Over the sea to the fair isle of Islay

As we crossed the Sound of Jura, towards the Sound of Islay, a force 5 wind was blowing from the north west. The air was very clear and to the north the Paps of Jura heaved above the horizon. However, the wind meant that we would need to plan our sea kayaking adventure carefully. Initial plans to paddle against the tide and head north towards the island of Colonsay were put to one side.


Mair and Billy had met David and myself at Kennacraig, on the west coast of the Mull of Kintyre. We had promised ourselves a trip to Islay for too long, now it was a reality! We were to meet Tony on Islay at Port Askaig. He had already enjoyed a family holiday for a week on the island.


The MV Hebridean Isles docked right on time as we were putting the final bags into the kayaks.


We used trolleys to wheel them onto the car deck. The kayaks travel for £10 return on any Caledonian Macbrayne crossing. Note the strap restraining the kayaks for a windy crossing. Normally they do not bother.


Our excitement mounted as we approached the tiny Port Askaig. It lies at the foot of steep cliffs. Rather I should say lay at the foot of steep cliffs. The port is midway through a 13 million pound redevelopment that has carved a new approach and waiting area from the cliffs (destroying two of the villages few houses) and constructed a new roll on roll off jetty.

Also noticeable is the Islay Severn class lifeboat Helmut Schroder of Dunlossit II. This has been on station since 1997. On 18 December 1991, the previous Thames class boat, Helmut Schroder of Dunlossit, was involved in the dramatic of nearly 50 souls from the Russian fish factory vessel Kartli.


Port Askaig is one of Islay's two ferry terminals. The other is on the south of the island at Port Ellen. Port Askaig is also the terminal for the MV Eilean Dhiura which crosses 0.9km of the Sound of Isla to Feolin on Jura.

We had arrived on Islay!

12/07/2008

Rockpool Isel sea kayak

I spotted this lovely new Rockpool Isel (pron. eesel) in Kari-tek's Geoff Turner's back garden. It is a very low volume design based on the Alaw hull with about 2" trimmed from the seam line and an Alaw Bach deck on top.


Detail construction is up to Mike Webb's usual high standard. All fittings and bulkhead design are as in the rest of the Rockpool range. Production versions are likely to be called only Isel.


With 2" off the seam line this boat will not have much windage. Just the sort of boat I like, if I can squeeze into it!

Sea Kayaking through the gates of Hell!

The Cuma reported a force 4 to 5 SW wind on the far side of the Hirta / Soay gap.


As we went down the west side of Stac Soay, the gap between it and Stac Biorach looked like the gates of Hell!


Fortunately we did not need to pass through to Hades as a tunnel appeared leading right through to the other side of Stac Soay.

02/06/2008

Unfortunately there will now be a short intermission. The staff of seakayakphoto come are headed for the fair isle of Islay. We have heard tales of many shore side distilleries, with magical names like Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain.

We may be gone for some time.......

The approach to Soay

As arranged, Cuma made rendezvous in Glen Bay, Hirta. Murty and Murdani conferred.


Then the Cuma made off for the Hirta Soay gap as a probe!


As she returned, Soay had gathered a wreath of cloud about her upper slopes and a freshening wind was blasting through the gap.

02/06/2008

Purty sea kayaks and the great tunnel of Geodha na h-Airdhe, St Kilda

Geodha na h-Airdhe is a 140m long tunnel right through the great headland of Gob na h-Airdhe on the north coast of Hirta in the St Kilda archipelago.

Alan comes through in his Nordkapp LV. I think this boat is one of the purtiest sea kayaks around!


Fiona F and Murty come through as the MV Cuma makes an appearance behind.


The scale of this arch is difficult to describe, in truth it is a tunnel!


Yup the Nordkapp LV sure is a purty boat. Pity the same can not be said of all those who paddle one! Photo Jennifer Wilcox.


With Boreray as a backdrop to the NE, Lena and Jennifer paddle across the great sweep of Glen Bay where we had arranged to rendezvous with the Cuma.

The Cuma's purpose will be revealed tomorrow...

02/06/2008

Sea Kayaking St Kilda: Na Cleitean Stac

Leaving Bradastac, we passed under further huge cliffs below Glacan Mor. We saw another stack ahead, Na Cleitean stac, and in the distance the headland of Gob na h-Airde with a cloud capped Soay behind.


Na Cleitean stac with kayakers behind. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.


As we approached the headland of Gob na h-Airde we realized we would not be paddling round it, there was a tunnel right through it!


Several people have emailed about my source of the names of the geological features that are not on the OS 1:50,000 map. I have used the Mathieson map from 1928.

Sea Kayaking St Kilda: the north face of Conachair and Bradastac

As we made our way anticlockwise round the north coast of Hirta we were completely overawed by the scale and wildness of this place.

