Saturday, September 10, 2011

The ejaculating spoots of Arisaig.

Donald and I first went on an expedition together to the Skye Cuillin nearly 40 years ago. Sadly the passage of years has not been kind to my knees and the Cuillin receded on the horizon behind us as we rounded Eilean Ighe in small boat and kayak.  The sea was still rough after the fresh  early morning winds. I cut through the clapotis by the reefs but Donald in his boat had to take a wider line till we entered the quiet waters of Arisaig North Channel at low water springs.

Inside the Arisaig skerries we entered a strange new world, which contrasted with the Rum Cuillin mountains on the horizon. The tidal lagoons inside the reefs had nearly emptied, exposing acres of sands that are usually still covered at most low tides.

We were surprised to see many small boats pulled up on the sand banks and the skerries seemed almost thronged with people. Many were carrying buckets and others seemed to be intently studying the sand at their feet.

Then as we drew closer we saw the most amazing sight. Mysterious jets of water were spouting high in the air all over the sands.


The water spouts come from razor clams (spoots in local parlance), which live deep in the sands. The locals watch for the water jets then sprinkle salt round the small hole through which they come. A few seconds later the spoot pops up through the hole and is easily caught. They are delicious.

Eigg1 has produced an amazing video of catching spoots on the nearby island of Eigg!

Friday, September 09, 2011

Thank goodness for sea kayaking!


In the summer holidays of 2010 my brother Donald joined Phil, Jennifer and I for a paddle round Gigha. At the time I was recovering from my knee operation and had great hopes I might be mountaineering again in 2011. So I said to him "next year we will go to the Cuillins". Sadly my optimism has not been matched by reality. So when he phoned from Arisaig, back in this year's August holidays,  I had to decline a mountain trip. Even the little Sgurr of Eigg at 393m was now beyond me. Fortunately sea kayaking is ideal for someone with a lower limb disability, so we decided to go for a boating trip from Portnadoran camp site instead. This photo shows the view from Portnadoran beach to the Skye Cuillin mountains rising into the clouds.

My little kayak on its trolley was easy to get down to the shore. Donald had a much tougher job as the boat and outboards was too heavy and the trailer sunk into the sand. He had to leave the outboards at the road end and then...

...go back to carry them down one by one. I couldn't help him so he was pretty worn out...

...by the time we got both boats to the water's edge.

At last we were ready to go. We were setting off for either one or two day's wild camping. The owner of the Portnadoran camp site was very helpful. He told Donald that if we got stuck anywhere, we could give him a ring and he would come and collect us. This was a very kind offer but we reassured him we hoped not to take advantage of his generous spirit.

At last we felt the freedom of the open sea, with the magnificent Rum Cuillin mountains on the horizon. I might not be climbing the Cuillin anymore, so thank goodness for sea kayaking!

Thursday, September 08, 2011

Sea kayak fishing.

Sea kayak fishing is great fun and can supplement your diet with fresh food, especially if you are away on expedition for some time. Most of us fish, Billy and myself have favoured simple hand lines. Others prefer a rod...

 ...as there is no doubt that they are more effective at catching fish...

...like this pollack.

Of course sea kayaking takes you some great locations where you can fish from the shore and then a full size rod is an even greater advantage than a hand line.

However, a full size rod can be a handful to store assemble and catch fish on a kayak so I have stuck with my hand line until now.

Tony caught the top three mackerel. I caught the bottom one!  It was time to get some new gear.

So I got some advice from Dave Dominy at AB Fishing Tackle. He suggested their kayak fishing starter kit. This has a very short one piece fibreglass rod, the Zebco Kayak King.

It is coupled with an Abu Blue Max multiplier reel and comes with jiggers, lures and line. I found the multiplier reel more difficult to learn than a spinner. This one has a magnetic brake and a friction brake to control over run of the reel and the inevitable bird's nest of line. The magnetic  brake works well but I couldn't see much effect of the friction brake. I learned to use my thumb to create a little braking effect on the reel and I have been surprised how effective this little rod is at casting from a kayak. If I want to do some trolling, I simply stuff the rod handle down the front of my BA and paddle/sail away.

