The stories of contrasting graves on Oronsay

The Prior's House at Oronsay has recently been made weather tight and the ancient grave slabs, which were previously exposed to the elements, have been moved inside. The grave slabs of two warriors lie on the floor but the others are arranged vertically around the walls.


High on the east wall the remains of another cross have been reassembled.


Beneath, stands the grave slab of one of the Priors. The inscription reads:

[HIC] IACET D(OMI)N(U)S DONALLDUS / MACDUFFIE PRIO[R
(CON)VEN/TUALIS DE O[RR]ANSAY QUI / OBIIT AN(N)O MDL-

'Here lies Sir Donald MacDuffie, Conventual Prior of Oransay, who died in the year
155-'

It is known that he died after a long illness in 1554 so it is likely that the slab was carved in expectation of his death but the final digit of the year was never added.


These two memorials stand in the McNeill family mortuary. The inscription on the right hand one reads:

In memory of / Alexander McNeill / Laird of Colonsay and Oransay / Gigha and
Ardlussa / aged 59 / Anne Elizabeth Carstairs / his wife / fourth daughter and coheiress
of / John Carstairs Esqre / of Woodhurst and Warboys, Hunts / aged 47 / and
two of their daughters / Cecil Anne / aged 17 / and / Hester Mary / aged 6 / who all
perished / in the wreck of the "Orion" / at Port-Patrick on her passage / from
Liverpool to Glasgow / 18th June 1850 / and are buried in the / Island of Gigha


The Orion was an 890 ton steam paddle steamer which was wrecked on the rocks at the entrance to Portpatrick harbour on 18/06/1850. She had 38 crew and 212 passengers. Despite sinking in full view of the town and the efforts of local fishermen, 41 lives lost. There was such an outcry following the sinking, as reported here in The Illustrated London News, that henceforth British ships had to carry enough lifeboats for every passenger.


In the graveyard there are several graves to unknown sailors. The inscription of this one reads:

MN / A sailor of the / 1939 - 1945 / war / Merchant Navy / Found 10th July 1946 /
Known unto God

Oronsay and Colonsay by their position to the west of Scotland have been where many sailors lost in the Atlantic have been washed ashore.


Due to the swell, we had been unable to land on Eilean nan Ron, to the SW of Oronsay. I had hoped to find the simple wooden cross on the machair which marks the grave of Edmondo Armando Sottocarnola. It is situated near the old seal hunter's hut which you can see to the right of the wave.


Edmondo was an Italian civilian who was being deported to Canada with other Italian and German civilians in 1940. They were on the Arandora Star when she was sunk on 1/7/1940 by the German U-boat U47. Of about 1736 people aboard, about 867, almost half, were drowned.

The original wooden cross marking Edmondo's resting place decayed long ago but the late Finlay McFadyen of Colonsay made a replacement in October 2002.

The crosses of Oronsay

Walking up to Oronsay House, I asked Mrs Colburn if it was easy to get to the Oronsay Cross.

"You will find two crosses very easily, they are just beside the Priory."

"Oh, I had wondered if we might have passed the old stump of a cross down by the dunes." I replied.

Without a hint of irritation, Mrs Colburn quietly answered "That 'old stump' is the memorial I erected to the memory of my dear husband in the Millennium year."

Oops! "Sorry!"

She continued "I do hope you enjoy your visit, it's such a nice day and there have been so few like it this year."


The Great Cross of Oronsay stands inconspicuously against the farm buildings at the back of the Priory graveyard. It is finely carved on both sides and is thought to have come from Iona.


It has suffered from the weathering of five centuries but this drawing, which was published in Thomas Pennent's, A Tour in Scotland and Voyage to the Hebrides, 1772, shows the west face in detail, when it had been standing for only 272 years. The inscription reads:

+HEC EST CR/UX COLINI F/ILII CRISTI/NI M(EIC)DUFACI
'This is the cross of Colinus (Malcolm), son of Christinus MacDuffie

It was carved for Malcolm MacDuffie, the Lord of Colonsay, some time after 1472 and erected before 1500.


This is the beautiful east face of the Oronsay Cross. Next to the Kildalton Cross, on nearby Islay, it is one of the finest crosses in all of SW Scotland.


Another interesting, but older, cross stands on a little knoll to the east of the Priory. In 1881 just the shaft was standing and the present head of the cross lay on the ground beside it. There is some doubt as to whether this is the original head but it has now been replaced atop the shaft.


