It was not just the tide that picked up when we left the shores of Jura. A nice little tail wind...
...added to our gathering momentum towards the Kintyre peninsula.
We were literally hurtled up the Sound and passed well to the north of the islets of Carraig an Daimh and Dubh Sgeir. Carraig an Daimh means "rock of the stag". I have several times seen deer swimming strongly in the sea but I did not know they knew how to work the tides!
We were not the only ones making good speed up the Sound of Jura. "Ailsa Craig" is a work boat belonging to Marine Harvest of Barra. She was built of aluminium in Croatia.
The swirling spring tides had carried us so fast up the Sound of Jura that Jura and Islay were now just distant memories.
We broke out of the tides in the Sound of Jura into the quieter waters of ...
...the narrow channel on the inside of Eilean Dubh...
...which always delights with its shallow, sandy bottom and frequent herons.
A final turn to the east took us back into Carsaig Bay where the white cottages and waiting car marked the end of our 46 hour mini adventure to Jura and Islay. As is often the case on a sea kayaking trip, we had entered a different time zone, one in which the passage of time was slowed and in which we both achieved and experienced much more than we could have reasonably expected. Indeed as we washed the salt from our eyes and cracked lips it seemed at least a week since we had left Carsaig,
After unpacking the boats we travelled home via Inveraray, where it would have been churlish not to stop at Mr Pia's for fish and chips!
In 46 hours we had paddled 96km and portaged for 2km. All in all a most satisfactory outing. On a previous trip, Tony and I turned north at the entrance to West Loch Tarbert on Jura and returned through the Corryvreckan. That was another superb outing, which I wrote up in issue 2 of Ocean Paddler magazine.
Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.
Friday, June 26, 2015
Thursday, June 25, 2015
Carried away by the tide in the Sound of Jura.
When we left Lowlandman's Bay on the east coast of Jura, the flood tide was already running north through the Sound of Jura and would be our ticket home to Carsaig Bay on the mainland. We took a last look to the SE at the long peninsula of Kintyre, which culminated in the Mull of Kintyre (at the extreme right of this photo) some 66km to the south.. The rocky mountains of Arran rose above the relatively low hulls of Kintyre. In the sky, streaks of gathering cirrus clouds fore told the wind that would arrive the next day.
As we travelled north, the view of the Paps of Jura became less anatomically correct with three (or even four) heaving above the horizon.
We passed the site of another Iron Age dun at the NE end of the peninsula, which nearly encloses Lowlandman's Bay.
To the NE, the Jura coast stretched away in a long succession of low headlands as far as the eye could see.
We followed the coast until we saw the wooded peninsula that marks the south side of Tarbert Bay where we had made landfall on Jura two nights previously. Then we struck out into the middle of the Sound of Jura to catch the full force of the tide.
It was sad to be leaving Jura after such a rewarding but brief visit and once...
...the tide in the Sound caught us, it carried us quickly away.
As we travelled north, the view of the Paps of Jura became less anatomically correct with three (or even four) heaving above the horizon.
We passed the site of another Iron Age dun at the NE end of the peninsula, which nearly encloses Lowlandman's Bay.
To the NE, the Jura coast stretched away in a long succession of low headlands as far as the eye could see.
We followed the coast until we saw the wooded peninsula that marks the south side of Tarbert Bay where we had made landfall on Jura two nights previously. Then we struck out into the middle of the Sound of Jura to catch the full force of the tide.
It was sad to be leaving Jura after such a rewarding but brief visit and once...
...the tide in the Sound caught us, it carried us quickly away.