New Year's Day

Contrary to popular opinion, not all Scots have a hangover on New Year's day. Tony, David, Phil and I met in the early morning at Seafield car park in Ayr.


It was bitterly cold as we paddled south towards the Heads of Ayr...


...but the stunning view of Arran's wintry mountains made it worthwhile.

Sea kayaking from Loch Feochan to Loch Etive

A 36km paddle from the south side of Loch Feochan via Oban harbour to Taynuilt pier. It took 2 hours to drive from Glasgow to Taynuilt pier. It took another 1hr 45mins to run the shuttle to Loch Feochan and get on the water.

Tidal streams:

Loch Feochan narrows

At low water the norrows almost dry leaving a norrow channel of about 0.3m. As a result the ingoing flood does not begin until the level outside the narrows has risen by 1m this results in the flood running for only 4 hours and the ebb running for 8 hours.

Ingoing flood begins -o355 HW Oban (+0300 HW Dover) 5 knots springs

Outgoing ebb begins +0030 HW Oban (-0500 Dover) 5 knots springs

HW inside the loch as HW Oban (-0530 HW Dover)

Sound of Kerrera the flood enters the south end and exits the north end by Oban

In mid channel

NE going flood begins +0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover) up to 2.5 knots springs

SW going ebb begins -0155 HW Oban (+0500 HW Dover) up to 2.5 knots springs


Falls of Lora, Loch Etive
These times may vary by up to 0130hrs dependent on meterological conditions, more often occuring earlier rather than later.

West going ebb starts HW Oban +0210 (-0320 HW Dover) 6 knots
Ebb strongest waves HW Oban +0430 till LW Oban

East going flood starts HW Oban -0320 (LW Oban +0250) ( +0335 HW Dover) 6 knots
Best waves HW Oban -0100 till HW Oban +0030

Up to date info on Falls of Lora.

On the day Oban tide times were:
HW 02:10 LW 08:35 HW 16:03 LW 21:06
So, at Falls of Lora:
Flood starts LW Oban +0250 09:25
Best waves HW Oban -0100 15:03 till HW Oban +0030 16:33 (we found only a gentle ingoing current of 1 knot at 1610)
Ebb starts HW Oban +0210 18:13
Strongest waves HW oban +0430 20:33 till LW Oban 21:06

Kilmaronag Narrows, Loch Etive

As Falls of Lora

Bonawe Narrows, Loch Etive

west going ebb starts +0215 HW Oban (-0316 HW Dover) 2.5 knots springs
east going flood starts -0300 HW Oban (+0355 HW Dover) 1.5 knots springs


Loch Feochan narrows looking west to Mull.


Oban nestling under McCaig's Folly on the hill.


Firth of Lorn off Ganavan.


Sunset behind the mountains of Mull from Loch Etive.

An icy start at Loch Feochan.

Stopped in his tracks in Loch Feochan.

A cottage and a castle at Loch Feochan

Luncheon below a volcano.

Arrival in Oban

The Pharos and the Pole Star

Better days for some in Oban harbour.

Dark deeds on the north shore of Oban Bay.

Waving goodbye to Oban.

The skies cleared over the Firth of Lorn.

A welcome break at Ganavan.

All quiet at Dunstaffnage

Made in Scotland from girders and glaciers.

Of time and tide at the Falls of Lora

Last supper at Dun Creagach, Loch Etive

In the picture: a blaze of glory in Glen Etive

The end of a perfect day, in Loch Etive.


Photo album map

The Outer Hebrides seakayaking around the isles & St Kilda

The thud at the front door this morning could mean only one thing. The new Pesda Press volume "The Outer Hebrides, sea kayaking around the isles and St Kilda" by Mike Sullivan, Robert Emmott and Tim Pickering had arrived.

You cannot possibly expect an unbiased and critical review from me on this beautiful book, which is well written and beautifully illustrated, mostly with the authors' own photos.

Two of the authors are my friends, it's an area I love, a few of my photos have even slipped in, as has one of my daughter's photos and I am currently writing another volume in the series; South West Scotland from Ardnamurchan to the Solway. So, as you can see, I am so, so biased.

