Sea kayaking portal to a short winter day.

This magnificent Edwardian portal from the Wemyss Bay railway station to the ferry terminal was built in 1903 to carry the holiday crowds from Glasgow to the steamers that went "Doon the Watter".



Bang up to date, CalMac's MV Bute entered service on the Wemyss Bay to Rothesay route in 2005. It took us to Bute and allowed a paddle that otherwise would not have been possible in a short winter day. MV Bute was built in Poland. I am going to try and get a Polish slater to fix my roof.

Boys will be Buoys

Both Wenley and Cailean have blogged about buoys today. I thought I might join in too. These two pairs of lateral light buoys are situated in the Kyles of Bute where the navigable channels of the East and West Kyles meet.

Kyles of Bute

The Kyles of Bute are the narrow channels which separate the Isle of Bute from the mainland. They are a very long way from the open sea and generally tidal streams in the Firth of Clyde are weak but the spring tide runs through the Kyles at up to 3 knots. The "lighthouse" is the An Caladh beacon which is actually lightless. If you do not have time to paddle to Bute from the Ayrshire coast, there is a perfectly good Calmac ferry from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay. Tomorrow is Christmas Eve but it is also a spring tide.......

Eilean Musdile lighthouse

I thought a midsummer sunset behind a lighthouse might brighten a short dark winter day. This is Eilean Musdile light which is at the south end of Lismore and guards the entrance to the Sound of Mull from The Firth of Lorn. Roberst Stevenson built the lightghouse in 1833. It weas automated in 1965. It flashes white for 0.5 seconds every 10 seconds.



It was taken from MV Dundarg, a 1930's fishing boat which was chartered by Andy Spink of Hebridean Pursuits for their Wild West Week, sea kayaking off the west coast of Scotland.



The week lived up to expectations!

Day dreams in the shortest day.

Today the sun set in Glasgow at 15:44. Tomorrow it will set at 15:45. I do not wish to sound as if I am wishing my life away but summer is now on the way!

This picture was taken in late June when the sun sets at 22:05. We left Glasgow after work on Friday and launched from Arduaine at 21:20. The sun is setting behind Ben More on Mull. That night we camped on Luing. The next morning we went out through the Cuan Sound to the Garvellachs. From there we went to Scarba where we watched the sun set over the great race that extends to the west from the mouth of the Corryvreckan on flood. Kieran recently wrote about this and other whirlpools.



The Corryvreckan lies between the islands of Scarba and Jura.



The summer panorama from the steep slopes of Scarba was simply stunning.



Sweet dreams are made of this.

The late, lamented Sony DSC U60

This is my favourite camera for taking rough water photos. Hans has also recognized its functionality in this situation.



Its unusual shape gives it superb ergonomics for one handed operation. The thumb naturally falls on the on/off button and the index finger on the shutter release. Unlike most small digital cameras, it has a very rapid startup time and little shutter delay. It has no optical viewfinder but the small LCD screen is very bright. The fixed lens is equivalent to a 20mm wide angle on a 35mm film camera. It has an aperture of f2.8 which gives reasonable performance in lower light. There is a raised plastic ridge round the lens to help keep greasy finger tips off the glass cover. It has a decent O ring seal on a clamp base which closes with a lever mechanism for tightness then has two locks. The two AAA batteries are enough for over 200 shots and are contained in the middle of the plastic body where they are well insulated from the cold.

They are not a common sight on the water; the sensor only has 2 mega pixels and most kayakers have bought the Pentax Optio, seduced by its greater number of pixels. The result is that unfortunately the Sony U60, like Betamax before it, is now no more. If only photographic success could be guaranteed by pixels, perhaps the Optio's commercial success would be a good thing.

Please, Mr Sony, bring back the U60, I don't care how many pixels it has. In the meantime, here are some more, what I care to call, U60 moments.....

Taking photos at sea....three

and it's much more difficult when the sun is not shining.

Taking photos at sea ...two

You need to get right in close where the action is...

Taking photos at sea......

Taking photos in even small waves can be tricky.


Edited 18/12/06: Derrick said "ok but where's that underwater shot from when you missed your brace trying to hold on to the camera??"





Taking photos at sea......can be tricky. I rest my case.

Easdale islander initiative

The little island of Easdale (which I recently described ) has been cut off from its larger neighbour, the island of Seil for nearly a week. Winter storms have shifted the slate spoil at the mouth of its sheltered harbour. The open passenger ferry boat has been unable to access its jetty and islanders have been stranded on the mainland and schoolchildren have been unable to get to school. The local council were not making very fast progress to dredge the harbour but The Herald reports a story of great island initiative. Islander Mike Mackenzie bought a 12 ton JCB excavator on the mainland and had it shipped to Easdale on a landing craft. He then spent 36 hours excavating the harbour mouth himself and restored the islanders' ferry link. Wonderful!



