Crossing the Rubicon in the Dorus Mor

We paddled out of the shady confines of the hills surrounding Loch Crinan and emerged into a sunlit Sound of Jura.


The unmistakable outline of the Paps of Jura defined the horizon to the south west.


We were now in the narrowing northern reaches of the Sound of Jura and the full force of the spring tide was accelerating us towards the tidal channel called the Dorus Mor (the Big Door).


We were harnessing the gravitational energy of the solar system. We were were set on a voyage, like an interplanetary probe that uses the gravitational pull of one planet to accelerate past and slingshot on to the pull of another. But in our case, islands replaced the planets.


As we approached Garbh Reisa, we were about to cross the Rubicon point, beyond which it was not possible to break out of the current. After that point we would be at the mercy of the tides and could only go where they wished to take us!


We were now in the grip of tidal forces that propelled us through the Dorus Mor at 18km/hr.


Once through the Dorus Mor, the tide floods past the little island of Reisa an t-Struith before its headlong dash towards the jaws of the great Gulf of Corryvreckan and its waiting whirlpool...

En route from Crinan, bound for...?

On a cold frosty morning in mid October, we found ourselves in Crinan on the west coast of Scotland's long Kintyre peninsula. We had come here because a floating pontoon would allow me to get easy access to the water despite my injured knee.


Crinan is the launch point for many peoples' nautical adventures.


It is at the north west end of its eponymous canal, which links the Firth of Clyde to the Sound of Jura by cutting across the Kintyre peninsula.


The Mull of Kintyre lies over 90km to the SSW, so for many the canal is a shortcut, which also avoids one of the most notorious tidal headlands on Scotland's west coast.


We left Loch Crinan with hardly a sideways glance at Duntrune Castle. Where were we bound for...?

Farewell to Islay, Oronsay, Colonsay and Jura

Sadly, it was now time to say farewell to the fabulous islands of Islay, Oronsay, Colonsay and Jura. We stayed out on the observation deck of the MV Hebridean Isles. We were lost in our thoughts of rocky mountains, dazzling sands, raised beaches and caves, ancient buildings and traces of our ancestors which went back 9,000 years!


As the ferry made her way down the Sound of Islay, we caught sight of the distant rocky ridges of Arran, on the far side of the Kintyre peninsula. This brought back other memories of fine paddles earlier in the year. After a while we went down to the dining room for a Calmac chicken curry!


By the time we reemerged on deck, we had crossed the Sound of Jura and were making our way up the Kintyre West Loch Tarbert. Gigha floated dreamily on the SW horizon, recalling yet more great paddling adventures. By now it really was the end of our adventure but living as we do in sea kayaking paradise, we knew it would not be too long until we off on yet another adventure.


Allowing for 2 half day ferry crossings, we enjoyed 3 full days' paddling over the 4 days of our trip. We covered 109km, which averages just 36km per day.

I hope you have enjoyed this virtual paddle in the Inner Hebrides and if you have never visited Scotland before, I hope that one day it might tempt you to visit.

Ferry gliding in the Sound of Islay

We ferry glided across the Sound of Islay to the Islay side once more. The crossing happened at a dizzying rate...


...and before we knew it we were back in Port Askaig. We had to break out into an eddy to let the MV Eilean Dhiura, the Jura ferry, make her complex approach to her jetty in the full force of the spring ebb tide. The jetty is several hundred yards behind her!


All too soon, we were back ashore on Port Askaig, Islay. We did not have long to wait until the Islay ferry, the MV Hebridean Isles, gently reversed across the eddy line into her berth.


The disembarkation and loading were completed in only 30 minutes. The Hebridean Isles nosed out into the flow and allowed the tide to turn her bow to the south. Our expedition in the southern Inner Hebrides was now all but over...

Raised sea stacks and river valleys on Jura's SW coast

The SW coast of Jura that faces the Sound of Islay has a very complex structure which reveals several past beach levels. Above the current beach there are numerous sea stacks and the base of a cliff which were cut when sea levels were higher.


About 10,000 years ago the beach was at the top of the cliff line. The weight of the ice sheet caused the Earth's crust under Scotland to sink into the magma below. As the ice melted the land started to rise and is still rising today. Meltwater from the retreating glaciers has cut steep V shaped ravines through the cliff line below the raised beaches. If these valleys had been cut by glaciers they would have been U shaped.


The tide had now picked up to a very pleasant 10km/hour and we were ably to relax and enjoy the view knowing we would make Port Askaig and the ferry in plenty of time.


We started a ferry glide across the Sound of Islay once we approached the small Carragh an t-Sruith lighthouse. It has a white flash every 3 seconds.

Sea eagles, basalt dykes and raised beaches on Jura's SW coast

Once round Rubh' a' Chrois-aoinidh, we had left Loch Tarbert on Jura and now entered the Sound of Islay. We still had 14.5km to go till we reached Port Askaig and there was only two hours until we had to be on the ferry. There was some anxiety within the party. However, our detour round Loch Tarbert had allowed the tide to turn and the ebb would accelerate us down the Sound with time to spare!