I will therefore keep this short and factual. If you intend paddling the Outer Hebrides buy it. If you don't intend paddling the Outer Hebrides buy it anyway and you will change your mind!

The end of a perfect day, in Loch Etive.

We drifted slowly, treasuring the moment and watching the sunset until the last red ember had cooled and there were only ash grey clouds on the western horizon.


Turning to the east again, we paddled deep into the confines of the "fjord like" Loch Etive.


The mountains and the darkness gradually hemmed us in until we were paddling in pitch darkness. A compass bearing took us back safely to the pier at Taynuilt. It was to be my last paddle before my knee operation in March but that is not why I treasure this paddle's recollection. Sadly, it was to be the last paddle with our friend Jim B. We will never forget him, his smile lightened the darkest night.

In the picture: a blaze of glory in Glen Etive

By the time we launched from Achnacloich, on the south shore of Loch Etive, the sun had set. With the approach of night, a layer of cloud flooded the sky from inland and the summit of Ben Cruachan was lost from view.


After a while, I turned round to see where Jim W was. I was amazed to see that the sun, which was by now well below the horizon, was illuminating the advancing edge of cloud in a fiery glow above the distant mountains of Mull.


I quickly got the camera out and shouted directions to Jim, to get him in the picture."North, North, North!" I shouted. He was some way away and could not hear properly. He changed direction but had no idea what the excitement was about...


...until he too stopped in his tracks...


and looked over his shoulder.


The four of us agreed it was one of the most spectacular sunsets we had ever seen but all too quickly its ephemeral beauty was gone and the glen was left in the gathering darkness.

Last supper at Dun Creagach, Loch Etive

As the sun sank in the west a golden light suffused the wintry mountain scene to the east. Jim W and Jim B were dwarfed by the scale of the landscape.


As we paddled on, shapely Ben Cruachan (1126m) came to dominate the horizon but its size belittled the distance still to cover to our destination, which lay at its feet.


Second luncheon seemed a long time ago, it was time for a break. We paddled past the sheltering Abbot's Isles into a delightful stony beach under the gardens of Achnacloich House.


As the sun set, we prepared and ate a fine supper finished off by the last of the Christmas cake, freshly brewed filter coffee, a selection of fine malts and finally, a poke of chocolate caramel sweets provided by Jim B.

As I cast my eyes about this beautiful scene, I noticed the tell tale flattened conical shape of an ancient fort. It is Dun Creagach and is probably at least 2,000 years old. It never ceases to amaze me, but even in the remotest parts of our travels by sea kayak, wherever we land was also where our ancestors would have landed. If you look round carefully, you will often spot signs of their presence in this ancient land. We could see why our ancestors had chosen this spot to live their lives.


The day was drawing to an end, the sun was nearly set and the temperature was now plummeting like a stone. It was time to return to the kayaks. We did not realise it at the time but this was to be our last supper with Jim B. What a fantastic memory to have of a special friend.

Of time and tide at the Falls of Lora

We drifted under the bridge at the the Connel Narrows on Loch Etive at 5km/hr.


It was 16:13, two hours before the start of the ebb.


It was a neap tide and despite the current, it was like a millpond over the shelf of the Falls of Lora.


At a spring tide on the flood we might have expected some decent standing waves here. On the ebb on a spring tide, the Falls can be very spectacular as Loch Etive drains into the sea over a rock shelf.


We were now being carried into the inner part of Loch Etive and the horizon ahead became closed in by the mountains.


Watching the bridge, we drifted backwards in the current for some way...


...until the bridge became obscured by a bend in the loch.


I am not the only member of my family to have enjoyed this view from a small boat. This photo was taken in July 1927 by my great grandfather, who explored many of the west coast lochs and islands by rowing boat. The view has hardly changed at all, despite the passage of 83 years.


This photo shows the Falls of Lora on the ebb tide, 2 days after springs at 12:08, when the best waves were predicted to form between 11:09 and 12:56.


Photo copyright Simon Willis www.seakayakroutes.com

This photo, by my friend Simon, was taken from a platform under the bridge at the 2006 Storm Gathering. It is one day before springs, on the ebb and shows the Falls in an altogether different light.

Its amazing the difference a few hours can make, if not 83 years!