Easdale has 60 permanent residents and 13 of these are children of school age or younger. The island is car free and the passenger ferry takes just 5 minutes to cross to Seil.



The harbour was built in the 18th century and its beautifully constructed walls are now protected by an architectural "B" listing. There is a great deal of interesting industrial architecture and heritage on Seil as it was once a centre for slate mining.



It is easy to kayak through the narrow harbour mouth and explore the sheltered jetties and inlets within.



The little harbour is dominated by the bulk of Dun Mor on Seil and by the initiative of the islanders.

Torridonian Giants and Dwarves.

I mentioned Torridonian old red sandstone in a recent post on Rum. Here it is in situ in Loch Shieldaig which is an arm of Loch Torridon. The distant sunlit peaks are the sand stone giants, Beinn Alligin and Liathach. The little tree capped Sgeirean Mora is dwarfed by the giants but like them it is made of old red sandstone and stands in splendid isolation. The peace was only disturbed by a mother otter playing with her cub in the kelp.

Cardoness Chapel

This is the peaceful view from Cardoness Chapel which is tucked away amongst sessile oaks on the tidal Fleet estuary on the Solway. It was built in the late 18th century by the laird of Cardoness for his wife as a place of prayer and quiet contemplation. The chapel is one of the smallest in Scotland. It is never locked and when the tide is in you can sea kayak right up to the lovely sandy cove at its feet. At low water springs the tide retreats almost 3 kilometers over the Solway sands.



I will be talking about Fleet Bay in a future podcast on Simon Willis's site. The Solway is a much neglected part of Scotland's coastline but it is full of surprises. At the moment it is coming up to the end of University term and at the hospital lots of people are wanting to be seen before Christmas. In a word, my life is frantic at this time of year. I find the view from the Chapel window helps to restore tranquility.

Odd one out at Belnahua.

Summer 2006 was a prolific year for jellyfish on Scotand's west coast. Some say it is due to global warming, some that it is a result of overfishing. However, giant swarms have always appeared; they drift north feeding on plankton. I have never been able to understand their life cycle. How do they or their polyp offspring get back south again?

In a swarm of thousands of cyanea lamarckii (the blue jelly fish) I spotted this solitary yellow one at Belnahua. Jellyfish reproduce sexually and it is likely to be an albino, caused by inheriting two rare recessive mutations, one from each parent. Albinos are seen in many lifeforms.



Looking south from Belnahua in the Sound of Luing to the mountains of Scarba.

Jura: writers and stones

It has just been announced that the British writer Will Self will be the first writer in residence at the restored Craighouse Lodge near the Jura whisky distillery. He is following in the footsteps of George Orwell who sought the solitude of Jura to write "1984" in the remote farmhouse of Barnhill in the north east of the island.




Sea kayakers are also drawn to Jura. Its famous Paps guide their crossing of the Sound of Jura. The tides can be taken advantage of and a day trip is possible.



We launched at Carsaig Bay on the mainland and landed here at Tarbert Bay on Jura's east coast. Just behind the beach is a solitary, lichen covered standing stone of great antiquity. Some standing stones might have been connected with astronomy, others with religion or sacrifice. Possibly this one was simply a meeting place. Long before the written word, our ancestors were communicating with each other round stones like these. Unfortunately their oral tradition has long been lost.

With all our technology, is it likely our blogs will generate discussion in thousands of years? I think not, our enjoyable electronic chatter is far too ephemeral. Will 1984 still be read? If it is, will its meaning be understood, so far removed from the troubled times it was written in? I wish Will Self well in his endeavours. He may find inspiration at Tarbet Bay beside the stone of our ancestors. We might not know what its message means but it has transcended 4,000 years.

PS I can thoroughly recommend the 25 year old Jura malt.

Sperm whale comes ashore.

A 40 foot sperm whale has died on the beach at Roseisle near Burghead in Morayshire in Scotland's North East. This is near where I spent my childhood and where both Cailean and my brother now live. Sperm whales are deep diving whales and prefer the deeper waters off the West coast of Scotland. The waters of the North Sea are relatively shallow and the whales are rarely seen in these waters. However, the RAF recently spotted a pod of nine whales (possibly sperms) not from where this sad corpse was found. Sperm whales are toothed whales and dive to depths of 300 metres to catch their favoured food, giant squid. Their record dives have been as deep as 3,000 metres.



In Easter 2006 a 65.5 foot fin whale was trapped on the rocks at Barlocco reef on the Solway, (photo above). It came ashore at a high spring tide and was trapped on the razor sharp fangs of rock that characterise that part of the Solway Firth. Apparently it was 65.5 feet exactly as below the 65 foot size it would have been the responsibility of the local authority to dispose of. As it was found to be over 65 foot, it was the responsibility of the Scottish Executive. Fin whales are baleen whales and filter small organisms through great plates that hang down from their upper jaws. Its tongue was bigger than a Volvo estate car. It was humbling to paddle so close to this leviathan of the deep.

