Monday, April 06, 2015

Reflections on Loch Shiel. All is not what it seems; shown the water and across the water.

As we proceeded down Loch Shiel in the early evening, the waters of the loch became...

 ...even calmer.

It was down this loch the Prince Charles Edward Stuart the "Young Pretender" to the British throne made his way after the defeat of the Jacobite army at Culloden in 1746. He knew he was safe here. MacDonald of Glenaladale, on the NW shore of the loch was a staunch Jacobite. George II's soldiers hunted Charles down ruthlessly but despite a £30,000 reward, none of the Highlanders who sheltered him betrayed him. In 1746 the Highlands were in turmoil, a long way from the calm of the loch today. The Jacobite cause was complex. It was not just a simple Scottish/English or Highland/Lowland or Catholic/Protestant divide but it led to the destruction of the traditional Scottish Clan system and the clearing of the many small communities that populated the Highland glens. Even the wearing of tartan was banned and it was not until over a century later that Sir Walter Scott and Queen Victoria re-popularised Highland culture and the wearing of tartan became acceptable again..

There was no sign of spring in the rugged mountain slopes though...

 ...the snows had receded to the high corries.

As we paddled steadily down the loch...

...we passed many headlands...

 ...backed by deciduous woodland.

 Their rocks had once been polished by ice but...

...were were now reflected by the calm water.

It was quite disorienting paddling close to the shore, sometimes it was not easy to say what was up and what was down!

 There were surprises round every corner such as...

 ...Eilean Dubh and if you did not look back, you might miss...

 ...some lovely beaches.

 The only sign of man's influence was the forestry track on the SE shore.

 The striking thing about the symmetry in Loch Shiel was that...

 ...sometimes....

...the reflections were...

 ...more vivid than the reality.


We had been paddling in silence for some time. Each of us was immersed in our own thoughts.

 At last I turned back and looking at the now distant head of the loch, realised how far we had come.

 It was definitely time for an early evening tea stop.

We found a delightful beach just north of Glenaladale to stretch our legs and take a refreshment. We were of course deep in the Highlands of Scotland where "tea" does not necessarily come from a bush.

Oh no! We are talking of refreshment that comes from the barley. Ian produced a flask of cask strength Linkwood. Liquor of this strength requires to be "shown" a little water to bring out its full flavour and avoid numbing the palate.

Where better to get some water to show to the whisky than the crystal clear waters of Loch Sheil? In true Royal Navy tradition, we remained seated during our toasts. As it was a Tuesday, we toasted ourselves, our expedition and our friends, in that order. In times gone by, the MacDonalds of Glenaladale would have toasted the "King over the Water" i.e. the Young Pretender, Bonny Prince Charlie. If they were at a function where they had to give the Loyal Toast to the Hanovarian King George, they would pass their glass over their finger bowl as the said "The King!" In so doing the whisky passed "over the water" before they drank it. Thus although they pretended to toast King George, this was a secret sign that their loyalty lay instead with the King over the Water.

After 1746 so many people did this that even the Hanovarians realized what was going on and such was the fear of another uprising that finger bowls were banned from formal functions where the Loyal Toast was to be given. Jacobites quicky developed a new sign, they passed their hand over the top of their glass before drinking. Again this symbolised "over the water". It was not until after Edward VII came to the throne in 1902 that he felt the Monarchy was by then secure enough to allow finger bowls to placed on formal tables again.

Alexander MacDonald of Glenaladale was a Jacobite descendent of the MacDonalds who had sheltered Bonny Prince Charlie in Loch Sheil. For many years he wanted to build a monument at the head of Loch Shiel to commemorate where Bonny Prince Charlie raised his standard at the start of the 1745 Rebellion. It was only after the significant part played by Scottish infantry and cavalry regiments in the defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815 that Hanovarian concern about another Jacobite rebellion had eased and he was finally given permission. Unfortunately he died before it could be completed.

