Friday, January 23, 2015

A long journey north.

The Scottish winter has been pretty tough so far but at last a break in the weather caused Mike and I to meet up with Ian on the west coast. For various reasons revolving round orthopaedic surgery, I had not been far north of Glasgow since early 2013, so I was rather looking forward to this trip.

We had a much easier drive than Ian who was travelling over from the north east.Our route over Rannoch Moor and...

 ...through Glen Coe was thankfully clear of snow. Mike took these photos as I was keeping my eye on the road.

 The mountains were looking in great condition.


 I took up sea kayaking because I was finding mountaineering increasingly difficult due to painful dislocations of my knees. I had last been high in these hills in early 2001 when I climbed one of the gullies high in the summit cliffs at the head of the corrie in the middle of this photo.

Unfortunately my knee dislocated twice during the climb of SC Gully and so it became my last winter climb. It had also been one of my first winter climbs in 1973. I have missed getting into the winter hills. I spent last winter...

  ...learning how to climb stairs...


...after my second knee operation.

 Anyway it was too late to go out on the water so after we met Ian, we decided  to nip up a little hill...


 ...called Ardsheal Hill. It is only 263m high but I was really quite pleased to get up (and down) it.

 Being on the shores of Loch Linnhe it had wonderfull views to the NE and...

 ...the SW.  The islands of Eilean Balnagowan,...

 ...Shuna and Lismore looked very inviting. We made plans while we descended in the winter gloaming.

You can follow our winter adventures in stereovision by also following Ian's blog.


Big boats and little boats in Brodick Bay.

As we paddled into Brodick Bay in the sunset, we were not alone. A Royal Navy type 23 frigate was exercising in the Firth. She is possibly HMS Somerset who has been involved in tracking a Russian submarine in the approaches to the Firth of Clyde.

 Next we came across two tankers. Askholmen and...

 ...Bro Deliverer. Both were waiting to go up to the terminal at Finnart on Loch Long.

 We slipped unnoticed along the hull of Bro Deliverer from stern past...

 ...midships...

...to her bow. From her anchorage it was only a short distance to the...
 
 Brodick ferry terminal. We did not have long to wait until our ferry home, MV Caledonian Isles, arrived at her berth.

It had been a fantastic winter day during which we had covered 30km and introduced another paddler, Maurice, to paddle sailing. It could not get much better, or colder...or could it?

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Despite the approach of darkness and the ferry, we stopped to savour the view of the mountains.

We launched from the sands of Sannox with the hope that we might be able to paddle  sail all the way down the east coast of Arran to Brodick.

 By the time we got to Corrie the sun was setting behind the hills and as it did so...

 ...the wind dropped and wood smoke from village stoves hung in the air. The flood, north going tide can make this stretch take longer than planned and we had a ferry to catch!

For a while we paddled in the shade of the North Goatfell ridge and the temperature plummeted. From here we got a good view of the lip of the hanging valley or corrie after which the village of Corrie takes its name.

The mountains fell away as we reached Merkland Point, the northern limit of Brodick Bay and the sun reappeared for...

 ...a few precious warming minutes.
 
 As we swung round into the openness of the bay...

The soaring south ridge of Goatfell rose above the trees.

Although we needed to press on to catch the ferry it was...

 ...hard to resist the temptation to repeatedly stop, look back and savour the view of snowy mountains that had dominated our day.

Monday, January 12, 2015

Splendid, snowy, soaring scenery, serenity and successful paddle sailing to Sannox on a Sunday.

 As we approached Arran...

...the snow topped granite ridges of Glen Sannox soared higher and...

...higher above us. You could travel half way round the globe and still not find scenery to match, yet it is right here on our doorstep. It is not just the scenery that delights the eye on this crossing. On this occasion we saw porpoises and on previous crossings to Arran, we have seen common dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, minke whales and basking sharks not to mention numerous otters round the shore..

In the lee of  the Cock of Arran, Sannox Bay was like a millpond. It was hard to believe we had so much fun out in mid channel.

The winter storms had stripped a lot of the sand off the beach since our last visit but all was calm when we arrived.

We wasted no time in unpacking our things for as well deserved second luncheon and a dram of 10 year old Jura to celebrate Maurice's successful induction to the world of paddle sailing!

Sunday, January 11, 2015

The Cock of Arran was pointing to the distant Paps of Jura.

We set off from Garroch Head on Bute on the 11km crossing to Sannox on Arran in...

...glorious conditions.

 As we cleared the end of Bute a...

 ...lovely wind filled in from the west and we...

 ...were soon enjoying paddle sailing with...

... one of the best views in the world, which looks straight up...

 ...Glen Sannox to the wonderfully symmetrical cone of Cir Mhor at its head.

Once clear of Bute the wind was steady and we made great speed.

In mid channel the wind picked up to a force 4, which was blowing against the incoming tide and so it got a bit lumpy to take my Canon 5D Mk3 out of its waterproof deck bag. So there is now a short intermission without photos but it was cracking fun!

Maurice was on his first day out with his new Flat Earth kayak sail and as we were on a close reach, the conditions were quite challenging for a newcomer to kayak sailing. However, Maurice proved to be a quick learner and by the time we were two thirds of the way across...

 ...the conditions flattened again as the tide lessened.

 It was one of the most enjoyable crossings of the Sound of Bute I have ever done.