It is decorated by a rather portly and smiling figure.


From the grounds of the Priory, you can look out over the sea to Jura, Islay and Ireland. It is said that St Columba, who had been banished from Ireland, landed here but proceeded to Iona because he could still see his homeland from Oronsay.

Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown DVD #2

My recent review of Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown DVD did not have any video footage. Simon Willis has just released this promo clip, which illustrates very nicely what the DVD is about.

Sea Kayak with Gordon Brown trailer from Simon Willis on Vimeo.

A reluctant visitor to the Priory, Oronsay (not London).

When I first mentioned to David that I wanted to visit the Oronsay Priory, he became quite distressed.

"They'll never let us out, we'll need to go into rehab and walk the twelve steps!"

"Relax David, its not the Clinic, it's just a very well preserved religious complex."

So we found ourselves approaching the beautifully maintained grounds of the Oronsay Priory.


The buildings date from the mid 1300's but there may have been a chapel here since St Columba's time. The Priory was founded by the Lords of the Isles and became a centre for religious sculpture until about 1500. Some say St Oran gave his name to Oronsay but I rather doubt this as Oronsay is quite a common name for tidal islands on the west coast. It comes from the Old Norse and means island of the ebb tide which is exactly what Oronsay is. You can walk to it from neighbouring Colonsay at low tide.


It is one of the best preserved medieval religious buildings in Scotland. It was too remote to be destroyed in the Reformation, like many of its more accessible contemporary religious buildings.


Although there are no traces of its roofs, the walls, including those of the cloisters, are still in remarkably good repair.


Fortunately for David, our departure from the Priory was unhindered by a locked door. He took a deep breath, followed by a great sigh of relief.

Looking after the corncrakes of Oronsay

Oronsay is managed by the owner, Mrs Colburn, in partnership with the RSPB. The RSPB manage a farm on the island with arable pastures, Luing cattle and sheep. Their management is designed to provide an environment to encourage the corncrake and the chough. In late summer, corncrakes and their chicks hide in long pasture and are killed by conventional cutting.


On Oronsay, large patches of nettles are grown and the cutting takes place late in the season. Uncut areas are left in each field as cover for the corncrakes.


There are large patches of specially grown nettles near Oronsay House...


...where we left Mrs Colburn.


From her room in this beautiful 18th century house, she must love the sound of corncrakes in the morning!

North American residents on Oronsay.

After rounding the southern skerries of Oronsay we entered a great bay with some prominent buildings at its head.


In a little cove, a small flock of Canada geese were milling round. These were introduced to the UK from North America over 300 years ago and they since have spread over most of the UK.


We arrived on another huge sandy beach.


It was protected from the swell by a ring of skerries.


We made our way over the machair behind the beach and met a very nice lady with an American accent. She had been picking plastic litter off the beach. We got chatting as we helped her carry bags of litter up to the farm.

"Are you on holiday here?" I asked, spotting her accent.

"Actually, I own the island." she replied quietly.

The shell mounds, skerries and swells of SE Oronsay

From the sea we got a fine view of the coast of Oronsay with the cliffs of Colonsay behind. We spotted an occasional mound, covered with lush green grass. Remarkably, these are the rubbish tips of our ancestors. They date from prior to 4000BC in the Mesolithic period. The sandy beaches, exposed at low tide, were full of shell fish and our ancestors had crossed to these isles in search of food 6,000 years ago! It kind of put our "crossing" into some perspective.


Away to the south, the Paps of Jura were still wreathed in mist but the sun was beginning to break through on the northern slopes of Islay.


We now entered the incredible channels within the skerries of Oronsay. In the distance, we could just see the mountains of Donegal.


Depending on the state of the tide, you might end up in a dead end but...


...we broke out of the shelter of the skerries and felt the gentle...


...lift of Atlantic swells, before they ended their long journey on the skerries of Oronsay.

A pineapple and a bottle of malt, on Oronsay!

David had been working right up until 7pm on the evening before we left for this trip. He had shopped, packed and arrived at my house at 630am the next morning, such is his dedication in attending Seakayakphoto.com outings. On top of that lack of sleep, his night on Oronsay had not been good either. So it was no surprise that he was last to rise. Being a habitual slow packer myself, it was with some smugness that I now leisurely watched him pack.


His varied rations included: lo sugar beans, fresh raspberries, smoked salmon slices, an exceedingly ripe Brie (that just about packed itself), a pineapple and finally, a bottle of a particularly fine malt whisky, a 12 year old Highland Park from Orkney.