The design was a simple tower with a statue of "a highlander" on its top. MacDonald had to swear that the statue was of a simple and "anonymous highlander" and to this day the exhibition at the National Trust for Scotland visitor centre tells the same story. However, modern day Jacobites such as A Circle of Gentlemen and the 1745 Association know differently.

UnkownHighlanderStatue
Photo by Kutsa from Wikipedia of the statue of the "Anonymous Highlander" on the top of the Glenfinnan monument.

This is no Anonymous Highlander! The tower is high so most people cannot make out the detail of the statue. It is worth looking through a pair of binoculars. Then just look at the fine tailored jacket, the fold of cloth on the left shoulder to represent the common Highlander's untailored plaid (the Feileadh-mhor), the wig, the feather in the bonnet that represented the chief in battle and the Star of St Andrew on his left breast. This is a statue of Bonnie Prince Charlie himself! Here is a contemporary description of the Prince by John Home, a Hanovarian, when the Prince entered Edinburgh after leaving Glenfinnan:

"He was in the prime of youth, tall and handsome, of a fair complexion; he had a light coloured periwig with his own hair combed over the front: he wore the Highland dress, that is a tartan short coat without the plaid, a blue bonnet on his head, and on his breast the star of St. Andrew."


William Mosman - Prince Charles Edward Stuart, 1720 - 1788. Eldest son of Prince James Francis Edward Stuart - Google Art Project
From Wikipedia, this is the portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie as he arrived in Edinburgh by William Mosman painted ~1750.  It  hangs in the National Gallery of Scotland.

In Loch Shiel, all is not what it seems. On the beach at Glenaladale, where the MacDonalds once trod, we gave the toast slàinte mhòr! (great health!) This too is not what it seems. At first it looks like a variation of the common Gaelic toast  slàinte mhath (good health) but it is also a Jacobite toast with a hidden meaning, "health to Marion", which was a code word for Bonnie Prince Charlie! With a code name like that , was he a cross dresser? Well, yes he was. While on the run from Hanovarian troops in 1746 he escaped from Benbecula dressed as Flora MacDonald's maid!

To this day Jacobite sympathisers gather at Glenfinnan Monument on the 19th of August each year and raise a toast to the statue of Bonnie Prince Charlie at the top of the tower, "Slàinte mhòr!"

Sunday, April 05, 2015

Surreal on Loch Shiel, surrounded by solitude and silence.

After visiting the monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie at Glenfinnan, we turned our bows to the SW and were rewarded by the dramatic view of Loch Shiel stretching away through the mountains of Sunart and Moidart. Although it is seldom visited, this view is familiar to millions as it features in the Harry Potter films. The railway to Hogwarts circles the top of Loch Shiel via the Glenfinnan viaduct.

The loch stretches for 28 kilometres until its outflow into the River Shiel. It was carved by a glacier in the Ice Age and is 128m at its deepest. After the ice retreated about 10,000 years ago it was a sea water loch. However, Scotland is slowly rising after the weight of the ice sheet has gone and the loch is now 4.5m above sea level and has been a fresh water loch for the last few thousand years.

There is no public road on either side of the loch and it was only recently that a forestry road was constructed along its SE shore. The loch side still has extensive areas of native woodland (Scots, pine, sessile oak, birch, rowan and alder) as its remoteness protected it from over grazing and clearance by man.

The remoteness of Loch Shiel is preserved to this day as none of the surrounding mountains exceed 3,000 feet in height and therefore achieve Munro status. As a result, they do not attract droves of Munro "baggers", those at the OCD end of the outdoor sports spectrum who collect all 282 (or whatever the current number is) summits. This creates great erosion on the Munros while neighbouring peaks, just a few feet below 3000 feet, often remain in near pristine wilderness.

After leaving Glenfinnan we passed the delightful wooded isle of Eilean Ghleann Fhionainn and then we were surrounded by solitude and silence. The surface of the loch was so calm that the only disturbance to the reflections of the...