 Conditions continued to moderate as we...

...drew into the wind shadow of the Cock of Arran which was pointing to....

...the distant Paps of Jura, which were heaving above the horizon some 63km away to the NW.

Saturday, January 03, 2015

Sea kayaking desktop wallpaper calendar 2015.

Welcome to the 11th annual sea kayaking desktop calendar from seakayakphoto.com! Like 2013, my 2014 has had somewhat restricted paddling. Recovering from several major health problems, caring for my mother in her final illness and then being executor to her estate have all taken their toll on my paddling time. However, what paddling I was able to do was of the finest order and with the best of friends and so quality has made up for quantity. This year all the photos are taken in local waters, all a short drive from home. You can follow the links to Dropbox and download  high resolution photos for your computer or tablet desktop wallpaper in either 4x3 or 8x5 format.

January.
Leaving Portencross Castle before mid winter dawn. Short winter days in Scotland mean an early start and we often launch and land in the dark. From Portencross, we have set off for the islands of the Firth of Clyde: the Great and Little Cumbraes, Bute, Inchmarnock and Arran. Each is a unique adventure.
Link to 8:5 desktop 1920 x 1200.
Link to 4:3 desktop 2048 x 1540.

February.
Paddle sailing on a winter crossing to Arran. Our 30km route took us via Garroch Head on Bute then on this fabulous 11 km crossing to Sannox at the north end of Arran. This must be one of the most scenic rossings in Scotland. In winter we arrive in Brodick after sunset then get the ferry back to Ardrossan.
Link to 8:5 desktop 1920 x 1200.
Link to 4:3 desktop 2048 x 1540.

March.
Setting off from the reefs of Lendalfoot on the 14km crossing to the isolated and uninhabited granite island of Ailsa Craig. It lies in an exposed position and the nearest point of land is Lendalfoot. Weather conditions can change rapidly here and we had wind against tide conditions on our return. I capsized while paddle sailing across the Bennane Head tide race about a kilometre offshore. Even though it was sunny and I was back paddle sailing in only a few minutes, I was glad I was wearing a dry suit as the water temperature was only 9C. Anyway it did not put me off returning to Ailsa Craig a further two times (three times in all) in 2014.

April.
We set off across the Kilbrannan Sound from Kintyre to Arran in thick, gloomy fog. It unexpectedly began to clear when we were about 3/4 of the way across. It was like paddling between a day of two halves.
Link to 8:5 desktop 1920 x 1200.

May.
Pinks and plantains at Pladda. The delightful island of Pladda lies off the southern tip of its much larger neighbour Arran. It is protected by swirling tides but with its Stevenson lighthouse and teeming bird life, is a joy to visit. There are so many nesting birds covering the ground (and the lighthouse cottages are a private residence) that it would not be easy to camp there in the nesting season. We usually camp at nearby Kildonan on Arran

June.
The heather growing on Brown Head on Arran means that it is indeed usually brown. However, in early summer, fresh fronds of bracken add a splash of green. The waters are delightfully clear and on this June day warm enough for swimming in a little bay beyond the head. We passed this way twice this year. Once on a clockwise circumnavigation of Arran in March and once en route from Kintyre to Ailsa Craig in June.
July.
Ailsa Craig is a haven for breeding birds the SW and W cliffs soar steeply from the sea and their high ledges are host to tens of thousands of gannets, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars. Lower down there are colonies of puffins, shags and cormorants. This congregation of cormorants had gathered at Ashydoo Church. No visitor to Ailsa Craig should forget to bring a broad brimmed hat.

August.
Cleats Shore on Arran enjoys some fine views like this one to Ailsa Craig, some 23 km to the SE. It is also one of the few naturist beaches in Scotland. There was no one there on our visit so Ailsa got our full and undivided attention.

September.
We often see the PS Waveley on our travels. She was built in Glasgow in 1947 for the Craigendorran to Arrochar run but was retired in 1974. Since 1975 she has been operated as a tourist attraction and is now the last sea going paddle steamer in the World. We saw her to the north of Arran in the Sound of Bute in the evening calm that followed a very windy and wet paddle up the Kilbrannan Sound. She is one of our larger fellow paddlers!
Link to 8:5 desktop 1920 x 1200.

October.
Back in October I paddled out into Wigtown Bay beyond the Islands of Fleet. The wind steadily dropped to nothing but these strange clouds bubbled up from the Machars peninsula and drifted over distant Burrow Head at the mouth of the Bay.

November.
Paddle sailing is a whole heap of fun. This is going through the tide race off the south end of Pladda. If you only make one sea kayaking resolution in 2015, it should be to give paddle sailing a try!

December.
As the winter sun set behind Great Cumbrae and Arran, Duncan Winning and I enjoyed a long chat about kayaking history. At last we went our separate ways as darkness fell. In 1964 Duncan made the first accurate drawings of the kayak Ken Taylor brought to Scotland in 1960 from Illorsuit in West Greenland. This kayak which was made by Emanuele Korniliussen in 1959 is now in the Kelvingrove museum in Glasgow, Scotland. Duncan's drawings were used to create the Anas Acuta, which was a great influence in what was to become the British style of recreational touring sea kayak.
Link to 4:3 desktop 2048 x 1540.

I wish all readers of seakayakphoto.com a great paddling year in 2015 and thank you for visiting.
Douglas Wilcox.