The standing stones of Callanish.

Not very far from Dun Carloway, on the shores of Loch Rog, lies the stone circle of Calanais (Callanish).


I have posted about these ancient stones before.


Every time I visit Loch Rog (Roag)...


...something draws me back to this mysterious place which our ancestors created by the sea.

06/06/2008

Dun Carloway

High on a hill above Loch Rog in Lewis an amazing structure seems to grow out of the ancient rocks. It is the Iron Age broch of Dun Charlabhaigh (Dun Carloway). It was built over 2,000 years ago.


Most of its stones have been plundered over the millenia for neighbouring buildings.


But there is still enough left to explore its double walled structure which contains a spiral staircase.


The plaque from Historic Scotland explains more.

06/05/2008

Return to Miabhaig; all good things must pass.

From Vacsay we turned our bows to the west and made our way somewhat reluctantly and slowly to the Cuma, as she lay at anchor off Bhaltos pier.


After a final supper, we all gathered on deck as Cuma motored slowly and steadily into the recesses of Loch Rog. The Hebridean dusk was gathering as Cuma nudged into her berth on Miabhaig pier. She had motored some 380km since our departure just a few days before. We had only paddled 100km over the previous 7 days but what magnificent sea kayaking it had been. This was not done in straight line headland to headland style. Rather it was a detailed and intimate exploration of some of the most incredible beaches, cliffs, arches, caves, tunnels and geos.

If you ever wish to paddle round St Kilda, I cannot recommend Murty Campbell and Murdani and Cathie Macdonald highly enough.

05/06/2008

Sea kayaking among islands, lagoons, arches and white sands of Loch Rog.

We now worked our way down the east coast of Pabaigh Mor. This magnificent arch is actually a collapsed cave. (Photo JLW).


The further south we paddled, the calmer the waters of Loch Rog became.


From the south of Pabaigh Mor we then went SE towards Eilean Bhacasaigh (Vacsay). The great arc of white sand, which forms Traigh na Beiregh, rimmed the southern horizon. Beyond, the green and grey hills of Lewis rolled away into the distance.


Inside the lagoon of Vacsay we drifted on still, clear waters with fish gently cruising beneath our keels.


Rounding the north end of Vacsay we entered a hidden tunnel at the back of an inlet.


We emerged into another lagoon but time was now running out on our trip on the Cuma.


The islands of Loch Rog provide a wonderful sea kayaking playground with either shelter or exposure, depending on your wishes.

05/06/2008

Tony's cave, Pabaigh Mor!

After lunch with LOMO MAN, we continued our exploration of Pabaigh Mor. Round a corner, Tony shouted "Come and see what I have found, it's a tiny little cave!" Clark hung back.


Then BOOOMPH!.... Tony bought a LOMO dry suit shortly afterwards!

Above photos by JLW.


After much entertainment we left Tony's cave and made our way out to the exposed north coast of Pabaigh Mor and its reef of Bogha Dubh....

05/06/2008

A break in heavy weather!

As we approached the mouth of the Caolas Pabaigh we came across a number of rocky skerries.


The Atlantic swell poured over these in a most entertaining way.


We then proceeded round the west end of Pabaigh Mor, where the chart is reassuringly annotated "breaks in heavy weather". Pessimists think this sounds like an update of "here be dragons"!


Fortunately, we at seakayakphoto.com are eternal optimists and found the perfect spot...


...for a break in heavy weather!

05/06/2008

Sea kayaking the caves of Caolas Pabaigh (Kyles of Pabbay).

After lunch on the Cuma we launched in the shelter of Caolas Pabaigh a narrow body of water which separates Lewis from the island of Pabaigh Mor.


Both sides of the Caolas are riddled with caves such as this one on the Lewis side.


This monster is on the Pabaigh Mor side has amazing multicoloured rocks.


The booming at the back of the cave was deafening. Just as Tony and I were exiting, a rogue swell came in and I was surfed into the back of the cave again. I found this quite exciting as I tried to do a one handed stern rudder while holding my Canon 5D in the other hand.

05/06/2008

The wild west coast of Lewis.

On the morning of the 5th of June 2008, the MV Cuma steamed out of the shelter of Loch Roag for the last time on our trip.


We passed inside of beautiful Eilean Mhealasta...


...and below the dark rocks of Aird Mor Mangurstadh.


We were glad we were not rounding Gallan Head in kayaks, given these conditions.


MV Cuma then nosed into Loch Roag and passed the great arch of Eala Sheadha...


...before Murdani dropped her anchor, a little distance off Bhaltos pier.


Cuma had covered 39km of some of the finest paddling coastline anywhere. I would love to return and paddle it but such an expedition would require much calmer conditions than those we had just encountered.

