A beach named desire.

We left the dark gneiss rocks of Iona and Eilean Annraidh and dodged the high speed tour boats in the Sound of Iona. This is Staffa Tours MV Ullin of Staffa. In the background you can see The Dutchman's Cap  or Bac Mor in the Treshnish Isles. It is a former volcano and consists of a central volcanic plug surrounded by a sill of basalt.

 On the east side of the Sound of Mull we returned to pink granite bedrock and the delightful village of Kintra which is derived from the gaelic Ceann Traigh or head of the beach. My good friend, colleague and former climbing partner, the late Dr John Tolmie and his partner bought one of these cottages. He hoped I would get him started sea kayaking but sadly he died in a climbing accident in March 2014 before we could get on the water. What a loss, I have no doubt he would have taken to sea kayaking.

 We were headed for Market Bay on the...

 ...north shore of the Ross of Mull.

 We floated in to the eastern most beach of the two beaches that open from the bay.

 The sands here were devoid of visitors though the...

 ...other beach Traigh na Margaidh (market beach) often has walkers. The beach we landed on is more difficult to access and is called Traigh Eilean an t-Santachaidh (beach of the island of lust). Why our ancestors called this remote spot the beach of the island of lust I cannot begin to imagine.

 Traigh Eilean an t-Santachaidh is a truly exceptional beach with...

 ...bold tors of pink granite backed by dunes topped by...

 ...green machair which falls away to a...

 ...beach of perfect pinkish sand which reputedly reflects...

...your heart's desire when wet.

Paddle strokes in the wake of the brush strokes of the colourists at Eilean Annraidh.

 

We were now paddling towards the north end of Iona and the dark reefs of Eilean Annraidh (commonly thought to be island of the storm but may also mean island of the prince).

We were not the only ones enjoying the waters of Iona. This is MV Benmore Lady the Benmore Estate's motor yacht.

Donald nipped ahead in his F-RIB to our next rendezvous at...

 ...the truly stunning tombola beach at the east end of Eilean Annraidh. The quality of the light here is remarkable and produces vivid contrasting colours in the clear water of the sea ranging from ultramarine to green to turquoise. The dark rocks also contrast with the dazzling white sand and the deep blue of the sky contrasts with the white and grey of clouds thrown up by distant Ben More.

 We drifted slowly into the beach wanting to savour the moment as long as possible.

 The water was so clear that we almost felt we were floating in air above the sand and rocks on the sea bed.

We had this amazing spot to ourselves but just across the water...

 ...on Iona the beaches were crawling with tourists.

We spent some time beachcombing for pebbles and cowries before...

...enjoying this view over our second luncheon. Even though you have never been here you might find it strangely familiar, especially if you grew up in Scotland in the 1950's. In the years of austerity following WW2 there had been few  ornaments in peoples' houses but as the economy improved so did the desire to hang things on the wall. Many chose three flying ceramic mallard ducks. However, in some homes a print of a painting by one of the Scottish colourists was the order of the day.  Eilean Annraidh was particularly popular as in this...

 ..painting by Cadell or...

...this one by Peploe. Their bold brush strokes and contrasting colours were influenced by the French impressionists but there is an accuracy in their painting which still allows individual rock formations on the beach to be identified over 100 years after they were painted.

Tides, blow holes and rock gardens on the west coast of Iona

 We were now paddling north up Iona's west coast. Grey slabs of gneiss dip into the Atlantic forming...

 ...headland after headland.

 The ebb tide was now running against us and inside Stac an Aoineidh (steep stack) we had to paddle rather hard but...

 ...we were soon back to more relaxed steady paddling until we came to...

...the Spouting Cave which was heard well before we saw it. The cave is a blow hole and was in fact breathing very gently when we passed by. It must be awesome in a storm.

After leaving the booming Spouting Cave behind, we continued along the coast while...

...Donald zoomed off to explore some offshore reefs in his F-Rib.

At Port Ceann na Creige (port of the rocky headland) we came across this beautiful wooden yacht, Wild Rose. We had seen her the previous evening anchored at Tinker's Hole on the Ross of Mull.

I have passed Wild Rose quite a few times on my travels and have seen her moored at Carsaig Bay and also Tayvallich. The owner is obviously a proper sailor. Not only is she beautifully maintained and fitted out but this bay is a rock garden. Wild Rose's davits were empty and her dinghy was by the shore. Talking of which, it was about time we stretched our legs on the shore...

Erraid and Tinker's Hole

 We set off from Fidden campsite through a maze of...

 ..pink granite skerries.

Donald kept well out in his little RIB but we...

 ...were able to paddle through the shallows where the water was as clear as green glass.

We reached the rocky shore of Erraid. Alan is looking at the cottages which were built for the keepers of the Dubh Artach lighthouse and later the keepers of the Skerryvore lighthouse joined them when the Skerryvore shore station at Hynish in Tiree closed. The lighthouse engineer was Thomas Stevenson, father of the author Robert Louis Stevenson (more about him in the next post).

 High above Lorna on the skyline of Erraid, the white dome of...

 ...the lighthouse signal tower looks out over the  Sea of the Hebrides to the distant lights.

As we paddled round the pink granite shore of Erraid it was baking hot especially when we entered the narrow windless channel of the Tinker's Hole. Ian is down to a T shirt but was still too hot.

We caught up with Donald who had stopped on a tidal sand spit to photograph the signal station.

He passed us again as there is a deep channel through the gap.

 Tinkers Hole is a well known yacht anchorage as it is well sheltered given the otherwise exposed position of the Ross of Mull.

 We took our time as we were...

 ...in no hurry to leave...

 ...this magical place of cool green sea and...

 ...and warm pink rock but all too soon...

 ...we left the confines of Tinker's Hole and...

...exited onto the exposed south coast of Erraid.