Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Crisis on Gigha (or gie us a lobster).

As we set off through the skerries to round the north end of Gigha, the Paps of Jura put in a very brief appearance. A rumble of engines...

 ...announced the passage of the MV Finlaggan on route from Islay to Kennacraig.

 The NE coast of Gigha is dominated by two very large fish farms but...

 ...the views round East Tarbert Bay are still very fine.

 As we passed Port nan Corran (port of the point of land running far into the sea) we saw yet another small creel boat moored in its shelter. Its creels were stowed well above high water mark, the significance of which would hit us later...

 The east coast gets more interesting again at the bold rocks of Ardminish Point. In the distance we could see the sun glowing behind the Mull of Kintyre. Indeed as we were shrouded in grey, my wife was basking in the Indian summer sunshine on the Solway.

We now entered Ardminish Bay and timed our arrival so that we could cross behind the MV Loch Ranza...

 ...as she departed for Tayinloan on Kintyre. The captain gave us a cheery wave from the wheelhouse.

Beyond the ferry jetty lay our destination, The Boathouse where we had dined so well on our last visit. Its door was open and we were salivating with the thought of a brace of juicy Gigha lobsters! Unfortunately as we drew closer we saw that the sign said

"0 Gigha lobsters left, closed till next season."

We had missed it by one day!!! AAARRRGH! So we just had to sit on the picnic table and eat our own wraps with hummus, cheese, olives and grapes. Healthy enough but not in the same league as fresh lobster!

So all was not well on Gigha but we survived. The island is now owned and run by the community but all is not well with that either. Debt has increased but on the positive side so has the population, housing stock and employment. I do hope things work out.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Findings one's niche in the NW of Gigha (by Royal Appointment).

We slipped into Wast Tarbert Bay where the sandy beaches of Camas Naireach (modest bay) lie under the rocky slopes of Creag Bhan which despite being only 100m above sea level is the highest point on Gigha. We met several other otters here and you can see a couple of seals trailing Ian.

At the NE end of Camas Naireach we found this remarkable tertiary dolerite dyke. This is the side view and...

This is the end on view.

Our journey north took us into the recess formed by the tombolo beach that has formed between Eilean Garbh and the mainland of Gigha.

It is a very beautiful spot, favoured by HM the Queen on her visits to the Western Isles on the Royal Yacht Britannia and latterly on the charter MV Hebridean Princess.

It is a hauntingly beatiful spot and the...

...north side of the beach is if anything even more beautiful whichever...

...way you look.

It was with some reluctance that we dragged ourselves away from the north beach. Talking of dragging...rumour has it that somewhere on Gigha a Royal changing box on wheels is in storage awaiting being dragged down to the beach for the next visit by Her Majesty to this wonderful spot.

Anyway, we returned to the south beach with our IKEA bags which...

...we filled with driftwood for the fire once we arrived back on Cara.

It really was a marvellous spot but the day was pressing on so we set off...

...round Eilean Garbh but landed again at...

...tiny Port Cuil (niche port) where we...

...gathered more firewood and looked for Groatie Buckies (cowrie shells).

As it was such a grey day it did not bring out the turquoise in the water, neither could we see the Paps of Jura. However nothing could detract from the beauty of our situation.