Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Findings one's niche in the NW of Gigha (by Royal Appointment).

We slipped into Wast Tarbert Bay where the sandy beaches of Camas Naireach (modest bay) lie under the rocky slopes of Creag Bhan which despite being only 100m above sea level is the highest point on Gigha. We met several other otters here and you can see a couple of seals trailing Ian.

At the NE end of Camas Naireach we found this remarkable tertiary dolerite dyke. This is the side view and...

This is the end on view.

Our journey north took us into the recess formed by the tombolo beach that has formed between Eilean Garbh and the mainland of Gigha.

It is a very beautiful spot, favoured by HM the Queen on her visits to the Western Isles on the Royal Yacht Britannia and latterly on the charter MV Hebridean Princess.

It is a hauntingly beatiful spot and the...

...north side of the beach is if anything even more beautiful whichever...

...way you look.

It was with some reluctance that we dragged ourselves away from the north beach. Talking of dragging...rumour has it that somewhere on Gigha a Royal changing box on wheels is in storage awaiting being dragged down to the beach for the next visit by Her Majesty to this wonderful spot.

Anyway, we returned to the south beach with our IKEA bags which...

...we filled with driftwood for the fire once we arrived back on Cara.

It really was a marvellous spot but the day was pressing on so we set off...

...round Eilean Garbh but landed again at...

...tiny Port Cuil (niche port) where we...

...gathered more firewood and looked for Groatie Buckies (cowrie shells).

As it was such a grey day it did not bring out the turquoise in the water, neither could we see the Paps of Jura. However nothing could detract from the beauty of our situation.

Sunday, October 18, 2015

Stoned on Gigha.

 From Poll Mor we approached Port na Cathrach on Gigha's exposed west coast. It has long been used for fishing, there are bait holes carved into the solid stone of the rocks near the old pier.

It was good to see the old pier was again in use by the Banff registered creel boat, BF42 Jewel (though her home port is Campbelltown).

Just beyond the pier lies the little sandy Port an t-Samhlaidh. On the hill behind the beach millstones were once carved out of the rock. A partly quarried millstone is still in situ.

 We then decided to circumnavigate the little island of Craro. The ownership of Craro includes the title The Baron of Gigha. This is currently held by Don Dennis who owns both Craro and Achamore House from where he runs his flower essence business. On Craro there is said to be a curious rock formation which is like a stone bull.

 We paddled all the way round Craro but found no obvious landing place so we set off...

 ...for Gigha again disturbing yet another otter on the way.

 There was no landing along the great rock wall of Cnoc Loisgte.

 Previously I have seen a pair of peregrine falcons here but today we saw only a large number of buzzards and a golden eagle.

 At last we arrived at Port an Duin were we...

 ...took a short break for luncheon on the shore below...

 ...the old water mill. I wondered if its mill stones had come from the quarry we had passed earlier. During our stop we were entertained by the silvery autumn song of a robin.

In the NE corner of Port an Duin a pile of stones form another rudimentary pier.

A pile of creels on the rocks suggest that this is another port that is being used by a fishing once more.

Saturday, October 17, 2015

A grey Gigha day.

We woke on Cara to the rumble of the heavy diesel engine of this work boat. it was a grey cold day and...

...we put warm thermals and cags on.

Ceanothus UL72 from Oban set off out through the Sound of Cara as did...

...we as we were going to paddle clockwise round Gigha.

 It did not take long to approach Slocan Leim at the south end of Gigha, beyond which...

 ...we entered Grob Bagh where for a moment we thought that...

 ...the sun might break through the clouds but it did not quite manage,

 In Grob Bagh there is a striking quartzite dyke called Rubha Ban which extends well into the bay.

 The Gigha community wind farm had a fourth and larger wind turbine added in 2014.

 From Grob Bagh we paddled north through...

 ...the Gigha skerries until...

 ...we entered Poll Mor.

 Ahead heads of various sizes appeared in the pool.

 We saw several otters and seals and curiously...

 ...they seemed to be quite oblivious to each other and indeed...

 ...to us. Sammy the otter was quite happy munching crabs on his back before...

...diving down for some more.

Friday, October 16, 2015

The correct protocol required when greeting the Brownie of Cara

 From Gigalum we crossed to the south end of Gigha before heading across the Sound of Cara to...

 ...Port an Stoir  at the north end of Cara where we intended to camp.

The east beach was occupied by some resident goats. I immediately thought of goat bhuna but we decided to land on the west beach instead.

 If one lands on Cara (and especially so, if one intends to stay the night) it is a wise sea kayaker who knows the correct protocol for greeting The Brownie. It is vital to do this before doing anything else. One needs to raise one's cap then doff it in a suitably deferential manner while at the same time saying in a clear voice "Good Evening Mr. Brownie". The only acceptable variation to this protocol is to change the greeting to suit the time of day of one's arrival.

Failure to satisfy The Brownie on this matter will result in him interpreting your arrival as a serious diplomatic faux pas. All manner of mischief may then be unleashed upon your party by this unhappy spirit. Campbells need to be particularly careful as The Brownie is the spirit of a MacDonald who was murdered by a Campbell. Best advice would be to never disclose your surname on Cara. If your first name is Campbell then you must use a nickname or visit Gigha instead. The annals of Scottish sea kayaking are full of tales of The Brownie's mischief; kayaks floating away in the night, paddles being hidden in the bramble bushes, full bottles of malt whisky being emptied during the night and much, much worse.
 We found a little driftwood but were glad of the barbecue coals and logs we had brought with us and soon...

 ...had an excellent fire going on the white shell sands of Cara. previous visitors had burned multiple fire rings in the machair.. hope the Brownie got them!

 Anyway we were just thinking that life did not get better than baked sweet potatoes when...

...this amazing moon rose out of the fog on the Sound of Gigha.