The fossil tree of Mull.

Approaching the Wilderness coast of Mull from Staffa, we landed at a natural recess in the rocks.


The Mull volcanic eruption of 50 million years ago did not just spill out over a barren landscape, it buried a land of verdant forests. At the back of the beach, to the left of distorted basalt columns, you can see the vertical impression of a tree trunk that managed to stay upright after it was engulfed by lava.


When it was first discovered by McCulloch, there was still a charcoal like deposit round the trunk where the bark had been. Despite its inaccessibility on foot, this has been hacked away by souvenir hunters who have since started chipping away the remains of the rocky stump. It has now been capped with concrete.

Thunder clouds over Staffa

As we completed our circumnavigation of Staffa, thunderclouds gathered over the mountains of Gometra, Ulva and Mull. Despite the geological splendours of this stunning little island, we found no sea kayaking pubs to delay our progress. Despite our thirst, we decided it would be prudent to return to the mainland of Mull. We headed for the Wilderness coast of the Ardmeanach peninsula, to see if we could find McCulloch's fossil tree....

Boat Cave, Staffa

Just round the corner from Fingal's Cave on Staffa is the Boat Cave. We call it the Pharoh's Cave as its entrance looks a bit like the entrance to an Egyptian tomb.


Looking up at the roof of the cave as you enter gives this simply stunning view.

Fingal's Cave

I have posted on Fingal's Cave before but as it is truly one of the wonders of the sea kayaking world, I hope you will forgive another visit.

Fingal’s Cave on the island of Staffa is the largest columnar basalt cave in the world. Even the roof is composed of end on hexagonal and pentagonal columns. The cave has a height of 20m above sea level but the depth below the water is also 20m! The cave stretches back for 69m and at its mouth is 13m wide. The vaulted ceiling and columns, like organ pipes, give the impression of a great natural cathedral.

Some say its name refers to the Celtic hero Finn MacCool, others to the Gaelic words for “fair stranger” which refers to the Norsemen. Whatever, this name first appeared in the 18th century. The old Gaelic name is An Uamh Bhin; “the Melodious Cave”.


The noise of a gentle swell in the back of the cave is particularly melodious but only God would know what it would sound like in the midst of an Atlantic storm.


The tourists on the “Island Lass” had come from Ulva Ferry on Mull. We provided part of their entertainment.

Of course Fingal's Cave is not the only cave on Staffa....

Staffa

After leaving Little Colonsay our first landfall was on the island of Staffa. It is composed of vertical basalt columns and the Vikings named it Stave island. There are few places to land and tourist boats can only do so in fair weather. It is the location of the famous Fingal's Cave.


The island is the eroded remains of a huge lava flow that spilt out from Ben More on Mull.

Little Colonsay

Loch na Keal and Ulva from Little Colonsay.

After leaving the succour of Cragaig cottage, we were a sorry bunch. Tony’s ankle was the size of a melon and Mike had not been paddling since February as he had been bitten on the hand by a venomous snake in South Africa. My arthritis was bothering me and David’s back was playing up. The Treshnish isles had been our intended destination but Mike’s forearm was suffering badly after the slog up Loch Tuath to Ulva Ferry the day before. He decided to have a short day and head for a camp on Inch Kenneth while we decided to make do with a little tour of Loch na Keal, visiting Staffa and the Wilderness instead...



Our fiirst stop was Little Colonsay.



There is a large 3 storey house on this island. In the 1930’s, the last resident moved to Cragaig cottage (which we had just left). He was driven out, after 40 years on the island, by a plague of rats. After our recent encounter with the Giant Bothy Rat of Ratatallain, Tony and I have a clear policy when it comes to rodents. We did not land.

We paddled on to Staffa.

Dog eat dog

The seas off Ulva were teeming with fish. Tony caught this mackerel which was still in the process of swallowing a sand eel in a feeding frenzy. We had them filleted and fried only a few minutes after they were caught. Simply delicious.