Recent research has discovered that sperm whales, fin whales, killer whales and humpback whales have spindle cells in the anterior cingulate cortex and the frontoinsular cortex spindle cells. Previously these cells had only been found in the brains of primates. In humans, these parts of the brain control emotional functions such as love, hurt, social organisation, empathy, speech, intuition and rapid "first impression" reactions.

We do not know if these cells have a similar function in whales but they have been evolving them for 30 million years, which long predates humans' appearance on the planet. I think it would be presumptuous of our species to assume that they do not have a similar function.

Scotland used to be one of the most active whaling nations on earth. After we killed our own whales our whaling ships then scoured the seas of Antarctica for more prey. These whalers were brave men. My mother's great uncle was a west coast whaler who lost his life at sea. Today I am proud to live in a nation that has now chosen not to hunt these magnificent creatures.

St Cormac's Chapel

The MacCormaig Islands lie within the powerful tides of the Sound of Jura. They are a great sea kayaking destination. Not only is it interesting getting there but they are fascinating to explore. On Eilean Mor is the 12th century Chapel dedicated to St Cormac (d.640). In the distance are the Paps of Jura and in front stands the shaft of an early Celtic cross. Unfortunately the round stone bearing the cross has fallen off but you can see the cut outs in the shaft where the cross once sat.



Inside the vaulted chancel there is a small crypt covered with a slab decorated with the effigy of an ecclesiastical figure. Some believe that this is the tomb of St Cormac but he was buried some distance away on the island and of course the chapel was not built until 600 years after his death.

The bridge over the Atlantic.

In a recent post on Easdale, I mentioned the Island of Seil. Since 1793, a single arch bridge has connected Seil to the mainland of Lorn south of Oban. The delicate sandstone arch on Tanera Beag brought the Clachan Bridge to mind. It spans the tidal Clachan Sound which is connected to the ocean, hence its common name "the bridge over the Atlantic". The narrow Clachan Sound runs straight for 1.5 kilometers before it joins the Seil Sound to the south to the Firth of Lorn to the north. Some think it must have been dug out as a canal but it is natural, occupying a fault line. It is a sheltered highlight on a circumnavigation of Seil but you need to get the tides right as the Sound can run like a river!

The Rum Cuillin and Bloodstone Hill

This is the view from the turquoise lagoon in the skerries at the mouth of Loch nan Ceal, Arisaig. The Cuillin of Rum are not so well known as their sisters on the misty isle of Skye but they have been attracting seafarers for thousands of years. Modern day Scottish sea kayakers know that one day they will paddle the wild shores of the Small Isles of the Inner Hebrides. The great arch in my recent post abuts onto Rum's remote north shore where Bloodstone Hill tumbles straight into the Sound of Canna. Bloodstone is one of the few rocks in Scotland which is good for making stone implements. It was also here that the sea eagle was reintroduced to Scotland.

Our ancestors have been visiting Rum for at least 7,500 years. A camp with a heap of hazel nut shells has been carbon dated to that time. Bloodstone arrow heads and axe heads have been found at great distances from the lonely isle of Rum. These people worked and traded bloodstone 3,000 years before the first stone was laid in an Egyptian pyramid.

At that time their boats were dug out canoes hewn from a single tree trunk. We modern kayakers paddle in the wakes of countless generations of skilled seafarers. It is humbling.

Dunure Castle and the roasting of the Abbot!

The grim walls of Dunure Castle on the Ayrshire coast can be best appreciated from the sea. After all, the sea was the motorway in the age of the great maritime castles of Scotland. At that time travel across land was time consuming, arduous and dangerous. The castles were built to control the faster sea routes used by travellers, traders and invaders.

They all have a history but few can have been witness to such an awful deed as the roasting of the Abbot of Crossraguel Abbey. In 1570 Gilbert, the 4th Earl of Cassillis, kidnapped the Abbot, Alan Stewart, and threw him into the Black Vault which lay deep within the walls of Dunure. Here he roasted Stewart on a spit until he agreed to sign over the Church's land to Gilbert.



Today you can paddle into the nearby fishing harbour of Dunure. The village pub, the Anchorage, is as convenient for the sea as the castle. It makes a welcome stop for the modern day seafaring kayaker.

Sea kayaking heaven: a gneiss time on Lewis.

Here are more memories of a fantastic summer. I have posted a full photo gallery of our summer trip to NW Lewis over on the Scottish Sea Kayaking Photo Gallery. This is an extreme form of self indulgence but in the middle of a very poor spell of weather, when I am not feeling particularly well, it is rather nice reliving such adventures.

Arch #2

The second in an occasional series of arches; another island and another rock. This graceful arch is of Torridonian (old red) sandstone and is on the lovely isle of Tanera Beg in the Summer Isles. These lie at the mouth of Loch Broom in the north west of Scotland.