Finally, we were all packed and shipshape. We were now ready for an exploration of the seas surrounding Oronsay!

The Seakayakphoto.com First Breakfast ®

After the Luing cattle moved on, the sun broke through and we had the little beach on Oronsay to ourselves. Behind the dunes, the higher ground of Beinn Eibhne on nearby Colonsay was still in the shade.


It was now time for first breakfast.

The staff, here at Seakayakphoto.com, are often asked what sustains us on our long and prodigious voyages amongst the far flung isles of the Hebrides. Obviously Guinness and malt whisky form an important part of our rations but our staple is the Seakayakphoto.com First Breakfast ®.


Let's take a closer look.

For this tasty little morsel you will need:

- 1 tortilla wrap (this form of bread is long lasting and all but uncrushable)
- 2 rashers of traditionally dry cured bacon (preferably from Little's, the specialist pork butcher)
- 6 cherry tomatoes, preferably home grown
- 1 potato scone (previously bought or made)
- 1 thin slice of Gruyere cheese
- a little olive oil

Fry the bacon, tomatoes and potato scone in a little olive oil. Once cooked, transfer to a plate and put the tortilla wrap in the bottom of the frying pan, then place the bacon, tomatoes and potato scone in the middle of the wrap. Top with the slice of Gruyere cheese and heat gently, gradually fold the edges of the wrap over to close over the melting cheese. Flip it over and continue heating for a moment. This will leave the pan remarkably clean. Now eat!


Although I am no expert on nutrition or calories, I do know that the Seakayakphoto.com First Breakfast ® has enough goodness in it to keep even a Hobbit going, at least till second breakfast*.


*Second breakfast:
Aragorn: Gentlemen, we do not stop till nightfall.
Pippin: What about breakfast?
Aragorn: You've already had it.
Pippin: We've had one, yes. What about second breakfast?
[Aragorn turns and walks off in disgust]
Merry: I don't think he knows about second breakfast, Pip.
Pippin: What about elevenses? Luncheon? Afternoon tea? Dinner? Supper? He knows about them, doesn't he?
Merry: I wouldn't count on it.

Enough crank to give flexible action!

On our first morning on Oronsay, we were awoken by the lowing of Luing cattle as they ambled along the strand, picking at tasty morsels of sea weed. In the distance we could just make out the distant hills of Donegal in Ireland.


One by one the whole herd, including the bull and the calves, scratched their heads on the bows and sterns of our kayaks. The breed guidelines have some interesting criteria. Bulls should have a "minimum 38cm scrotal circumference" and "enough crank to give flexible action". I decided not to investigate if this bull was a prime example of the breed and kept a very respectable distance! David, despite his professional interest as seakayakphoto.com's staff vet, stayed firmly in his sleeping bag.


It was not just the fine red Luing cattle that gave the beach a reddish tinge...


... it was covered in red periwinkles, which despite their lack of girth, seemed to have enjoyed considerable breeding success.

To Oronsay in the sunset.

It was hard to leave, but we now turned our backs to Islay...


...and set off to distant Oronsay, which lay to the north west. Fishing boat CN7 was lifting her pots. We had seen her earlier in Port Askaig harbour.


We were soon leaving Ruvall lighthouse and the distant Paps of Jura far behind.


We felt very small out on the open Atlantic as the darkness slowly gathered round us. To our port side, there was no landfall until distant Newfoundland. It was humbling to think that our ancestors had been making this crossing for over 7,000 years! Very slowly the hills and dunes of Oronsay and Colonsay began to take shape.


The sun was setting as we made our final approach to Oronsay. We slipped into a little bay, which seemed to be entirely composed of pink periwinkle shells. It was dark by the time we unloaded the boats and we put the tents up with the aid of head torches. The tussocky dunes were full of humps and it was nearly impossible to find a flat spot. Poor David had a very disturbed sleep as he was struggling with a hump all night.

End of the day on Islay.

From the cave system, we made our way back down to the sands of the great Bagh an Da Dhoruis on the north shore of Islay. The islands of Oronsay and Colonsay beckoned on the horizon.


The feelings of space, wildness and isolation washed over us as the sun...


...steadily dipped towards the horizon and the rocks of the cliffs began to redden.



Although the day was now slipping away, we decided to relaunch the kayaks. Oronsay, here we come!