Friday, June 27, 2008

Sunset over the Monach Islands


As we paddled round the remote Monach Islands, which lie to the West of the outer Hebrides, the mid summer sun began its journey to set in the far north west.


As Cuma swung gently at her anchor, we watched the sunset in appreciative silence. Like the mythical Avalon, St Kilda lay far beyond the western horizon, where the sun met the sea in blaze of crimson fire. We could only hope that the red sky at night bade well, for a settled spell of weather, to reach those long abandoned isles.

01/06/2008

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Mike Thomson


My friend Mike Thomson of Scottish Paddler Supplies has died.

He became unwell while driving back to Scotland with a load of new sea kayaks. I can hardly believe what I am writing, as Mike was a larger than life character who was so full of life and seemed such a permanent part of Scottish paddling life. Who can forget his deep sonorous voice "Hello, this is Scottish Paddler Supplies" when he picked up the phone? His voice sounded like a wonderful deep and liquid sound from the back of some distant sea cave.

When I say he was my friend, I am not claiming any exclusivity, he was a warm hearted and open man who made friends with all his customers. He was most certainly not a "box shifter". He liked to get to know his customers' needs before he would sell anything. He would also lend gear to make sure it was what you really wanted. Afterwards, his customer support, if there was a problem with gear, was quite exceptional in my experience of any retail field.

He also took particular care with newcomers to sea kayaking. He would spend a great deal of time giving advice about any aspect of sea kayaking. I was a complete newcomer when I first contacted Mike and I have no doubt that his sound advice helped me safely on my way. As a result of his approachfullness, he built up a loyal band of customers not just in Scotland but in many other countries across the world.

As a retailer, he was a familiar sight with demo boats and stands at symposia such as the Skye Sea Kayaking Symposium and also shows such as the Perth Paddle Show. Of course Mike was not just a retailer, he also designed and manufactured sea kayaking accessories such as J bars for roof racks and kayak trolleys. These are made of such high quality materials that no doubt they will be dug up and puzzled over by future archaeologists! I tested a group of trolleys on the portage over the rough track from Tarbert on Jura for Ocean Paddler magazine. Mike was so pleased when only his trolley made it over unscathed. In fact, it needed to return to the summit to rescue another boat whose trolley had completely broken! I can still remember Mike's hearty chuckle as he read the article. Mike was always looking for ways to improve his designs and he asked if I had any suggestions for the trolley. He was working on a modification when we last spoke, just before he died.


Mike walks over a Coll beach towards an early Quest prototype. Photo by Ronnie Weir.

He was also involved in tests of two P&H prototypes called project X (later to resurface as the Bahiya) and project Y, one of which would be chosen as their new expedition boat. He particularly liked project Y and said it was the one for his customers. He took delivery of one of the first production models which P&H called the the "Cappela Explorer".


Mike named this individual boat "Sea Quest" but told P&H that the name "Capella Explorer" was just confusing customers because of the existing "Capella" in the range. He suggested they should change the name. The y did and the "Quest" was born! Mike's enthusiasm for this boat did much to ensure the success of the Quest and there can hardly be a Scottish beach that has not been graced by several.

He had a great sense of humour and I can still remember his deep HO HO HOs when we shared a joke. One such joke was Brace-a-Float and remarkably he was still getting enquiries about these as recently as last month!

He started his own paddling career with Fife Sea Kayak Club and over the years he had written articles about their exploits for many magazines. Recently he had written several humorous and lively articles about his trips for Ocean Paddler magazine. He hadn't taken photographs at the time but I had followed in his wake and was honoured when he asked if I could supply some photos to go with his articles.

He was also a volunteer trip organiser for the Scottish Canoe Association and in March this year had organised one of the first ever kayaking trips on Loch Katrine after it had been opened to public access for the first time.

Mike loved all aspects of the outdoors but particularly the sea (he was also a sailor). He passed his sense of respect for the sea and of looking after the countryside to all those whom he came across. He played a great role in the expansion of sea kayaking in Scotland but he was always concerned that people should start off feeling respect for the outdoors. He felt that the environment would not be harmed by growing numbers if participants shared this respect. He was not an evangelist though, he simply showed newcomers his own obvious enjoyment of the outdoors.

The world is a better place because of people like Mike Thomson and it is poorer with his passing. However, Mike helped so many people on the way to enjoying their sea kayaking adventures that his joy of life and the outdoors will live on through them for many years to come. I count myself lucky for being one who knew him.

My condolences to all those who have lost with his passing, especially his family and close friends.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

The Odarum rock and the wreck of the Vanstabel.


Making our way round the north end of Siolaigh in the Monach Islands, we decided to cut inside the gap between the island and the Odarum rock.


This saved a detour of over 1.5km around the reefs that extend to the NE.


Once we landed we were able to watch the swells marching through the gap which we had just traversed. This small flock of black face sheep kept close together while they circled us inquisitively.


