Wednesday, March 02, 2011

Swanning about in Oban.

Back in Oban harbour we came across...

...FV Lady Evelyn. Sadly she has seen better days. But possibly there is hope that she might see the high seas again.

We were now nearly back at our launch spot below McCaig's Folly and the Oban Distillery.

 No sooner had we arrived, than we were closely inspected by the local customs inspector...

...in case we had any contraband luncheon left. Only when the inside of each cockpit had been thoroughly searched, were we allowed to leave the beach...

...and make our way back through the streets of Oban to where we had left the car.

Tuesday, March 01, 2011

Wot a Loti toing and froing in Oban harbour.


The rain started as we continued up the NW coast of Kerrera. The rain hissed into the calm sea around us...

 ..and the seascape turned steadily to muted shades of grey.

Phil cut a colourful dash on the Firth as we approached the northern entrance to Oban Bay.

 We let Loti* enter the channel before us and enjoyed a good surf in on her wake.

We stopped for a second luncheon on a pebble beach on the south side of the channel below the Hutchison Monument.

No sooner had we set off than  MV Isle of Mull approached Maiden Isle at the mouth of the channel.

It is a tight squeeze for ships entering the harbour and sea kayaks have to keep clear! Again, we caught her wake, before it was our turn to enter the harbour...

 ...before MV Eigg, the Lismore ferry, nipped in behind us.

In the meantime, MV Mull had to wait for Loti, to turn round her passengers and clear the berth. A busy spot!

* MV Lord of the Isles

Monday, February 28, 2011

Turning a corner on Kerrera

 We were unable to land at Gylen Castle as there was some surf breaking on the steep rocky beach so we carried on towards the south west point of Kerrera. The crashing of the waves on the dark rock of Kerrera was the only sound.

On the way, we passed interesting natural castles of conglomerate rock sitting on top of what looked like a layer of dsark basaltic rock.


The mountains of Mull came in to view as we entered the gap between Rubha nan Feundain and little Bach Island. It was the height of a large spring tide, which was travelling north through the gap at 5km/hour. All was flat as there was almost no wind but this can be a bumpy place in wind over tide conditions. It is also a good spot to see porpoises.


Turning north into the Firth of Lorn, there were no trees on this exposed side of Kerrera.  The shore alternated between steep rocks and great smooth gently sloping slabs of basalt, like natural slipways.

Away to the north, NLV Pole Star was working at navigation buoys on the approach to the Sound of Mull. A blink of sun lit up the snow covered hills of Morvern, contrasting with an otherwise grey sea scape.

Port Phadruaig offered a welcome break for a winter luncheon. We were surrounded by calmness and serenity

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Max, the parrot vampire of Kerrera!

We paddled down the Sound of Kerrera under darkening skies.

The great bulk of Scarba appeared in the distance and the wind dropped away to nothing.

The smoke from a lonely cottage on Little Horseshoe Bay curled lazily skyward. It is the home of Yvonne Macmillan and at least a dozen parrots!

Photo STV.

Yvonne has set up a sanctuary for distressed parrots on this remote spot on the island of Kerrera. Parrots are very companionable birds but need a lot of care and attention, otherwise they can develop behaviour problems. The island of Kerrera is now a sanctuary for distressed parrots. Yvonne is a parrot behaviour consultant, possibly the only one in Scotland. In 2009, STV made a charming short film of her interesting story. In it you will hear how a distressed Max bit Yvonne's neck right on the jugular! My father was a vet, my daughter and paddling companion David are vets and I know how pets can enhance peoples lives. It is good to know that people like Yvonne are prepared to look after needy companion animals.

With "Pieces of Eight, Pieces of Eight" and "This parrot is not deceased, it bit my jugular!" ringing in our ears, we  continued down the wooded east coast of Kerrera...

...until we came across the ruins...

...of Gylen Castle, which was quite free of parrots, though it looked spooky enough for more traditional vampires!.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Better days in the Sound of Kerrera

This was the view from the sea front at Oban. In the near distance the island of Kerrera shelters Oban from the open waters of the Firth of Lorn. In the distance, the mountains of Mull were topped by a snow covered Ben More, at  966m, the highest mountain in the Inner Hebrides.

 A front was rapidly crossing the sky from the SE...

 ...as we crossed Oban Bay to Kerrera.

Ahead a monument to David Hutcheson stands above the narrow channel, which the many ferries from Oban take to the islands. Hutchieson founded a shipping company, which has now become Caledonian Macbrayne.

To the north the mountains of Morvern were stll in the sunlight but low lying Lismore was already in the shade. The Lismore ferry, MV Eigg, was entering the channel below Dunollie Castle.

 As we approached Mount Pleasant on Kerrara we came across a ruined ship which was exposed...

...by the low spring tide. She had clearly seen better days.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Sea kayak Oban

Scotland always been lucky to have a good number of really excellent sea kayak retailers. In the past I have posted about the late Mike Thomson of Scottish Paddler supplies and the good folk Geoff and Anne Turner of |Kari-tek in Ayrshire. This time I want to highlight Stuart and Cathy Wagstaff of Sea Kayak Oban.

Their shop is situated right in the heart of Oban only 250m from the railway station and 50m from the beach! The above photo shows the view through the main doors into the covered reception area. The main shop is inside the yellow building straight ahead, the offices and coffee room/briefing area to the right. Further storage, changing/drying rooms are out of shot to the right.

I have never seen so many sea kayaks in one place before. This is only some of the new kayak display, the rest are inside the main shop. The demo and outfitting fleets and crates of unloaded new season kayaks are stored elsewhere in the extensive building. Please note, the white Nordkapp LV in the foreground is not for sale. It is very much mine!

Inside the main shop there are more new kayaks plus all the usual sea kayaking accessories. The shop also stocks mainstream outdoor gear from brands like Mountain Hardwear but at very competitive prices, compared with the city stores such as Tiso or Cotswold Outdoor. There is a reading corner, with chairs, to browse the many brochures and magazines and books for sale.

Stuart Wagstaff (right) and his wife Cathy made Phil (left) and I very welcome with a cup of freshly brewed coffee when we arrived at 0840. The coffee area has some very useful displays of mannequins wearing what a newcomer might wear while sea kayaking and what an aficionado might wear. There are also heated and dehumidified changing rooms for those taking part in coaching sessions, which the shop arrange, or for those borrowing demo kayaks or hiring kayaks and camping gear from the shop's extensive outfitting department. You could fly into Scotland and arrive in Oban with just hand luggage by bus or train or perhaps fly into Oban airport or even land in the bay by seaplane from Glasgow. Within an hour or so, you could be fully kitted out and setting off on a sea kayaking expedition.

With a demo kayak on the trolley, it took only two minutes to get to the beach.

This is the view 50m from the front door of Sea Kayak Oban, the West coast beckons! It is a great shop in a great location,. The combination must make it one of the World's best sea kayak retailers!