Saturday, June 21, 2008

The Monach Lighthouse and 60 years' of pigeon shit!


Paddling round the SW coast of Siolaigh in the Monach Islands we became aware that there are actually two lighthouses.


The original light was established in 1864 after it had been built by David and Thomas Stevenson. It is a 41m red brick tower but it was switched off in WW2 and abandoned in 1948.


It was replaced by a fully automatic minor light in 1997.


It is powered by solar cells.


We found a party of NLB workmen restoring the Stevenson tower. They lived on the Orkney Islands but were spending the summer here. The old light is shortly to be reestablished as oil tankers from the North Sea are going to be rerouted from the Minch on the east side of the Outer Hebrides to pass by their west coast. Three months of hard labour were required to shovel 60 years of pigeon shit from the tower's interior. The shit bags are piled up outside the lighthouse walls.


We were lucky enough to be escorted to the top of the tower by one of the Orcadians. This is the view to the NW and we were excited to see the tops of the islands of the St Kilda archipelago 64 km distant


The view to the SE extends over the Caolas Siolaigh to Cean Iar and the distant hills of North Uist and South Uist. On the 15th November 1936 two lighthouse keepers were drowned rowing back across the Caolas from the post office in the village.


The view to the NE extends from the distant hills of Harris to the hills of North Uist.


We were very grateful to our Orcadian friend for the privilege of seeing the view from the tower. It was his 22 ascent of the tower that day! Under the green sheeting, the new light and lens were already rotating.

This post should have appeared a few years ago but for some reason I saved it as a draft and forgot! 01/06/2008

Friday, June 20, 2008

The Monach Islands


The Monach Islands are little more than low dunes that are swept over by Atlantic storms. In the distance are the mountains of South Uist.


The whole area is fringed with reefs but Siolaigh is the most western of the more substantial isles. It is dominated by a large brick built lighthouse that has been disused since the 1940s.


Cuma anchored in the lagoon on the south side of Shibhinis and Ceann Ear.


We made our way along the south side of the islands.


We crossed Caolas Siolaigh still sheltered by offshore reefs but on rounding Siolaigh we were exposed to the full strength of the Atlantic swells.


Siolaigh was covered with a carpet of thrift. On the horizon we could just see the peaks of the St Kilda archipelago.

01/06/2008

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

These are the voyages of the MV Cuma, day 2, sausage logistics.


On day two of the St Kilda trip there were force 6 to 7 E winds forecast. This would make it impossible to anchor securely in Village Bay, Hirta, which is exposed to the E. That morning a decision was taken to motor 68km to the Monach Isles (off North Uist) where a sheltered anchorage could be found and from where it was only 65 km to the NW and St Kilda!


However, the sharp eyed will have noticed a detour which was made to the west coast of Harris. The crew of the Cuma are used to supplying needy passengers with sausages. However, Murdani and his crew were completely unprepared for the gannet like breakfast demands of hungry sea kayakers. I have to confess, even I was rather surprised at the extent of the breakfast order that went in the evening before. Murdani was however, completely nonplussed. Early in the morning he phoned his son in law who proceeded to make a 262 km round trip from Uig to Stornoway then through the fastnesses between Lewis to the coast of Harris and back. The purpose of this incredible journey was to resupply the sausage needs of Cuma's hungry sea kayakers.

As Clark and Fiona F enjoyed the early morning sunshine, Murdani nudged the Cuma close inshore and launched the RIB to make a sausage rendezvous.


The sausage supply situation was resolved before we, the guests, even knew what was happening. Here, Nancy, Fiona B, Lena, Andy and Murty sit digesting their multiple breakfast sausages, somewhat unaware of the complexities of the logistics of Stornoway sausage resupply. So hospitable were our hosts, it would be unseemly of them to mention the true purpose of the visit to Harris. They just hoped we had enjoyed our view of Harris's wonderful beaches.

I think it would be fair to say that day two had started with a banger (or several)!

01/06/2008

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Afloat on Hebridean seas


On our first morning we awoke to find that Cuma was anchored in 6 fathoms of water. The seas round Taransay are so clear that we could see right to the bottom. There had been little wind overnight and the Cuma's chain lay criss-crossed over itself on the sea bed following the path which she had drifted overnight.


Looking over the side, the water was full of slowly pulsating moon jellyfish.

1/06/2008

Monday, June 16, 2008

Sunset surfing on the Corran Ra spit, Taransay.


Clark and Douglas at the Corran Ra wave. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.

Like many of the smaller Western Hebridean Isles such as Pabbay, the Atlantic swell wraps round both sides of the island of Taransay. Where the swells meet a sand bar is created. You can surf in on a wave then meet another wave coming in the opposite direction. Where they meet... Kapowwww! There was considerable testing of rolls, rescues and dry suits! Andy broke his paddle on a vigourous stern rudder. He made several vigourous attempts at bracing with half a paddle but ultimately enjoyed a taste of salt water. Fortunately he carried splits.