On the shore, high above high water we noticed the rusting remains of an iron ship. She was the Vanstabel a French ship registered in Dunkirk. In 1903 she was driven onto the Odarum rock where she broke up with the loss of all her crew of 21 souls.


As we walked towards the lighthouse we came across more wreckage from the Vanstabel.


It was far from the shore and high above sea level. It is impossible to imagine the ferocity with which that Atlantic storm had dashed her asunder and thrown the pieces so far inland.


Some of her internal timbers had survived for 105 years on the Monachs.


Delicate thrift contrasted with her rusting plates and rivets. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.

01/06/2008

Saturday, June 21, 2008

The Monach Lighthouse and 60 years' of pigeon shit!


Paddling round the SW coast of Siolaigh in the Monach Islands we became aware that there are actually two lighthouses.


The original light was established in 1864 after it had been built by David and Thomas Stevenson. It is a 41m red brick tower but it was switched off in WW2 and abandoned in 1948.


It was replaced by a fully automatic minor light in 1997.


It is powered by solar cells.


We found a party of NLB workmen restoring the Stevenson tower. They lived on the Orkney Islands but were spending the summer here. The old light is shortly to be reestablished as oil tankers from the North Sea are going to be rerouted from the Minch on the east side of the Outer Hebrides to pass by their west coast. Three months of hard labour were required to shovel 60 years of pigeon shit from the tower's interior. The shit bags are piled up outside the lighthouse walls.


We were lucky enough to be escorted to the top of the tower by one of the Orcadians. This is the view to the NW and we were excited to see the tops of the islands of the St Kilda archipelago 64 km distant


The view to the SE extends over the Caolas Siolaigh to Cean Iar and the distant hills of North Uist and South Uist. On the 15th November 1936 two lighthouse keepers were drowned rowing back across the Caolas from the post office in the village.


The view to the NE extends from the distant hills of Harris to the hills of North Uist.


We were very grateful to our Orcadian friend for the privilege of seeing the view from the tower. It was his 22 ascent of the tower that day! Under the green sheeting, the new light and lens were already rotating.

This post should have appeared a few years ago but for some reason I saved it as a draft and forgot! 01/06/2008

Friday, June 20, 2008

The Monach Islands


The Monach Islands are little more than low dunes that are swept over by Atlantic storms. In the distance are the mountains of South Uist.


The whole area is fringed with reefs but Siolaigh is the most western of the more substantial isles. It is dominated by a large brick built lighthouse that has been disused since the 1940s.


Cuma anchored in the lagoon on the south side of Shibhinis and Ceann Ear.


We made our way along the south side of the islands.


We crossed Caolas Siolaigh still sheltered by offshore reefs but on rounding Siolaigh we were exposed to the full strength of the Atlantic swells.


Siolaigh was covered with a carpet of thrift. On the horizon we could just see the peaks of the St Kilda archipelago.

01/06/2008

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

These are the voyages of the MV Cuma, day 2, sausage logistics.


On day two of the St Kilda trip there were force 6 to 7 E winds forecast. This would make it impossible to anchor securely in Village Bay, Hirta, which is exposed to the E. That morning a decision was taken to motor 68km to the Monach Isles (off North Uist) where a sheltered anchorage could be found and from where it was only 65 km to the NW and St Kilda!


However, the sharp eyed will have noticed a detour which was made to the west coast of Harris. The crew of the Cuma are used to supplying needy passengers with sausages. However, Murdani and his crew were completely unprepared for the gannet like breakfast demands of hungry sea kayakers. I have to confess, even I was rather surprised at the extent of the breakfast order that went in the evening before. Murdani was however, completely nonplussed. Early in the morning he phoned his son in law who proceeded to make a 262 km round trip from Uig to Stornoway then through the fastnesses between Lewis to the coast of Harris and back. The purpose of this incredible journey was to resupply the sausage needs of Cuma's hungry sea kayakers.

As Clark and Fiona F enjoyed the early morning sunshine, Murdani nudged the Cuma close inshore and launched the RIB to make a sausage rendezvous.


The sausage supply situation was resolved before we, the guests, even knew what was happening. Here, Nancy, Fiona B, Lena, Andy and Murty sit digesting their multiple breakfast sausages, somewhat unaware of the complexities of the logistics of Stornoway sausage resupply. So hospitable were our hosts, it would be unseemly of them to mention the true purpose of the visit to Harris. They just hoped we had enjoyed our view of Harris's wonderful beaches.

I think it would be fair to say that day two had started with a banger (or several)!

01/06/2008

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Afloat on Hebridean seas


On our first morning we awoke to find that Cuma was anchored in 6 fathoms of water. The seas round Taransay are so clear that we could see right to the bottom. There had been little wind overnight and the Cuma's chain lay criss-crossed over itself on the sea bed following the path which she had drifted overnight.


Looking over the side, the water was full of slowly pulsating moon jellyfish.

1/06/2008