It stows really easily on the foredeck, even sharing space with my Flat Earth kayak sail! I am particularly fond of fresh mackerel and have found that a good time to catch them on the Solway is about an hour into the ebb tide off the headlands on the islands at the mouth of Fleet Bay. July is the peak month for mackerel in these parts. First time out with the rod, I caught a mackerel straight away at about 7m down. Since then I have not been so lucky but the mackerel seem to have been pretty thin this August and September.

By the way, who says men can't multi-task? How about kayaking, sailing fishing and photographing just for starters?

Seeing sand eels in the shallows is a good sign, as are diving terns and gannets.

Sometimes shoals of white bait explode out of the water as the mackerel chase them. This one landed on my foredeck and was promptly employed as bait.

This mackerel was so greedy it took a hook even although it already had a sand eel in its mouth.


If we catch mackerel, we land straight away, fillet them, sprinkle with sea salt...

...and get them into the frying pan with...

...a little oil and a sprig of rosemary.

Nothing is as tasty as eating a mackerel caught 15 minutes before!

Wednesday, September 07, 2011

Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown Volume 2 DVD preview.

I wasn't going to review Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown Vol 2 DVD for several reasons. Many of you will know I am friends with both Gordon and with Simon Willis, who has produced, directed and edited the DVD.  Also, I appear in the expedition section as I was lucky enough to be on the voyage to St Kilda aboard the MV Cuma that features in the DVD (as a full fare paying passenger). However, now that I have have made a declaration of interest, I feel better and you can keep it in mind to judge whether I am being objective or not.

Almost exactly two years ago, I published one of the first reviews of Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown Vol 1 DVD. In it I said that it had achieved a new standard for sports technique videos. I was not surprised when it went on to win several awards.

I have watched the preview of Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown 2 many times and it has raised the bar yet again. This is no dull technique DVD, filmed on flat water, there is a great deal of white water in this DVD! The technique section is divided into 8 parts covering up to date ideas on handling rescue situations and towing. The filming has been done in the environment and weather conditions that developing sea kayakers aspire to. It shows Gordon illustrating rescue and self rescue techniques while actually coaching students. Some of them, like Janice, are extremely long suffering! However, don't get the impression that Gordon is not prepared to get wet. Far from it, my heart was in my mouth watching him swim his kayak ashore then launch again in heavy surf, which was breaking into a rocky gully on the remote island of Cearstaigh off the coast of Harris. The final section on "anticipation and reaction" is designed to help you avoid the need to be rescued and builds nicely on the handling of a kayak in fast moving tidal waters that was introduced in DVD 1.

As with Volume 1, the filming and particularly the quality of the "on the water" sound recording is outstanding.  Volume 2 also features a journey, this time to the remote St Kilda archipelago, which lies 40 miles west of Scotland's Outer Hebrides. For me this is what makes this series of instructional DVDs unique. It is learning techniques in the context of and environment in which they will be applied. Ultimately sea kayaking is about the journey and learning the techniques, so clearly demonstrated in this DVD, will make your journey safer. During filming of the journey section, one of the team capsized and made a wet exit on the exposed SW coast of St Kilda. The rescue took seconds and a second rescuer was standing by to tow both rescuee and rescuer off the rocks if required. The paddler had not been dressed for immersion and quickly began to feel cold but a variety of spare over-cags, hats and gloves were produced to prevent hypothermia and the planned route was changed, given the weather conditions and the rescued paddler's condition. It was a wonderful, unrehearsed demonstration of the effectiveness of the techniques demonstrated earlier and more importantly the overall leadership and planning required to paddle safely in a demanding environment.

St Kilda features throughout the DVD and there are interviews with both Hamish Gow, the first paddler to reach it and Donald Thomson, the paddler who led the party which made the first return crossing.  The DVD is enriched by cine film of St Kilda shot by Gow in the 1960's. His description of his navigational method is a treat, though it might not feature in the BCU 5* syllabus!

I think that kayakers of all levels will learn from this DVD. Each time I have paddled with Gordon Brown I have come away with the confidence to take on more challenging conditions when paddling on my own trips. Sadly not every sea kayaker can have personal coaching from Gordon but this DVD is the next best thing. Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown Volume 2 is the result of a unique synergy between a coach at the top of his game and a talented film maker, who is himself a sea kayaker. I expect to see this DVD win several more awards for Gordon and Simon.

