 16th century by the Stewarts of Appin and used for about 200 years.

Shuna farmhouse which was built in the 1740's was a much more comfortable residence than the old castle.

 We were circumnavigating Shuna clockwise* and made the most...

*see comment from Frank below!

 ...of the SE wind until...

...we fell into the lee of the island which was a wild...

 ...place with rivulets running down the mossy rocks into the sea.

Near the north of the island we found a sheltered spot out of the SE wind for first luncheon. From here we has a grandstand view right up Loch Linnhe surrounded by the mountains of Ardgour, Appin and and Lochaber. Needless to say the view was enhanced by a dram of Mikes Jura Superstition.

Right in the centre of the view lay little Eilean Balnagowan which we had visited the day before. You can see the new "bothy" which has been built by the island's new owners.

Castle Stalker and the quest for the Holy Grails of Port Appin.

On the fourth day of our winter trip we drove from Ballachuilish to Port Appin further down Loch Linnhe. We got parked right next to the beach access but in summer parking here is not easy.  Port Appin has been the ferry port to the island of Lismore for at least 250 years. The Lismore is the current passenger ferry.

We launched beside the Pier House Hotel. Their Grand Seafood platter for two sells for and eye and mouth watering £85. We decided to dine alfresco rather than order the Holy Grail of sea food platters.

This old boat on the shore has seen better days.

Port Appin was under thick grey cloud but both to the north and south there was a hint of winter  sunshine.

The south going ebb had already started so we decided to paddle north to explore while there was still water,

Our first destination was the Sgeir Bhuidhe light. This is a modern recreation of the original late 19th century light. In 2001 it was planned to replace the old light with a modern rectangular box. Locals were upset that their local Holy Grail of lighthouses would be no more and the old light was painted to look like Mr Blobby in protest. Sense prevailed and this modern light is a passable copy of the...

 ...original, which certainly looks a lot better than a rectangular box. The original light's lantern house is now a museum in the village.

 A little SE breeze got up which helped with the paddle against the ebb tide which was now poring out of ...

...Loch Laich. Standing on an islet in the mouth of the Loch, Castle Stalker enjoyed a near impregnable position.The Gaelic name was Caisteal na Stalcaire. The Gaelic language is very economical with words and so each can have several meanings. Stalcaire means:

A One that hobbles or walks awkwardly.
B Dresser of hooks.
C Starch.
D Blockhead.
E Hunter, fowler, deer-stalker.
F Gazer, starer.
G Arrow-maker.
H Pacing-horse.
I  Bully.
J Robust fellow.
K None of the above.

So take your pick!

Castle Stalker was built by the Stewarts of Appin in the 1440s.

Over the years it changed hands with the Campbells several times and on one occasion changed ownership as a result of a bet. Perhaps Castle Blockhead is the right interpretation!

It was restored by a descendant of the Stewarts between 1965 and 1975. It achieved more recent fame as "Castle Aargh" in Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

"Here may be found the last words of Joseph of Arimathea:"

"'He who is valiant and pure of spirit..may find the Holy Grail.in the Castle of Aaargh."'

The Stalker logo is made from an old fisherman's anchor and chain.

Ian and I could not resist photographing it from a variety of angles.

We made our way up steep slippy rocks to...

...the grass below the castle's two entrance doors.

This is the view from the castle. In 1745 it was held by the Campbells and besieged by the Stewarts. The attackers could not get their cannon close enough  and the cannon balls bounced...

 ...harmlessly off the walls. We made our way up to the main entrance to the castle living accommodation. There is a well worn coat of arms above the door. Whether this was weather worn or scrubbed away by successive owners is not known.

 This is not the original door but is well in keeping with the castle.

 The ground floor door gives access to three cellars and a prison cell.

 Not having found the Holy Grail, we decided to set off from...

...Castle Stalker and continue our voyage...

 ...the Sound of Shuna to Shuna Island.

More sea eagles than seakayakers on our four day winter adventure!

We came around a corner and something caught our eye in the sky. It was a bloody great birdy thing. It didn't go far, a couple of flaps of its wing and it landed on a grassy bank just ahead of us. 

From its perch it kept a beady eye on us but it was completely unfazed by our passing, just 50m away. We had stopped paddling and just let the kayak sails move us serenely along. Even seals don't get upset when we approach under sail alone.

Anyway the birdie proved to be an immature sea eagle. Last summer two mature sea eagles were regularly spotted in this area. Rather sadly there was no sign of the peregrine falcons which used to inhabit this spot.and which I saw on all of my previous visits. Mind you the big birdies don't get it all their own way. Two black backed gulls swooped down and chased it off its perch then started mobbing it in the air.

Wildlife sighting tally:

Other sea kayakers: 0 Sea eagles: 1