Commitment off the Rinns of Islay.

Leaving the shelter of Portnahaven at slack water, we entered the channel between Islay and the offshore islands of Orsay and Eilean Mhic Coinnich. Despite being "slack", the north going tide was already ripping through the channel at 3 knots.

The islands and the Stevenson lighthouse on Orsay were soon left astern and we were now committed, there could be no turning back.

We were whisked past a curious concrete structure. This is the Islay experimental Limpet wave generator.

We were now  on the open Atlantic. The photographs do not give a true idea of just how rough it was. It was obvious to us that we were not going to be landing on the surf beaches. Lossit Bay was "smoking" as the cross off wind blew the crests off the back of the surf sets.

Gannets, heavily laden with fish, were using the shelter of the cliff line to make their way south towards their hungry chicks on Alisa Craig, which was over 100km away.

Off Lossit Point, the sea was even rougher. The rocks of Beinn Seasaimh, 139m, fell steeply into the sea and it was pretty obvious we were not going to be able to land until we had cleared the west coast of the Rinns of Islay, after paddling for 25km...

Through the Maze to Ceann a' Mhara

South of the amazing beach that the Tiree surfers call "The Maze" (it is actually Traigh Thodhrasdail) lies the real Maze...

it is an incredible series of skerries and channels which lie to the north of Bharrapol Bay and the imposing headland of Ceann a' Mhara. Inside we were protected from the swell that the surfers were now enjoying...

...but as we emerged into Bharrapol Bay we were reminded of the presence of the surf.

At 103m Ceann a' Mhara is the third highest point on Tiree. Quite a distinction as Tiree only has three high points!

We had timed our arrival for slack water. If we had arrived with the north going tide against a NE wind, then it would have been somewhat bouncier than we experienced.

Once round the headland, we found a rocky cove sheltered from the swell.

It was now time for a well deserved third breakfast!

Up before the surf dudes on Tiree's Maze.

Leaving Hough Bay, we paddled through the skerries that lie off the westernmost point of Tiree, Rubha Chraiginis. The north going tide was still flowing through the channels against us.

We stopped for a rest in this little inlet on the sheltered south side of the point. Unfortunately the beach below the water was very steeply shelving with very slippy boulders. I half fell out of the kayak and it took both David and Phil to recover me. It was the worst wrench to my bad knee since the operation and it could have been serious if it was not for their speedy help. Thanks guys!

From the top of the rise behind the beach we could look back at the way we had come with the Cuillin of Skye in the distance.

21km away to the SSW we could just make out the Skerryvore lighthouse on the horizon.

We now set off in a southerly direction down Tiree's west coast. The NNE wind was cross off at "The Maze" as the surf dudes call Traigh Thodhrasdail. The surf was about 4 feet so there were a lot of boardies emerging from their camper vans for what, for them, was an early morning surf (but we had been paddling for 2.5 hours! David and I whipped up our sails and we could see several dudes rubbing their eyes in disbelief!

It was great fun sailing and paddling along the beach, just beyond the surf zone. Judging by the stares, the surfers had clearly never seen a sea kayak with a sail!

All to soon we left the beautiful Maze beach and the surf dudes behind.

Sea kayaking the SW and W coasts of Hirta, St Kilda

The SW coast of Hirta falls sheer into the sea. Despite the sea level being unchanged for about 6,000 years and being exposed to one of the greatest average wave energies in the British Isles, there is no wave cut platform though there are many geos, arches and caves.

We were paddling NW towards the gap between Soay and Hirta, where we had arranged a rendezvous with the MV Cuma.

It was too rough for even Gordon to paddle through the arch at the foot of Mullach Bi (which we had looked down upon the previous day). However, Gordon and Callum went through a gap in the skerries, which had monstrous swells breaking through.

This wasn't enough for Gordon so he found an offshore skerry with a gap...

...that had jagged teeth at the bottom. After studying it for a while, he nipped round the outside...

...then successfully powered through before...

...the swell receded revealing those teeth.

Turning a corner, we now paddled below the equally dramatic west coast of Hirta.

Ken was doing a lot of paddling in the double as Simon, up front, shouted directions as he filmed our progress.

We now approached Soay Sound and we could see Murdani in the Cuma scouting the conditions beyond the stacs.

We had arrived early because the swell had precluded detailed exploration of all the arches and caves.

Murdani had judged that the tide race through the gaps between Soay, Stac Biorach 73m, Soay Stac 61m and An Campar 270m on Hirta was not still not conducive to safe sea kayaking. So he motored over to the SE coast of Soay and prepared a lunch for us while we waited for slack water by the stacs. One by one, we paddled across Soay Sound towards the Cuma.

Ian enjoys paddling the Etain in front of Soay Stac, on the way to a luncheon stop with a difference!.

Waving goodbye to Oban.

Oban harbour is a busy place. MV Isle of Cumbrae was heading out to Lismore while...


MV Lord of the Isles was making her way in from Mull.


The harbour has a very narrow entrance and the basic rule is that sea kayaks keep right out of the way.


The ferries make an announcement on channel 16 just before they enter the narrows...


...which gives just enough time to position yourself ready to surf their bow waves!

Sea kayaking desktop wallpaper calendar, May 2010

May. A tricky landing, Portandea, Firth of Clyde.

The seakayakphoto.com May desktop wallpaper calendar is now available for download here.

Where did that come from?

There we were, enjoying our sandwiches, when all of a sudden dark lines appeared out to sea.


Then Whumff.... surf crashed onto the beach.


There was a scramble for the boats (well those that were able) and Billy was first to wet his bows in the small but perfectly formed surf.

A little splash of water to wake you up in the morning

Fortunately our beach was protected by some offshore reefs...


... and so was protected from the shore break that was hitting nearby Kiloran Bay. We launched without much fuss...


...so why is David looking so concerned?


Well, we had to break through a narrow gap in the reef and every so often a little wave would make a wee splash.

Surf's up at Kiloran Bay, Colonsay

During the night, I heard the surf getting up. It sounded so close, I got up to check the kayaks but they were well above the tide line. Phil didn't hear any surf as he was deafened by David's snoring. Come to that, maybe it wasn't surf that I had heard either.


The great sweep of Kiloran Bay stretched away...


..as we strolled along the edge of the sea looking for shells.


By the time we had made our way back the tide had come up bringing with it the surf!


It might be an interesting launch.