Bracken time in Glenan Bay Loch Fyne.

It did not take Donald long to disappear down Loch Fyne in his SIB due to its 25HP Mariner outboard but...

...we were making good time assisted by the northerly breeze. A bend in the loch means that we could not see beyond the lochs shores but...

...there were plenty lovely bays at the foot of wooded hills to maintain our interest until...

...we rounded Eilean Buidhe and caught sight of Arran beyond the mouth of the loch.

Eilean Buidhe means yellow island and looking back it indeed looked yellow.

The wind was steadily increasing and before long we were back at Eilean a' Bhuic which stands guard at the mouth of Glenan Bay.

We had not stopped here on our way north but it seemed churlish not to do so now.

 It was spring low water so we left the boats at the water's edge and made our way to the top of the beach where...

 ...we enjoyed a splendid first luncheon as the Poravadie/Tarbert ferry plied her route with the mountains of Arran beyond.

We did not rush as we knew that David and Phil would be shortly leaving Mike and myself at Portavadie. Indeed this frond of bracken had unfolded considerably in the time it took us to finish.

Lots of boats on the commute to Bute.

It wasa a bright Monday morning when Mike and I rolled up at the Wemyss Bay ferry terminal to catch the ferry to Bute. "Our commute to Bute" as we called it.

The mountains of Arran rose majestically above the low rolling ground of Bute. We did wonder if the ferry would arrive as one of the two ferries had burnt its turbo charger out just a few days before.

 Fortunately MV Bute seemed to have made a good recovery and she arrived right on time.

 It was with great anticipation that we left Wemyss Bay on the 45 minute crossing to Rothesay in Bute. We then drove 20 minutes north...

...to Rhubodach near the head of the Kyles of Bute. The narrows were quite busy, several yachts passed before MV Splendour a converted 20m wooden fishing boat cruised down the East Kyle. She is the flagship of the recently formed Argyll Cruising company and this is their first season. I wish them great success.

No sooner had Splendour cleared the narrows than MV Loch Dunvegan rolled up the slipway. She operates CalMac's shortest ferry route from Colintraive to Rhubodach, all 420m of it.

We wasted no time in getting ready and soon we were ready to set off on another mini adventure!

A taste of the Sound of Islay.

An Cladach in SE Islay is an exceptional bothy,

 ...and we soon made ourselves at home. Some other bothies do not have libraries as they are too easy to get to and some visitors think that books are fire lighters.

 The food preparation area had been left very clean.

 The notice board had information about the history of the bothy.

 There was even a bag of dry fire wood by the fire.

We soon had our evening meal on and consumed it with relish before...

...taking some air outside the bothy.

 We were joined by not one but three otters!

This one suddenly surfaced close inshore and climbed on a rock  to look at us. He took me by surprise so this shot is blurred.

Unfortunately the noise of the shutter sent it back under the water.

 We took a stroll in the sunset to gather some firewood.

 We sat for ages on a rock just watching the tide running in the Sound of Islay.

At 20:50 the MV Hebridean Isles motored down the Sound.

She was on the Saturday service which left Oban at 16:30, stopped at Colonsay, Port Askaig on Islay and was now on her way to Kennacraig on Kintyre, where she would arrive at 22:50. We left the Sound of Islay  to the gathering darkness and the fading rumble of the Hebridean Isles engines.

It was time to get the fire on, get the baked potatoes cooking and pour a dram of Caol Ila. What does Caol Ila mean? It means the Sound of Islay  ...what else?!

The northern Sound of Islay, the sound of superlatives.

The north half of the Sound of Islay is blessed with...

 ...some amazing rock architecture on the Jura shore. We were treated to more dykes, arches,...

 ....caves and stacks.

 We were enjoying the view so much that we kept close inshore out of the main south going flow.

 The Islay shore was also not without its delights. This is the Bunnahabhain distillery.

 Meanwhile back on the Jura shore the succession of caves and...

 dykes continued.

 Then gradually the Sound narrowed and as we approached...

 ...the lighthouse at Carragh an t-Sruith the full force of the ebb tide caught us and we sped south at 13km/hr.

 The next Islay delight was the Caol Ila distillery very rapidly followed by...

...Port Askaig, where the ferries from Kintyre, Jura, Colonsay and Oban call. This evening it was only the Eilean Dhiura, the Jura ferry, that was in port.

As we reflected on what we had seen in our rapid transit of the northern Sound of Islay, we agreed that it truly was a Sound of Superlatives. As we would now be crossing from Jura to Islay I was particularly glad I had brought some Caol Ila 18y old malt for later that night. Jura malt on Jura then Islay malt on Islay, what could be better?

Charcoal and herons in the Burnt Islands.

From Eilean Dubh we paddled across the north end of the Kyles of Bute to the delightful Burnt Islands. The first we came to was Eilean Fraoich (Heather Isle).

The daffodils were out and it was only the 14th of March. There was little sign of any heather however.

 Looking over the Kyles of Bute to the Bute shore we could see the new composting toilet and cooking shelter that has has been provided for those that follow the Argyll Sea Kayak Trail.

The west going tide had already started so we worked our way uptide close to the island before crossing...

 ...the shipping channel which is clearly marked by red and green cans.

 The tide had just started running so was very gentle but it rips through here at 6 knots on a spring tide. Our destination was Eilean Buidhe (Yellow Isle).

 We landed on rocks at the north end of the islands. Although the rock hereabouts is...

 ...very interesting, composed of contorted lichen covered swirls, it was not the purpose of our visit.

Ian and I  braved bramble covered defences to ascend to the south point of the island. Here are the grass covered remains of a vitrified dun (fort). Its circular walls are 4m thick and enclose an inner area nearly 20m in diameter.It was extensively excavated by JH Maxwell in 1936. He found a thick layer of charcoal at the base of the vitrified walls which was presumably the source of the combustion process that fused the stones of the wall together.

From the dun we had a good view over the Kyles to Eilean Mor which is the largest of the Burnt Islands. Some years ago Mike and I camped on Bute just on the far side of Eilean Dubh. We suffered one of the worst midge attacks we have experienced anywhere. Then we were kept awake most of the night by the cacophony from the large heronry which takes residence in the island's trees in the summer.

The dun also affords a good view over Eilean Bhuidhe to the West Kyle beyond. It must have been a great location for a fort.

 Leaving the Burnt Islands we just had a short trip down the East Kyle to Rhubodach, the Bute ferry terminal  where we had left the cars. An easterly wind got up and we launched the sails. I was able to leave the others far behind by using the forward fin on the Aries. However the others caught up as I had to wait for the ferry MV Loch Dunvegan to leave her berth.  I remember using the MV Loch Dunvegan to cross to Skye in the days before the Skye Bridge was opened in 1995. She was built in 1991 at Fergusons Yard in Port Glasgow. After leaving Skye, she was relief vessel on various crossings until she moved to the Kyles of Bute route in 1999.

 We landed just to the east of the ferry slipway, a few metres from the cars.

We had enjoyed a wonderful day in the Kyles of Bute. We may only have covered 18km but on the other hand we had spent some very pleasant time in the Kames Hotel!