...forests and mountains was our wake. These were perfect conditions for spotting An t-Seileag (or Shiela as the monster of Loch Shiel is more commonly known). If you have not heard of Shiela you probably are more familiar with her cousin Nessie  who inhabits the depths of Loch Ness. Other large fresh water lochs in Scotland also have monsters such as Morag in Loch Morar, just to the north of Loch Shiel. We kept our eyes peeled for any sign of disturbance on the surface of the loch but Sheila was shy and there was no sign of her serpentine coils.

 As we slowly made our way down Loch Shiel we savoured every stroke as we passed Sgurr Ghiubhsachain, 849m on our left and...

....Bein Odhar Mhor, 870m on our right.

Thursday, April 02, 2015

Raising the standard of our paddling at Glenfinnan.

It had been an awful winter dogged by bad weather and ill health. Ian and I had originally planned to paddle down Loch Shiel to the sea in February but I was not well and although Ian hoped to paddle it solo, the weather was not really conducive.

A small weather window opened on 17th March and Ian, Mike and I met at the Glenfinnan House Hotel at the head of Loch Shiel. We had intended to stay the previous night to make the most of the day but the hotel did not open till 20th March. However, the hotel manager Duncan Gibson kindly let us park in the hotel car park and to launch from the hotel grounds. This was much appreciated.

The hotel dates from 1755 when it was opened as an inn by Alexander MacDonald who had fought a Culloden for Prince Charles Edward Stuart. It later became a farm then a grand house for the MacDonalds of Glenaladale. It remained in the MacDonald family until 1916. The house was bought by the MacFarlane family in 1971 and they converted it into the current hotel.

As the guests had yet to arrive, this red deer was making the most of the peace and quiet in the hotel grounds.

Our intention was to paddle down fresh water Loch Shiel to the sea then paddle over 60 kilometres to the head of Loch Ailort a sea loch which is only 17 km from Glenfinnan by road. I trolleyed the kayaks to shore while Ian and Mike ran the shuttle. I then enjoyed a very pleasant half hour chatting to Bill, a photographer from Glasgow.

 We were on the water by 14:40 and we found the...

 ...waters of the loch to be incredibly still and glassy calm.

 The mountains were mirrored with...

 ...incredible clarity.

 It was almost a shame to disturb the serenity of the scene with our paddling!

 At first we made for the head of the loch under the steep slopes of Sgurr Ghiubhsachain, 849m.

The beautiful Glenfinnan Catholic Church of St Mary and St Finnan was built by Fr. Donald MacDonald in 1873. He was a brother of the Laird of Glenaladale.

Standing above the shallows at the head of the loch is the Glenfinnan monument to Prince Charles Edward Stuart. He landed here in 1745 in an attempt to regain his father's James's crown from the protestant Hanoverian monarch George II. His father, George I, succeeded  from the childless last Stuart monarch, Queen Anne, due to the Act of Succession of 1701 which prevented a Catholic from becoming monarch.

Those who supported the restoration of James as monarch were called Jacobites after Jacobus, the Latin form of James. Bonny Prince Charlie's rebellion finally came to an end after his defeat at Culloden in 1746. This was the last battle fought on the British Mainland and afterwards the Jacobites were subjected to much persecution. It was not until 1815 that tensions had relaxed enough to allow the monument to be raised in memory of Bonny Prince Charlie and his ill fated rebellion.

You can follow our adventures on Loch Shiel in stereovision by following Ian's blog which starts here.

Wednesday, April 01, 2015

SKIES: three things small, independent paddling groups need to know before paddling with someone new.

Sea kayaking can be a challenging activity and the people you choose to paddle with can have a direct influence on your own safety, not to mention enjoyment. The BCU Star system is supposed to help match people and give some confidence in a new paddling partner's abilities. Certainly many clubs concentrate on coaching their members through the star system. Being in the club environment also lets you get some idea if a new member might match your aspirations for a suitable paddling partner. Clubs often set off on the water in very large groups, possibly in the hope that an unsuitable member will be diluted by the "safety in numbers" mantra. However, my old club had such little confidence in each others' abilities (regardless of how many stars that were held) that they constantly just practised "skills" without actually going anywhere.

