Showing posts with label Boreray. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boreray. Show all posts

Thursday, February 05, 2009

The west coast of Boreray.


The MV Cuma made her way between Stac Lee and the rugged west coast of Boreray in the St Kilda Archipelago. The island is 384m high, 1.6km north to south and 1.1km at its widest, east to west.


Latterly the islanders kept sheep on Boreray but, in earlier times, they also cultivated the land. Their old lazy bedsare still visible when the low sun strikes across a grassy slope.


Boreray's wild west coast is today inhabited only by the birds.


Gannets peel off every ledge...


... and scan the sea below for fish. They plunge from on high in pursuit of their prey.

03/06/2008 pm

Tuesday, February 03, 2009

To Boreray and the Stacs


About 7km to the NE of Hirta lies one of the most dramatic island groups in Scotland: Boreray and the Stacs. MV Cuma now made her way between Boreray and Stac Lee, round Stac an Armin and then round the far side of Boreray before returning to Harris.


These scraps of land way out in the Atlantic form part of the rim of a volcano which was formed as the plates on either side of the Atlantic Ocean began to separate. Here we see Stac Lee, Stac an Armin and Boreray. The St Kildans visited each of these islands, usually in August, to harvest sea birds. They also kept sheep on Boreray. There are no beaches to land and leave a boat. They were dropped off by a boat heaving up and down in the Atlantic swell and had to climb up the steep rocks above.


Stac Lee and Stac an Armin are the two biggest sea stacks in the British Isles.

03/06/2008 pm

Monday, February 02, 2009

The sea cliffs of Hirta


On board the MV Cuma again, we were soon rounding the eastern ramparts of Oisebhal on Hirta. We were bound for Boreray and the stacs and thence to Harris.


The NE coast of Hirta has the highest sea cliffs in the British Isles. Behind the low lying Sgeirnan Sgarbh in the fore ground, rise the cliffs of Conachair 430m.


Looking back, the notched ridge of Dun shelters the Village Bay.


This is the Gap between Oisebhal and Conachair, down which the St Kildans lowered themselves in the hunt for fulmars.


As the Cuma pulled away from Hirta, Soay came into sight behind Mina Stac. Like the St Kildans 78 years previously we were now leaving Hirta. Our acquaintance had been short but nonetheless we knew we were now leaving a very special place in our wake.

03/06/2008 pm

Friday, January 30, 2009

130 fulmars per year.


The cliff ledges of Hirta are home to thousands of pairs of fulmars. At one time fulmars were confined to the St Kilda archipelago but since the end of the 19th century they have spread to Scotland and the rest of the British Isles.


This pair are nesting on a bed of sea pink and sea campion but fulmars do not construct a nest for their single egg. They do not begin breeding until they are 8 to 10 years old and can live to over 50.


Superficially fulmars look like gulls but are actually petrels, related to shearwaters and albatrosses. They have a graceful stiff winged flight and glide for long distances skimming the waves with their wingtips. They protect their nests by projectile vomiting a nasty oil.


Fulmars formed a staple of the St Kildans' diet. Each person would eat about 130 fulmars per year. The men scrambled over the crags catching the birds and collecting their eggs. If you follow this link to the Scottish Screen Archive you can see a dizzying clip, shot in 1923, of St Kildans going over the cliffs in search of fulmars at this very spot.

03/06/2008 am

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Between a pox and a hard place on Stac Lee.


From the cliffs on the NE coast of Hirta it is less than 7km across the Atlantic to Boreray and its two satellite stacs. They are Stac Lee and Stac an Armin (in the shade behind). They are the highest stacks in the British Isles. The islanders kept sheep on Boreray and also visited these islands for the sea bird harvest in August. Amazingly there are also about 50 cleitean on Boreray and about 80 on Stac an Armin!

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There were also bothies on all three. The one on Stac Lee can still be found. It is just below the dark "V" under the left of the white stained summit cap of the island. The island and stacs are too exposed to leave a boat, so work parties were dropped off by a boat from Hirta, which would return when a signal indicated the work was done.