Bradastac lies at the foot of the highest sea cliffs in Britain. Anywhere else it would be a giant amongst stacks. Here it was dwarfed by Conachair just as we were dwarfed by it.


We made our way round Bradastac as the swell slowly rose then fell round its red rocks.


Fiona F with Bradastac and Mina Stac in the distance.


Bradastac, with Fiona F, Alan and Clark below the stunning cliffs of Conachair, the highest mountain on Hirta.

02/06/2008

Sea Kayaking St Kilda: the great cave of Geo nan Plaidean

The north coast of Hirta in the St Kilda archipelago is a wild place. Much of it falls sheer into the sea from the heights above and forms the greatest and highest wall of sea cliffs in the British Isles.

After passing Mina Stac we came across the great cave of Geo nan Plaidean. The wall above it rises almost to the summit of Conachair, 430m.


Tony watches Fiona F and Alan entering the cave.


Clark leaves the cave with Mina Stac behind and Stac an Armin, Stac Lee and Boreray on the horizon.

02/06/2008

Sea Kayaking the NE coast of Hirta in St Kilda.

Looking back to the wreck of the Spinningdale and the shelter of Village Bay from the Point of Coll.


As we approached Rubha an Uisge, the most easterly point of Hirta, Stac Lee, Stac an Armin and Boreray came into sight.


Tony in the darkness of Geo nan Sgarbh.


Jennifer in the gap behind Sgeir nan Sgarbh.


Alan under the dark cliffs of Stac a' Langa. Mina Stac is the point on the extreme right. This photo was taken with a 17mm lens to try and get as much of the cliff in as possible. At up to 426m, or 1400 feet, these cliffs are the highest in the British Isles.


Tony and Fiona F coming through the gap behind Mina Stac. The wind gusted strongly through the gaps and the swells were amplified.


Alan with Mina Stac behind and Stac an Armin, Stac Lee and Boreray in the distance.


Our route round Hirta.

Better Days: the wreck of the Spinningdale

As we left the Cuma, on the start of our great St Kilda adventure, we were so excited. As we left Dun behind us and headed across Village Bay the wind dropped to nothing .


Our first destination was not to be some geological wonder but a rather poorly parked fishing boat, the FV Spinningdale.


Over the night of 31/1/08 and 1/2/08 she sought shelter in Village Bay in a NW gale. The sea conditions meant she could not anchor and she motored slowly against the wind trying to maintain her position throughout the night. Unfortunately vicious down draughts from the mountains above slewed her onto the rocks at the edge of Village Bay. The conditions were so violent that the crew could not launch the life rafts and she put out a Mayday.

At first the Stornoway Coastguard S92 helicopter and the Stornoway lifeboat were both launched. Remarkably, the helicopter managed to winch all 14 crew to safety and the lifeboat turned back.

The picture of the Spinningdale in the shore break is by an MCA coastguard photographer and given to me by Murdy Campbell, cox of the Stornoway lifeboat.


It was humbling to paddle round the sad remains of the Spinningdale and realize that we were now in some of the wildest and remote waters in the UK.

02/06/2008

Sea kayaks are go on Hirta Island!

By now it was nearly 4pm on Monday. Unfortunately the promised light winds for Tuesday were lost in the gloom of the most recent forecast: force 5 southerly this evening increasing force 6 southerly by morning. It was make or break time, on St Kilda calm conditions never last long. Murdy considered the options then came the call. "Launch the boats!" Raiding Vikings could hardly have got on the water so quickly! Murdy's plan was to paddle round Hirta anticlockwise. This would mean we should arrive in the Hirta Soay gap about slack water. The only problem might be an increasing southerly shrieking through the gap. Murdy arranged for Cuma to rendezvous with us at the gap. Cuma would then go through as a probe!


The tour boats were all moored in a neat line across Village Bay, very shipshape! But wait....


...that red boat doesn't look very neatly parked!

02/06/2008

Arrival in Village Bay, St Kilda

Excitement was palpable aboard the Cuma as she steamed into Village Bay, on Hirta the main island of the St Kilda archipelago. We crowded the foredeck to get a better look!


We were not the only tourist boat to arrive ,there were 4 others of various sizes from the 2000 ton Russian Aleksey Maryshev to the small red boat above. With a force 6 southerly forecast for the following day all the others left and the Cuma was the only vessel to stay the night.


The village street was clearly visible behind the shore. The houses which have recently been re-roofed were supposed to be an improvement on the old black houses whose stones can still be seen between the more modern houses. The black houses had thicker walls with round corners and with their thatched roofs were better insulated and less noisy in the incessant winds than the modern square built houses with tin roofs. Wild Soay sheep can be seen grazing round the cottages.


All across the island these stone built cleits served as stores for dried birds and ropes.

We had arrived on one of the few light wind days of the year but it would be windy tomorrow....

02/06/2008