Sunday, August 03, 2008

Shaggy dogs on Eilean Imersay, Islay


The SE coast of Islay is a maze of reefs and islands. Some of the channels dry out as the tide recedes like this one inside Eilean Mhic Mhaolmhoire.


After a short drag we were afloat again.


Another maze of channels announced our arrival at Eilean Imersay.


We enjoyed second breakfast on this idyllic beach on Eilean Imersay.



David entertained the male members of the party with a series of shaggy dog stories (he is a vet, raconteur and bon viveur). Mair hung her head in despair at how easily the male mind is amused.

13/07/2008

Friday, August 01, 2008

Losts in the mists of the Mull of Kintyre


Tony and I were not the only ones rounding the Mull of Kintyre. Quite independently, Rab, Julia and Donald from the Drumchapel and Clydebank Kayak Club hit on exactly the same itinerary and timing as us!


Although the coast of the Mull of Kintyre is almost beach less, there are large areas of sand below low water. They gave the water a lovely luminous green hue.


There are actually two caves at...


....Uamh Ropa.


The heavy rain of the night before was cascading down from the heights above the mist and plunging into the sea.


Tony attempts to plot our position in the thick mist. Alternatively, keep the Mull close to on the port bow!

26/07/2008

Thursday, July 31, 2008

Sand, sea, sun and blue sky on Islay!


On the second day of our Islay trip we awoke to find ourselves on an idyllic spread of machair above a white shell sand beach. The sun was shining the sky was blue and only a light breeze ruffled the waters of the bay. The only cloud on our horizon was the inshore waters forecast for Mull of Kintyre to Ardnamurchan Point. Winds west 3 to 4 backing SW and increasing 5 to 6 later (after 5pm).


What do you do on a beach but build sand castles? My little plastic spade doubles up as a sheep shit clearer on the camp site!


We set off to the south leaving the Sound of Islay and the mountains of Jura behind.


After rounding Ardmore Point we would turn to the SW following Islay's whisky coast! In the distance the Mull of Kintyre could just be seen on the horizon. Little did we know that we would be rounding the Mull within the fortnight!


After passing through Caolas Port na Lice we entered an enchanting area of scattered skerries called Plod Sgeirean. In the distance, the Irish hills of Antrim now drew the eye onward.

13/07/2008

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

God Knows in the mists of Innean Glen


We had left Macrihanish in thick fog at 0930am, just as the south going tidal flow started. An hour later we were paddling along a coastline of bizarre stacks and skerries whose outlines and sizes were distorted by the mists.


As we approached a maze of skerries the fog seemed to leach all colour from the seascape and smother all sounds except for the gentle dip of our paddles.


A blink of sun tempted us through through the maze.


We emerged into the isolated bay of Innean Glen, the only beach in the 23km between Macrihanish and Carskey Bay on the far side of the Mull of Kintyre.


Just above the beach a lonely sailor's grave is marked by a simple wooden cross. On the 6th of May 1917 the unidentified sailor's body was washed ashore. It was found by the local shepherd who buried him here. Over the years several crosses have marked the spot. This one was made by Neil Brown of Campbeltown in 1998. He had also made the previous one in 1981.


The inscription simply says "God Knows".

We paddled on into the fog uncertain of what lay before us.

26/07/2008

Monday, July 28, 2008

Mull of Kintyre happened this time!


This weekend saw light winds forecast across the west of Scotland. The tides were right for a 62km paddle round the Mull of Kintyre, one of the most remote headlands in the UK. We aimed to leave Macrihanish at 0930 on Saturday 26th July, just as the south going flow started. We expected to arrive at the Mull of Kintyre (14.5km distant) at 1230 when the tide race would be at its maximum. A light wind is essential for such a plan as the tide race would be a maelstrom in strong winds and there would be no turning back! Last year we turned back because the forecast light winds turned into a force 5 easterly which would have meant wind against tide round the Mull.

The Mull of Kintyre  juts out into the North Channel which separates Scotland from Ireland. The tides are so strong and unusual that when the tide is in on the east side of the Kintyre it is out on the west side! You paddle round on sloping water! Careful tidal planning is required for such a trip and it is sensible to refer to the tidal direction rather than flood or ebb. Indeed the tide we caught started as an ebb on the west side of the peninsula and ended up as a flood on the east side of the peninsula! What a fun paddle.... in light winds!


Light winds sometimes mean fog! The curious rock formation at the Mull of Kintyre is called the "Dugs Lugs" (Canine ears).


After rounding the Mull the fog began to lift so we paddled out into the race for a view back to the lighthouse. The light was established in 1788 by Thomas Smith assisted by his son in law, Robert Stevenson, the first of the Stevenson family of lighthouse engineers. It was rebuilt in 1830 and automated in 1996. The light flashes twice, white every 20 secs.

26/07/2008

Pennies from heaven in Kildalton church yard.


After setting up camp, we went for a little walk in the gentle countryside which backs the SE corner of Islay's coastline.


At the crest of a hill we came across the ancient churchyard of Kildalton.


The churchyard contains the Kildalton Cross. This is one of the finest early Christian crosses in the British Isles. It was carved in the 8th century and so is nearly 1200 years old. It is believed the sculptors came from Iona. It is remarkably well preserved for such an ancient sculpture. The nearby church dates from the 12th century.


The east side of the cross has scenes depicting the Virgin and Child with attendant angels, Cain murdering Abel, the Sacrifice of Isaac and David killing the Lion.


The west side of the cross has four carved lions.


At the foot and hidden on small ledges on the cross there is a collection of pennies, just enough for a round of Guinness!.


The church fell into disuse in the 17th century but the graveyard continued to be used until the late 19th century. In addition to medieval grave slabs there are more modern ones such as this one which is covered in rich coloured lichen. The deceased, Robert Cameron, either lived or worked at the now abandoned settlement of Proaig, which we had visited earlier in the day.

We now felt we had learned a little more about the countryside of Islay, which we were paddling round.

12/07/2008

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Landfall at Claggain Bay, Islay


Travelling down the east coast of Islay, we left Proaig Bay and distant McArthur's Head then paddled SSE to the next headland, Carraig Mhor.


On rounding Carraig Mhor the character of the Islay landscape changed dramatically. Gentle wooded slopes hung over beaches of dazzling white sand.


After we passed the next low headland, Rhuba Liath, we were paddling amongst skerries and more white sand beaches.


On reaching Claggain Bay the shadows were lengthening so we decided to stop for the evening and enjoy the view up the Sound of Jura.

12/07/2008