A Viking boat burial with a view.

Leaving Fascadale, the SE wind had dropped considerably and we enjoyed the view to the Small Isles Rum and Eigg.

The coastline here was lower than further west but...
 

 ...inland rose to the rocky summit ridge of Ben Hiant, 528m.

 As we journeyed east the distinctive profiles of Rum and Eigg slowly slid past each other.

 A continuing feature of the north Adnamurchan coast is the sparsity of landing places.

Mike's skeg had jammed so we were pleased to find a small sheltered cove called Port an Eilean Mhoir...

 ...at the head of Swordle Bay. Whenever we find a landing place like this we know that it has been used by generations of travellers before us. It is always interesting to discover what archaeology lies in the immediate vicinity. In this case, there is a Viking boat burial, dating from the 9th or 10th century, just behind the beach.

We soon got Mike's skeg functioning again and...

...had time to appreciate the beauty of our surroundings.

 I loved the way the clouds seemed to radiate from the volcanic rocks of Eilean Mhoir.

We sat for a while...

 ...enjoying the view over to...

 Rum, Eigg and...

...Skye. It is humbling to think of the generations of mariners who have enjoyed this view, both before and after the Swordle Bay Viking last sailed these waters.

Deadly waves north of Fascadale.

As we paddled east along the north Ardnamurchan coast the view to the north was dominated by the islands of the Inner Hebrides, low lying Muck, mountainous Rum, Eigg with its distinctive Sgurr and in the distance the mountains of Skye.

It was not a view that held our attention for long though as the rocky ramparts of Ardnamurchan are...

 ...protected by underwater ledges and skerries which...

 ...throw up sudden and unexpected waves called boomers.

 So dangerous is this coast for small boats that we did not see a single lobster pot until we eventually...

 ...rounded a wild headland and saw the houses at the head of Fascadale Bay.

In July 2009 a tragic accident occurred in which the FV Aquila from Cumbria capsized about 4km north of this spot. She was trawling for scallops near the Bo Faskadale reef when her trawl snagged and she was capsized by huge following seas. Sadly, only one of her four crew survived. In a flood tide and westerly swell locals know that large standing waves often form in the area of the reef. The charts and sailing directions did not mention these but UKHO have since amended both to include a warning.

 It was a relief to get some shelter from the swell and waves and...

...we carried our luncheon things up the steep storm beach of cobbles to a grassy bank below the old boathouse.

A great stone ship on north Ardnamurchan.

As we paddled east along the great finger of the Ardnamurchan peninsula we heard whistles and cries being carried over the water by the SE wind. High on the shoulder of Meal Clach an Daraich we spotted a shepherd. His dog was rounding up two groups of sheep. The first can be seen below and to the right of the shepherd. The other group and the dog are down among the giant boulders by the shore. That dog was working for his supper.

 Ahead lay the clean blade of rock...

 ...at Rubha Carrach. It looked like the...

 ...bow of a great stone ship.

 The big swell meant that...

 ...we were unable to approach...

 ...this iconic landmark of the north Ardnamurchan coast...

...too closely. Rubha Carrach is on the rim of a giant volcanic caldera that can be easily seen in this Google maps satellite view.

Appearances can be deceptive on Ardnamurchan.

We paddled out of Sanna Bay into the exposed waters north of Ardnamurchan. The lighthouse could be seen behind us but we were...

 ...heading east to Ardtoe through...

 ...the Sanna skerries.

Rounding Sanna Point we were rewarded with a...

...wonderful view of the Ardnamurchan peninsula stretching away to the distant hills of Moidart.

We turned south after Rubha an Duin Bhain as we hoped to land on its delightful sandy beach but at mid tide it is a garden of barely submerged rocks washed by swells. Sadly, we  had to leave without landing on its fair sands.