So how is the independent minded paddler, who likes to paddle in a small group, going to find paddlers of suitable ability and compatibility?

The very first sea kayak trip that Mike and I ever did together was 30km one way in the winter with few places to land. How did that happen?

The first time Ian and I went paddling together was also in the middle of winter on a multi-day expedition. So how did we decide that it would be safe and enjoyable to paddle together?

Photo by courtesy of  OceanPax blog.

Duncan has eruditely written about "connections" and the first time, he Joan, Ian, Mike and I paddled together so successfully. How did that happen?

At the age of 70 (plus) David is a regular member of our little group both on the water...

...and (Aherm) ashore not to mention regularly starring in P&H adverts. How did that happen?

Phil didn't even have a paddle, never mind a kayak when David and I found him down Ayr beach one day. Look at him now, how did that happen?

Tony and I had never met until our first paddle, 15km out to Ailsa Craig. Calm on the way out, it certainly was not on the way back. So how were we sure about our respective abilities?

Jim and I had never met until our first paddle round St Abb's Head on a big spring tide and a lumpy swell in borrowed boats. How did that come about?

Some think we operate some sort of secret society with funny handshakes and initiation ceremonies but nothing could be further from the truth. The answer is very simple: SKIES, the Sea Kayaking Independent Evaluation System. This truly is an unparalleled system for the non club paddler to meet compatible paddling partners. And...


...unlike the BCU Star system....


...we do not hide our stars away in drawers.


Oh no! We wear our honours and...



...epaulettes with pride.

Monday, March 30, 2015

Charcoal and herons in the Burnt Islands.

From Eilean Dubh we paddled across the north end of the Kyles of Bute to the delightful Burnt Islands. The first we came to was Eilean Fraoich (Heather Isle).


The daffodils were out and it was only the 14th of March. There was little sign of any heather however.


 Looking over the Kyles of Bute to the Bute shore we could see the new composting toilet and cooking shelter that has has been provided for those that follow the Argyll Sea Kayak Trail.

The west going tide had already started so we worked our way uptide close to the island before crossing...

 ...the shipping channel which is clearly marked by red and green cans.

 The tide had just started running so was very gentle but it rips through here at 6 knots on a spring tide. Our destination was Eilean Buidhe (Yellow Isle).

 We landed on rocks at the north end of the islands. Although the rock hereabouts is...

 ...very interesting, composed of contorted lichen covered swirls, it was not the purpose of our visit.

Ian and I  braved bramble covered defences to ascend to the south point of the island. Here are the grass covered remains of a vitrified dun (fort). Its circular walls are 4m thick and enclose an inner area nearly 20m in diameter.It was extensively excavated by JH Maxwell in 1936. He found a thick layer of charcoal at the base of the vitrified walls which was presumably the source of the combustion process that fused the stones of the wall together.

From the dun we had a good view over the Kyles to Eilean Mor which is the largest of the Burnt Islands. Some years ago Mike and I camped on Bute just on the far side of Eilean Dubh. We suffered one of the worst midge attacks we have experienced anywhere. Then we were kept awake most of the night by the cacophony from the large heronry which takes residence in the island's trees in the summer.

The dun also affords a good view over Eilean Bhuidhe to the West Kyle beyond. It must have been a great location for a fort.

 Leaving the Burnt Islands we just had a short trip down the East Kyle to Rhubodach, the Bute ferry terminal  where we had left the cars. An easterly wind got up and we launched the sails. I was able to leave the others far behind by using the forward fin on the Aries. However the others caught up as I had to wait for the ferry MV Loch Dunvegan to leave her berth.  I remember using the MV Loch Dunvegan to cross to Skye in the days before the Skye Bridge was opened in 1995. She was built in 1991 at Fergusons Yard in Port Glasgow. After leaving Skye, she was relief vessel on various crossings until she moved to the Kyles of Bute route in 1999.

 We landed just to the east of the ferry slipway, a few metres from the cars.

We had enjoyed a wonderful day in the Kyles of Bute. We may only have covered 18km but on the other hand we had spent some very pleasant time in the Kames Hotel!