Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.
The west coast of the Mull of Oa is characterised by many offshore skerries and stacks. The Mull forms the SE boundary of Loch Indaal. Despite the flood tide, a strong counter eddy was flowing south, out of Loch Indaal, and joining the west going Mull of Oa tide race. At several pinch points we found ourselves paddling "uphill"!
We took a break at the lovely Lower Killeyan beach. Visitors are advised not to swim here due to the strength of the tide.
Tony went off exploring while I sat on the rocks looking over the mouth of Loch Indaal to Orsay and its lighthouse some 14km away. It was near there, at Portnahaven, that we had launched to paddle the west coast of the Rinns of Islay just a few days before.
The way ahead looked even more interesting than where we had just come from so...
...after a leisurely luncheon we returned to the kayaks. It was a good feeling knowing we had passed the tidal crux of the journey and could now relax and enjoy paddling the incredible coast to come...
We now approached the great rock blade of Sgeirean Buidhe, which lies in the centre of the SW coast of the Oa peninsula.
On another trip earlier that year, we had encountered a major tide race off these rocks but on this day, Tony and I zipped past the headland on relatively smooth water before...
...breaking out into the eddy behind the point.
Ahead lay the Mull of Oa itself. It was still 2km away and is topped by the prominent American Red Cross Monument. It was erected in 1920 in memory of those who died when two troop ships, the Tuscania and the Otranto were lost off Islay in 1918.
The sharp eyed might notice the dark line on the horizon off the point, with white water licking the dark rocks. We were fortunate that there was no wind because by the time we got there the race was rushing westwards with standing waves 2m high. There was no escape inshore so we gripped our paddles and paddled straight into the race. We lost sight of each other in the troughs then when we cleared the headland, we battled northward against a south going eddy...
...which was making its way down the west coast of the Oa. We breathed a huge sigh of relief. We were safely through the tides and now we could enjoy paddling what is probably the best bit of sea kayaking coast on Islay...the west coast of the Mull of Oa.
We set off down the SE coast of the Mull of Oa, threading small stacks crowned by cormorants.
The coast is composed of increasingly bold cliffs. As we approached Rubha nan Leacan at 09:40 (which was 40 minutes before HW Dover) the west going flood tide had already started. HW Dover is supposed to be slack water but, like many of the inshore tidal streams round Islay, it starts about 45 minutes before published times.
Rounding the point to the SW coast of the Oa, the cliffs fall precipitously into the sea. Despite this, they are home to several flocks of nimble feral goats.
The water was bumpy till we entered the calm of an eddy beyond the headland. We were now on the remote SW coast of the Mull of Oa and with the tides building behind us, we were now committed to continuing round the next two headlands...
This is a new prototype Flat Earth Sail. It is 0.8sqm in area and is made of a dacron, spectra scrim, mylar laminate. The cut is fuller than previous sails. Some area has been moved from low down to the leach. The cut of the leach has been tightened, stiffened with mini battens but still allows twist at the head. I like it a lot! I also thought the Delphin would perform well with a sail in a decent breeze and I was not disappointed.
This video will give some idea of the fun that can be had when kayak sailing. We were hitting 18km/hr on the waves. This was my first trial of the new Flat Earth Code Zero 0.8 sq metre sail. I paired it with the P&H Delphin 155. The wind was averaging 15knots gusting to 21knots as measured with an anemometer.
It was only 16km but it was an adrenaline filled trip. This was also Phil's first sea kayak sailing trip, what an introduction!