The DVD is due to have its first public showing at Paddle 2011 the Scottish Canoe and Kayak Show on 22nd/23rd October 2011. It will be available for purchase at the show and thereafter at www.seakayakwithgordonbrown.com

The cover of the preview DVD included this contents information:


ASSISTED RESCUES
The deep water rescue in detail. Also the scoop rescue for an injured kayaker.

SELF RESCUE FOUNDATIONS
Gordon’s coaching programme will help you teach yourself this vital skill.

SELF RESCUES
Starts with paddle float straddle and leg hook and leads on full re-enter and roll.

TECHNICAL LANDINGS
Heart stopping footage of landing and launching safely on  wave swept shores.

CONTACT TOWS - Watch Online
Making and modifying contact tows, plus their correct use in calm and rough water.

DISTANCE TOWS
Modifying and using tow lines. Using for rafted and ‘dog-lead’ tows on injured kayakers.

RESCUE SCENARIOS
Kayakers tackle challenging real-life rescue scenarios.

ANTICIPATION & REACTION
Rough water paddling skills to help you avoid the need to be rescued or towed.

Tuesday, September 06, 2011

Seil Sound under threat.

We visit Seil and its Sound regularly. We have been three times in the last year. My first visit by kayak and sailing dinghy was in July 1967, so I do like the area a great deal.

This view is towards the NE from Bagh Lachlainn at the north end of the island of Luing.

On the east side of the Sound (on the right horizon) lies...

...the delightful little bay of Port na Morachd which is just to the north of...

 this band of trees and under the steep slopes of Dun Crutagain (273m).

I was dismayed when I learned from the Save Seil Sound campaign that a Polish company plans to build a huge fish farm consisting of 12 cages, each 32m  in diameter, covering an area of 4 football pitches on this very spot. There will also be a service barge 18m by 26m with a two storey building on top. When it is running it will contain 450,000 adult salmon and you can imagine the effect of the pollution and parasites which a farm of this size will release. Seil Sound is very enclosed and shallow and I am sure that the wild life will suffer even more than the view.

Speaking of the view, this is looking SSW down the Sound towards Torsa, Luing and Scarba.

This is looking NW towards Seil with the mountains of Mull behind. We have seen porpoises, seals, otters, herons, cormorants, shags, terns, guillemots, black guillemots, razorbills, oyster catchers, eider duck, geese, swans, eagles, buzzards and hen harriers here. I will be very sorry if this wild place is industrialised in this way.

If you wish to make a comment, either for  or against the proposed fish farm, to the Argyll and Bute planners you can do so here.

If you support the campaign to save Seil Sound, you can join them on Facebook here.

A flying crossing from Bute.

From Garroch Head on Bute we set off for...

...the Little Cumbrae island in perfect sea kayaking conditions. We had sun, a following wind and helpful waves. My maximum speed was 13.6km/hour and for most of the stretch from the Little Cumbrae to Portencross, we kept up 8-11km/hour.

We were soon back at Portencross Castle on the north Ayrshire coast..

Garroch Head can just be seen in the distance, behind my mast.

This was definitely my fastest time for this crossing which is one of our regular trips.

With views like this to Arran, you might understand the frequency of our return visits.

This little trip was 34km and was less than an hour's drive from Glasgow. I highly recommend it if you are ever in the area. From the south end of Bute, the view over to the mountains round Glen Sannox on Arran is superb, easily a match for the more famous mountain and sea view over Loch Scavaig to the Skye Cuillin from Elgol.

Any port in a storm.

As Jim and I approached Garroch Head on Bute, we were looking for a suitable spot to have a second luncheon...

... and perhaps to weather out a thunderstorm, which threatened to spill over the Sound of Bute from Arran.

 We found this little cobble beach...

...in a break in the lava beds of Garroch Head.

The lava bed rock had been worn into amazing pinnacles and channels by a combination of wave action and the cobbles.

 We enjoyed the view...

 from a little platform...

...above the beach. We wondered how many of our fellow seafarers and ancestors had been grateful for the shelter offered by this little beach if caught out in a storm.

 However HMS Dragon seemed unperturbed by the weather...

...and at last the sun broke through and shone down on Gen Sannox again. It was time to move on.