Reviresco in Loch Fyne

Today Kilfinan is a remote and wild landscape but...

www.canmore.org.uk (You will need to create an account to see the mapping)

...place an archaeological map over today's map and you will discover this area was once a near metropolis. There was an ancient dun or hill fort on...

 ...the hill to the north of the beach so we decided to climb up to it...

 ...passing clumps of spotted orchids on the way.

Today the remains of the dun are largely two semi circular walls about 30m across and not much above ground level, which date from the Iron Age. They were built by Celtic people in pre-Roman times. However, the site was inhabited until late mediaeval times with a succession of wooden buildings. It became known as Caisteal Mhic Eoghainn (Mac Ewan Castle) and was the base for the Ewan of Otter clan. There were multiple, unrelated MacEwan clans in Scotland and the Ewans of Otter and their land became subsumed into the Campbell clan after their last chief, Swene Mac Ewen, died in 1493.

There is a stone memorial with...

...a brass plaque on which the clan motto "Reviresco" is displayed. This means grow green (or young) again.

Well the former Mac Ewan lands have grown green again even though that branch of the clan died out. The castle certainly had a commanding position. This is the view down Loch Fyne and this is the view...

...view up Loch Fyne. The building by the shore is a 19th century salt house. Salt was needed to preserve the prodigious numbers of herring which were once found in the loch. Other herring were preserved by smoking...the Loch Fyne kipper. One branch of my family came from here and my great great grandfather MacCallum was a herring fisherman. His sons followed him but the fish ran out and they had to fish further and further afield. My great, great uncle was washed overboard and lost at sea in the Southern Ocean.

Loch Fyne herring drifters by William Lionel Wyllie (1851-1931)

The traditional Loch Fyne herring fishermen used sail and oar powered boats and drift nets but the introduction in the mid 19th century of steam trawlers (based in Tarbert and Campbeltown) increased the overfishing and there was bitter rivalry between the two types of fishermen. Violence ensued and the Royal Navy had to station HMS Porcupine (a 3 gun wooden steamer built in 1844) on the loch to keep the peace. My great grandfather gave up the sea and moved to Glasgow where he got a job with the Caledonian Railway company.

Rip roaring yarns at Kilfinan.

 The warm evening sun soon dried our things but as the sun began to sink and the shadows lengthened...

 ...the midges came out. David had set up his fancy new inflatable luxury camping armchair by the tents. Unfortunately so ferocious was the sudden midge attack that, as he lashed out at the invisible enemy, the whole contraption exploded and collapsed, leaving him stranded like an upturned tortoise. It would have been hilarious if we had not all been scrambling round for...

...our own midge jackets. After donning them we decided to cook on the shore where there were slightly fewer of the predators. We were certainly not top of the food chain that night.

 We soon got a rip roaring fire going and gathered...

 ...round to swap yarns and...

 ...roast potatoes in the embers.

Never mind the flames or the midges, rip roaring yarns lasted long into the summer night!

Gob smacked by the fine scenery at the mouth of Loch Fyne.

NW of Portavadie we came to a delightful number of islands. This isle is Eilean a' Bhuic. It lies off the beautiful...

...Glenan Bay which is backed by...

...verdant wooded hills above which a pair of eagles were gliding on a thermal.

Further north we came to all that remains of a great Iron Age dun called Caisteal Aoidhe which sits atop its little tidal island. Most people would not look twice at it but once you have an eye for such relics they are easy to spot.

Another isle, Eilean Buidhe, is surrounded by a maze of...

...low lying reefs and submerged skerries in which a colony of seals can be found.

As we paddled deeper into the confines of Loch Fyne we left the open waters of the Sound of Bute and the mountains of Arran far behind. We came to many bays and inlets. Loch Fyne is a great location for yacht racing and...

...in one remote bay we came across this racing yacht with an impossibly tall mast.

Between the bays the coast of Loch Fyne is characterised by bold rocky headlands that plunge steeply into the sea. Loch Fyne is the largest sea Loch in Scotland and was cut by a huge glacier. Just off this headland south of Auchalick Bay, the loch is 150m deep.

Auchalick Bay proved to be an ideal stop for third luncheon and a snooze in the sun...

...on the rocks above the sands. The sea pinks were in full flower.

  Further north we passed further rocky headlands such as this one at...

 ...the wonderfully named Gob a' Bharra.

After a long and tiring, day involving three luncheons, we made landfall for a camp at Kilfinan Bay. The site was sheltered from the northerly wind by a headland and we were soon perspiring. While the others set up their tents, I went for a quick swim which certainly cooled me down.

No restriction on draft at Portavadie Marina.

 From Asgog Bay, Mike and I took a little detour...

 ...round the island of Sgat Mor and its little lighthouse before turning north into the mouth of Loch Fyne, the biggest sea loch in Britain,...

 ...towards Portavadie Marina where we had...

 ...booked lunch for 12:30. The marina is the largest man made hole in the World. It was made to construct giant...

...concrete oil rigs even bigger than this one at nearby Ardyne, which I photographed when it was near complete in 1977.

 The huge dock cost £14 million to excavate in the late '70s but by the time it was completed the industry had moved on to cheaper steel rigs. Portavadie never built a single rig! For a while it was used by a fish farm but it has been home to the excellent Portavadie Marina for quite a few years now. The hole is so deep that the marina proudly boast "There is no restriction on draft"

We paddled to the head of the marina and there we met David and Phil. We had originally planned a trip to Islay or Tiree but last minute commitments meant David and Phil could only manage 2 days and one night. Mike and I then decided to go for a more local paddle so that David and Phil could join us.

Where better to meet than the Portavadie Marina restaurant and bar? No restriction on draft? We can test that. We'll start with four pints of Guinness please.

We decided to go for a two course dinner and I started with the Taste of “Argyll Smokery” seafood and shellfish, pickled vegetables, watercress and wasabi cream. Service was excellent, so what a great second luncheon, highly recommended.Yes, sea kayaking can be a most arduous activity when one can be exposed to great hardships.

Some considerable time passed before we set off once more on our sea kayaking exploration of Argyll's secret coast.