05/06/2009

Broad Bay House, Lewis

Exactly a year ago, my wife Alison, our friend Clark and myself stayed at Broad Bay House on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. In your dreams you might chance upon another place like Broad Bay House. You might hope that one day there will be accommodation like this throughout Scotland. In reality there is only one Broad Bay House and Ian and Marion have raised the standard far above other establishments. Every detail of the design, construction, materials, furnishings and fittings has been thought out with the visitor's comfort taking priority over expense. The bedrooms and bathrooms were simply superb.

The washing machine, drier and wifi Internet access for weather forecasts were particularly suitable for those that like outdoor adventures in this wonderful land and sea. All this might have been in vain if Ian and Marion were not such perfect hosts. Nothing was too much bother for them. Their approach epitomised what customer service should be about. They clearly enjoyed helping visiting sea kayakers whose hours and needs were far from those of standard guests. They achieved this without being obtrusive.


Unfortunately we were attending evening events in the An Lantair Centre and could not enjoy an evening meal at Broad Bay House. The breakfasts were truly excellent and fuelled our paddles in the surf well into the day. We will just need to return to appreciate dinner! An overall 12/10 then!


The gate at the bottom of the garden leads straight onto Traigh Ghriais, the large beach which borders Broad Bay.


Of course Lewis and Harris are simply wonderful places to visit. We sea kayaked on the west coast of Lewis at Loch Roag.


Lewis and Harris make up the third largest land mass in the British Isles but it is one of the least populated.


People have been visiting here for quite a long time now.....


.... though I doubt the views over the Harris hills have changed much.

We do have an advantage over our ancestors though......


They didn't get to stay at Broad Bay House!

Grimsay boats.

On the morning of 2/6/2008 we were awoken by the "put put" of a single cylinder diesel engine puttering round the turquoise waters of the Monach Islands. When we came up on deck our spirits were raised by the start of a fine day, this was the day we hoped to reach and paddle round the shores of St Kilda but at first we could not see the source of the sound.


Then a lobster boat took shape as she emerged from the burning reflection of the early morning sun. This was no ordinary GRP lobster boat. This was a Grimsay boat. The Grimsay boat is to the Outer Hebrides what the Model T Ford was to the rest of the World. These boats proved to be versatile for both transport and fishing throughout the isles. Since the 1840's it is estimated that over 1000 Grimsay boats were built by the Stewart family until their last full time builder died in 1994.

It was a joy to see this Grimsay boat being handled by Donald Brady from North Uist as he checked his lobster pots on the Monach islands. The Grimsay boats were of wooden clinker construction but with an exceptionally deep and fine keel. This allowed them to handle the Atlantic swell and surf found on the west coast of the Outer Hebrides. Due to the lack of harbours on the west coast, these boats were built in sizes of 10 to 28 feet. This allowed them to slip through tidal channels between the islands to sheltered anchorages on the east coast.

In 1928 the Grimsay yard launched the Morning Star. She was the link between the mainland of North Uist and the isolated community on the Monach Islands. She carried passengers, supplies and the mail. In recent years she had lain in disrepair in a mud berth in a creek of Loch Maddy in North Uist. She was restored and relaunched in 2007 by apprentices working at the Boatshed in Grimsay.

02/06/2008


We had seen other other Grimsay boats in various stages of restoration at Bhaltos when we first arrived on Lewis.

30/05/2008

These are the voyages of the MV Cuma, day 2, sausage logistics.

On day two of the St Kilda trip there were force 6 to 7 E winds forecast. This would make it impossible to anchor securely in Village Bay, Hirta, which is exposed to the E. That morning a decision was taken to motor 68km to the Monach Isles (off North Uist) where a sheltered anchorage could be found and from where it was only 65 km to the NW and St Kilda!


However, the sharp eyed will have noticed a detour which was made to the west coast of Harris. The crew of the Cuma are used to supplying needy passengers with sausages. However, Murdani and his crew were completely unprepared for the gannet like breakfast demands of hungry sea kayakers. I have to confess, even I was rather surprised at the extent of the breakfast order that went in the evening before. Murdani was however, completely nonplussed. Early in the morning he phoned his son in law who proceeded to make a 262 km round trip from Uig to Stornoway then through the fastnesses between Lewis to the coast of Harris and back. The purpose of this incredible journey was to resupply the sausage needs of Cuma's hungry sea kayakers.

As Clark and Fiona F enjoyed the early morning sunshine, Murdani nudged the Cuma close inshore and launched the RIB to make a sausage rendezvous.


The sausage supply situation was resolved before we, the guests, even knew what was happening. Here, Nancy, Fiona B, Lena, Andy and Murty sit digesting their multiple breakfast sausages, somewhat unaware of the complexities of the logistics of Stornoway sausage resupply. So hospitable were our hosts, it would be unseemly of them to mention the true purpose of the visit to Harris. They just hoped we had enjoyed our view of Harris's wonderful beaches.

I think it would be fair to say that day two had started with a banger (or several)!

01/06/2008