In 1729 a smallpox epidemic was started after a St Kildan had died on Harris from smallpox the previous year. As his clothes were still good, they were brought back to St Kilda and the smallpox gripped the population. At the time, three adults and eight boys were marooned on Stac Lee because there were no surviving adults, strong enough to man the boat from Hirta, to rescue them. They remained on this windswept rock for 9 months, through the winter and into the next summer, until the factor's boat from Harris relieved them. When they returned to Hirta, they found only one adult and 18 children had survived the epidemic from the population of nearly 200.

Remarkably St Kilda was repopulated in the 1730's from Harris, Uist and Skye. Life may have been tough on St Kilda but it was even worse for many on these other islands. The incomers were taught how to climb the cliffs and harvest birds by the few survivors. By 1758 the population had risen to 88 but it would never again reach 200. The decline had started.

03/06/2008 am

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Purty sea kayaks and the great tunnel of Geodha na h-Airdhe, St Kilda


Geodha na h-Airdhe is a 140m long tunnel right through the great headland of Gob na h-Airdhe on the north coast of Hirta in the St Kilda archipelago.

Alan comes through in his Nordkapp LV. I think this boat is one of the purtiest sea kayaks around!


Fiona F and Murty come through as the MV Cuma makes an appearance behind.


The scale of this arch is difficult to describe, in truth it is a tunnel!


Yup the Nordkapp LV sure is a purty boat. Pity the same can not be said of all those who paddle one! Photo Jennifer Wilcox.


With Boreray as a backdrop to the NE, Lena and Jennifer paddle across the great sweep of Glen Bay where we had arranged to rendezvous with the Cuma.

The Cuma's purpose will be revealed tomorrow...

02/06/2008

Tuesday, July 01, 2008

Eyes front for the Old Man of Levenish!


As the St Kilda archipelago slowly heaved above the Atlantic horizon....all eyes were excitedly looking ahead.


The first stack we came to was Levenish. From the south east it looked rather uninteresting compared with its more distant neighbours. Then as we passed by we saw the face of the Old Man of Levenish as clear as day!



Behind Levenish lay the dramatic stacks of Stac Lee, Stac an Armin and the island of Boreray. We had nearly arrived at St Kilda!

02/06/2008

Saturday, January 13, 2007

A Berneray bridge too far?



Residents of the lovely isle of Berneray are alarmed about a plan to lay a new tarmac trunk road through their island as part of a "bridge" over the Sound of Harris. In the above photo the causeway will leave Berneray at the point on the left and cross the Sound of Harris to the sand dunes visible on Killegray, just above the kayak's stern.



This plan will create a permanent road link from Eriskay in the south to Lewis in the north a distance of over 220 kilometers. It will lead onto a series of causeways and bridges that link Berneray to Killegray to Ensay then onto Harris. Part of its cost will be defrayed by a series of windmills and tidal generators along its length. Critics say the Sound of Harris is too shallow for efficient tidal generation and the link would restrict navigation. They also raise concern about coastline erosion and tidal surges to the north and south of the Sound.


The north end of Berneray where the causeway will start.


Crossing the Sound of Harris on the line of the proposed causeway.


The beach on Killegray where the causeway would come ashore.


The crossing from Ensay to Harris.


The current Harris-Berneray ferry, MV Loch Portain, which entered service in 2003.

Jerry Cox, sole resident of nearby Boreray, sent me the following:

"There was a meeting at Berneray Hall on 19th December, where a council engineer and three councillors (including convenor) involved in realising this grandiose scheme received considerable abuse from the local community. Out of 19 people who attended, 18 were not happy bunnies. Traffic nuisance and marine obstruction are the main objections. Attached is a short report from Stornoway Gazette."

Stornoway Gazette 22/12/2006

Local politicians faced a tough challenge at a public meeting on Berneray to placate residents convinced that their tiny island would suffer major adverse effects if a fixed link is built to connect the Uists with Harris and Lewis, having its southern base on Berneray.

