Light my fire, on Gigha.

Nothing beats a fire on a wild camp but the machair on so many beautiful campsites is scarred by charred circles surrounded by blackened stones. Everyone seems to set up a new fire ring so the beach is scarred not just once but multiple times. It is much better to build a fire well down the beach so that the next tide sweeps it clean. We don't bother with a circle of stones.

Last year's bracken fronds make great tinder but it can be useful to have some cotton wool balls or pads in case things are damp. You can use a match or, as in this case, create sparks from a flint.

 Soon you will have a lovely fire to bake potatoes in and to...

...while away the hours until sunset.

End of a long day on Gigha.

 From the old mill, we paddled north up the...

 ...west coast of .Gigha.

We saw the MV Finlaggan round the north end on her way to Islay.

 At last we spotted a good place to...

 ...set up camp with a great view...

 ...to the Paps of Jura.

Better Days #15, on Gigha

We found this sad old wooden clinker rowing boat in the undergrowth above the beach at Port an Duin on Gigha. I rather liked the look of her lines but sadly she has seen Better Days.

Trouble at the mill on Gigha.

At the northern end of Cnoc Loisgte a sudden break in the rocks appears. It is called Port an Duin, landing place of the fort. A sheltered inlet is created by a small island which sits at the mouth of a small bay below an old dun or fort. These goslings were enjoying the shelter. I had first paddled round Gigha 10 years previously and...

 ...had always wanted to land and explore the old mill. I have visited at least once a year since then but have always been thwarted from landing by either the swell (or midges). At last suitable weather conditions allowed a landing but my troublesome left knee let me down. Low tide revealed a sloping slab covered in slippery seaweed. There was no way I would get across unaided. Fortunately Mike and Phil came to my help and escorted me safely to a the shore.

 It was well worth the trip. The mill is nearly 200 years old, dating from the early 19th century.

 The cast iron lade and...

... overshot 16 foot water wheel are still complete.

 The axle runs through the north wall of the mill and...

...connects to a gear wheel on the interior, which was used to drive the mechanism. The millstones are on the floor under that tangle of undergrowth.

On the mill's east wall the grain shoot is still in existence. Oat grains were poured from sacks which were stored on a higher building on the...

...uphill side of the mill. What a fascinating spot. Thanks again to Mike and Phil for helping me see it.

The great rock wall of Cnoc Loisgte, Gigha.

 Once we left the shelter of the skerries, we encountered a small swell on the exposed west coast of Gigha. The presence of swell, even in the middle of a large high pressure weather system, shows how lucky we were to have had calm enough conditions to explore the SW corner of Gigha.

 We now arrived at the great rock wall of Cnoc Loisgte, which translates as...

 ...the arid hill. Its unbroken ramparts stretched away almost as far as the eye could see. There were no landing spots either in front...

...or behind so...

 ...we paddled steadily on until...

...a light breeze offered some assistance.

The landing place of the spectre, Gigha.

 The SW corner of Gigha is a paradise of skerries and...

 ...islets with views to the Paps of Jura to the NW and...

 ...distant Islay to the west.

Kayak circumnavigations of Gigha often miss coming into this corner due to the prevailing swell creating frequent boomers on the barely submerged reefs. However, there are many sandy coves...

 ...to explore such as this one at Port an t-Samhlaidh (landing place of the spectre) with its old stone jetty. Nearby there are some "bait holes", carved in solid rock to store fishing bait.

 After a stop at a final sandy cove...

 ...it was time to head out...

 ...through the Caolas Craro to...

...Gigha's rocky west coast. In the heat of the June day we saw no spectres, only wonderful Hebridean scenery.

The heat of a June day on the machair of Gigha.

 We set off from the rocks where the thrift grew at the back of the beach and ...

 ...made our way onto the machair above. It was a sweet smelling carpet of buttercups, daisies and clover.

 From a little hill above the machair we could see over the Sound of Jura to the distant Mull of Oa on Islay.

 Up here, the rougher ground had a beautiful....

 ...display of orchids. The summer sun was beating down so hotly that...

 ...we decided to go for a swim in the clear turquoise water.

Unfortunately, the sea had not yet warmed up and it was so cold that it was only possible to stay in for a few seconds. What a place to spend a leisurely afternoon!