The south west coast of Jura is spectacular with several beach levels. Above us, a pair of sea eagles soared effortlessly on the updraught from the cliffs. One had a yellow wing tag. I am not sure if they were the established pair, from the other side of Jura, or a pair of courting youngsters.


As we approached Brein Phort (stinking harbour) we could see a great basalt dyke which marched down the hill right into the sea. A continuation of this dyke reemerges from the sea on the other side of the Sound of Islay, just north of the Rhuvaal lighthouse.


As we drew closer, we could see a hole through the dyke which formed a natural arch.


We did not have long to admire this natural wonder...


...we were now in the grip of the ebb tide and we were soon whisked past.

Enchanted by a perfect Pap on Jura

We rounded Rubh' a' Bhàillein (rock of the twigs) to witness the splendid prospect of the remote south shore of Loch Tarbert in Jura.


A succession of dazzling white strands were backed by a series of raised beaches and cliffs.


Behind them all the shapely mass of Beinn Shiantaidh (757m) heaved towards the blue vault of the sky. There are several translations of her Gaelic name but I much prefer "The Enchanted Mountain."


At her feet lay the Lord Astor's Victorian shooting lodge, Glenbatrick. This time, no one was home but we had met the good Lord and his party some 2 years before.


We were now approaching Rubh' a' Chrois-aoinidh (rock of the cross-cliff) which marks the mouth of Loch Tarbert.


In the distance, across the Sound of Islay, lay Rhuvaal lighthouse at the northernmost point of Islay. We were nearly at the end of our voyage...

A raised beach on Loch Tarbert, Jura

We had reached half way to the head of Loch Tarbert in Jura. We were by the first of two tidal narrows which restrict access to the inner recesses of the loch. The water here was not very salty and was stained brown by peat but there was no sign of a river.


We emerged onto the huge raised beach of Camas Nam Meann which is a favourite spot of mine.


The pebbles which make up this beach rise in a huge bank 30m above current sea level.


They then descend to 18m and hold back the fresh but peat stained waters of Lochan Maol an t-Sornàich. The waters of the loch which gradually filter through this huge beach are the source of the peat stained water at the edge of Loch Tarbert,


A few patches of vegetation have managed to take root over the 10,000 years since the tides last reached this level.


From our vantage spot, we could see Oronsay (and its house) and Colonsay on the horizon. It would have been a lovely spot to have enjoyed a leisurely lunch. However, we still had 19km to paddle back to Port Askaig and our ferry was due leave in only a few hours.

Thwarted by the young guardian of the Royal Cave, Jura

It might have only have been 9:40am (and we might only have had time for first breakfast) but all four of us reported for launching/photographic duties...


...and soon the kayaks were afloat and waiting to transport us on a tour of Loch Tarbert, Jura. This must be one of the most beautiful but infrequently visited of all the Scottish sea lochs.


We left Ruantallain and travelled east along a line of raised beaches and cliffs with dry caves.


Apart from ourselves the only signs of human life were the contrails of trans Atlantic jets flying on the Great Circle route.


We were going to land at Uamh Righ, the Royal Cave, but grey seals were pupping along the shore and so we kept our distance. The cave has been inhabited since the Bronze age
but during the Christian period up until the Reformation the cave held a special significance in the burial rights of people who died on the mainland. The cave was on the funeral routes to Oronsay Priory and Iona Abbey. If storms prevented crossing to the islands the bodies were left in the cave until such time as the weather improved. There are still many crosses carved on the walls of the cave.


Only partially disappointed at not being able to land at the cave, we continued on our journey into the loch. We looked south to the beautiful sands of Glen Battrick Bay but we did not stop. Our destination lay further east, towards the outer narrows of the Loch....

Sun rise at Ruantallain beach, Jura

Slowly the sun rose over the ridge formed by the giant raised beach...


... and warmed the sands of Ruantallain.


Down on the beach there were fewer midges, so we cooked breakfast beside the kayaks.


The beaches at the mouth of Loch Tarbert are like those four on Colonsay and Oronsay, which are ranked in the top 20 Scottish Highland and Island beaches. We had now been on five out of the twenty in the last three days!

We sat admiring the view and warmed ourselves in the early morning sun like lizards, in preparation for the exertions ahead.

A new dawn on the fossil rock glacier of Beinn Shiantaidh, Jura

Before dawn there was not a breath of wind to disturb Loch Tarbert on Jura. The humidity was very high and condensation was everywhere.


The sun had not yet hit the summits of the Paps of Jura and it was still too cold for the midges to make their appearance.


Then slowly the Sun's rays shone through the coll between Corra Bheinn (573m) and Beinn Shiantaidh (757m) and warmed its summit slopes. This coll is the site of a very unusual geological structure on the Shiantaidh side. There is a fossil rock glacier at the base of the large (sunlit) scree slope above. It formed between 11,000 and 10,000 years ago and is thought to be evidence of low altitude permafrost in this part of Scotland at that time.


As the sun continued to rise, it caught the NLV Polar Star as she was preparing to leave the loch. Some of us were not exactly ready to weigh anchor...