During the meeting, Western Isles convener Alec Macdonald, transport chairman Donald Manford, local councillor Archie Campbell and council engineer Martin Tulloch had to assure residents repeatedly that the proposal was at an embryonic stage, with no decisions having been made, and everything up for debate.

The public meeting was called to discuss a £45,000 feasibility study report commissioned by Western Isles Council to look at the possibilities of a fixed link across the five-mile Sound of Harris from Berneray to Leverburgh, with the approximate £75 million budget off-set in the long term by revenue from renewable energy sources generated by wave, tide or wind in the sound.

The report was prepared by Jacobs Babtie of Glasgow and looked at a number of options including keeping the existing ferry service; fixed and partially fixed links with or without renewables; and a tunnel.

The last option was ruled out on grounds of cost, while the first was deemed most favourable in terms of cost. However, the report considered that the socio-economic benefits of keeping the existing ferry were low compared with what would be achieved by a fixed link.

The report concluded that within broad parameters a case could be made for building a fully-fixed link with the potential for the generation of renewable energy.

Berneray residents were vigorous in expressing their concerns over these assertions, particularly over the assumption of Berneray as the base for the link.

One resident said "This is the most crucial issue. If my life morning noon and night is having big trucks going past my window then my life's not worth living here, end of story."

It was pointed out that the road is mainly single track and in many areas would be impossible to widen without knocking down houses.

Mr Campbell emphasised that he agreed entirely that parts of Berneray could not be widened to be a double track road without knocking people's houses down, and said that would never happen.

He said: "If the project goes ahead, how the road goes when it gets on to Berneray and moves through is absolutely crucial. You couldn't possibly put the road through its current line. In my wildest dreams I couldn't imagine any elected members agreeing to demolish houses, let me reassure you."

Residents challenged council engineer Martin Tulloch on whether areas other than Berneray had been considered as the southern base for the link. He said they had but Berneray was chosen for the feasibility study as it was the shortest distance.

Mr Campbell said two further public meetings are likely to be held in Harris and North Uist before the working group considers the feedback and commissions consultants to address concerns.

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Boreray enters digital age but is still isolated.



My very first post concerned a visit to Boreray. It is a beautiful island in a somewhat exposed position at the west end of the Sound of Harris in the Outer Hebrides. I also mentioned it in another post about clearing mink from the Western Isles.

Tonight I received an email from Jerry Cox who has been Boreray's sole resident since 1999. He told me about Boreray's website. I have no idea whether he has a satellite link to the internet like that on nearby Berneray or whether he has to leave Boreray and get access elsewhere. From the website, you can learn about the island and how Jerry makes a living from his croft which has a flock of St Kildan sheep. He also has a renovated croft house for rent. It has one of the most stunning views in the Hebrides. The only way of getting there is by kayak or Jerry's RIB. He warns "Please be aware that access involves a four-mile sea crossing in an open RIB with beach landing. Weather conditions may delay the start and/or finish of your stay!"



I would settle for a delayed departure.

Saturday, November 25, 2006

Wanted: Mink Men!


Mink on Bhacsaigh, Loch Roag.

For the attention of non vegan, unemployed sea kayakers! Scottish Natural Heritage seek persons with the following skills:
  • Boat handling skills.
  • Experience with firearms.
  • Ability to walk over moorland between 8-20 kilometres per day.
  • Good knowledge of the Western Isles.
  • Experience of using working dogs.
Successful applicants will take part in the eradication of the mink from the Western Isles. Natives of North America, these relatives of the weasel escaped from fur farms in the 1960's and 70's. They have spread throughout the islands as they are strong swimmers and are ruthless predators of ground nesting birds. A programme of eradication was started in 2001.


Mink trap on Berneray.

I can proudly hold up my head and say that I have played a small but vital part in this public service. During 2004 we were camped on Boreray. In exchange for some fresh water, I did a favour for the island's sole resident Jerry. I transported a dead mink to North Uist so that he could claim his bounty. It was a very stinky minky.


Boreray, sea kayaking paradise.

Imagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.

Tuesday, July 25, 2006