Tony on Corran Ra, Taransay


We surfed till long after sunset....


..... and returned to MV Cuma at 11pm.


Our first day's paddle had covered only 11km at Taransay. However, Tony, Jennifer and I had already covered 11km that morning in Loch Roag.

31/05/2008

Sunday, June 15, 2008

A Taransay Saturday sashay.


After an excellent dinner,we embarked from the Cuma at 8 pm using her RIB as a launching platform. Photo Jennifer Wilcox.


Nancy, Clark, Fiona B, John, Murty, Alan and Andy enjoying the long summer evening light on the south coast of Taransay.


This beach on Taransay is one of my favourite viewpoints.


The mixture of white shell sand, dark grey rocks and turquoise waters backed by distant mountains of Harris makes a fine view regardless of the weather conditions.


The shifting sand dunes of Taransay reveal all sorts of ancient buildings.

31/05/2008

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Loch Roag to Taransay by MV Cuma


The MV Cuma left her berth at Miavaig on Loch Roag at 2pm on Saturday 31st May. She then motored south along the west coast of Lewis and Harris and arrived at Taransay at 6pm.


While the others are still sorting gear, Tony admires the shell sand beach of Riof in Loch Roag.


Leaving Loch Roag we rounded Gallan Head with its outlier Gallan Beag.


Further south we passed Eilean Molach which lies off the wild Mangurstadh coast which is backed by Mealaisbhal (574m).


Approaching the entrance to Loch Resort and the Kyles of Scarp, Murty begins to wonder how he will manage to get this lot of hopefuls round St Kilda!


Arriving at Taransay, Murdani drops anchor while being watched by a fascinated group of onlookers including Andy, Jennifer, Tony and Fiona F.

31/05/2008

Friday, June 13, 2008

The start of the St Kilda cruise on MV Cuma.


We camped overnight on the islands. The following morning we took a circuitous route involving more arches and caves along the coastline of Loch Roag.


We returned to Bhaltos where we loaded the kayaks on the car for the short drive to Miavaig.


At Miavaig we joined our fellow paddlers and boarded the MV Cuma.

31/05/2008

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Red rock at sunset


As the sun sank to the west of Loch Roag on the Isle of Lewis the grey rocks of Lewisian gneisss began to glow red.


Paddling under these great cliffs we basked in the radiated heat that had built up during the day.


The sun finally set on the western horizon, below which our destination, St Kilda, still glowed in the last of the day.

30/05/2008

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Arrival at Loch Roag


The MV Cuma was due to leave for St Kilda on the afternoon of Saturday 31st May from Miavaig in Loch Roag on the west coast of Lewis. We were so excited that we did not want to miss the boat so we arrived on the Friday evening. We set off from Bhaltos to paddle round the many islands in the loch and find a camp site.


We paddled late into the summer night with an ever mounting sense of anticipation.

30/05/2008

Monday, June 09, 2008

The crew of the good ship MV Cuma


Murdani Macdonald is the skipper of the MV Cuma, the flagship of Island Cruising. Murdani has a quiet Hebridean manner but has a razor sharp wit. Not being quite quick enough on the uptake, I often found myself chuckling about 10 minutes after one of Murdani's understated gems.


Murdani has spent his life fishing and then cruising in the seas of the Hebrides. Few can know these waters better.


Everything about the Cuma is spick and span and well maintained, she is carefully repainted each season. The Queen herself would feel quite at home aboard the Cuma.


Of course every skipper has a crew and Murdani has the assistance of his good wife Cathie who is ship's cook, surgeon and dentist. (Murdani also practices dentistry but when you have seen the size of his drill, you will be well advised to seek out Cathie instead.) Cathie is ably assisted by cabin girl Rhoda who had to cope with some quite ridiculous orders for breakfast.

Despite a proliferation of scenic photos of our trip I felt it essential to start by acknowledging those who helped us achieve our goal of visiting and paddling round St Kilda.

Thank you to the crew of the Cuma!

06/06/2008

Sunday, June 08, 2008

Murty Campbell


Murty Campbell is one of the great sea kayaking pioneers. Over a decade ago he completed unsupported crossings to isolated Hebridean outliers such as St Kilda, Sula Sgeir and North Rona. Murty has a quiet unassuming manner which belies his experience of the sea, first of all in the Merchant Navy then as cox of the Stornoway lifeboat and as a sea kayaker.


Murty leads a group through the great tunnel of Geodha na h-Airde on the north coast of Hirta. St Kilda lies 67km (42 miles) off the west coast of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides.

His prescence on the water gives an air of quiet confidence which helps less experienced sea kayakers push their own previous boundaries. The fact that a party of twelve sea kayakers (of mixed ability) paddled right round Hirta in the St Kilda archipelago was entirely due to his leadership.

02/06/2008