Ocean Paddler #8 "Myths and tides of the Mull"

The Mull of Galloway.

Unfortunately there was not space in Ocean Paddler for the fact box to accompany the article: "Myths and Tides of the Mull" part one of a Rhinns of Galloway Trilogy. I will make sure there is room for the fact box in one of the remaining two articles. In the meantime, here is some information to help those planning a trip to this fantastic location.

The Mull of Galloway Essential Information.

Distance: 27km day trip.

Launch site: Drummore: NX141363. There is no toilet at the car park so stop at Ardwell NX109453 en route.

Landing site: Port Logan NX494094.

Getting there: From Glasgow, head south for Stranraer on the M77, then the A77. through Stranraer. Leave A77 on A716 for Ardwell then B7065 to leave shuttle car at Port Logan. 100 miles allow 2hours 30mins. Then take B7065/B7041 to Drummore 4.5 miles allow 15 minutes. If coming from the south or the east, head for Dumfries then west for Stranraer on the A75. Just before Stranraer, take the B0784 then A716 for Ardwell then B7065 for Port Logan. Dumfries to Port Logan is 60 miles allow 2 hrs.

Accommodation: For Hotel, B&B and self-catering accommodation: www.visitscotland.com. New England Bay Caravan Club Site NX120424, tel 01776 860 275, has beach access for kayaks.

Local weather forecast: BBC Radio Scotland (94 to 95 FM, 810 MW) Outdoors conditions forecasts are broadcast at 19.12 Monday-Friday, 06.58 and 18.58 on Saturday and 06.58 and 19.58 on Sunday.

Tidal constant: Mull of Galloway +0035 HW Dover; Drummore: +0045 HW Dover.

Tidal streams: Tidal stream information here that differs from the pilots is from personal observation and discussion with local fishermen. The pilots show that well south of the Mull of Galloway the E going stream (flood) begins at -0545 Dover and the W going stream (ebb) begins at +0020 Dover but close inshore, where kayakers will be, the east going stream begins about +0530 HW Dover and the W going stream about -0130 HW Dover. Spring rates exceed 9km/hr. From Port Kemmin to the Mull there is an E going eddy close inshore during the W going ebb, from about +0120 HW Dover. The interface with the main west going stream can be very disturbed.
To the west of the Rhinns of Galloway and close to shore, the S going stream (flood) begins +0425 Dover, the N going stream (ebb) begins -0135 HW Dover. There are overfalls at frequent places and after half tide (on both flood and ebb) counter eddies form close inshore. Spring rates at headlands exceed 12km/hr.

Tides on the day (24/03/2007): Our trip was midway between springs and neaps and we arrived off Lagvag, the east point of the Mull, at -0145 Dover. Note that Cooper and Reid suggest arriving slightly earlier than HW Liverpool (about HW Dover) if you do this, you will not round the Mull at slack water and you will face stronger eddies on the north part of the trip.

Warnings: This can be a serious trip if there is any wind against tide; here is a selection of descriptions from the pilots: one of the most dangerous points on the British coastline; heavy and violent race; the race at the Mull of Galloway is violent; passage can be hazardous on an outgoing tide in SW winds above force 4 and should not be attempted; very heavy seas off the Mull. Check tidal information with original sources and take account of conditions on the day.

Danger Area: Luce Bay is an active bombing range. If you keep inside the yellow buoys you should be well clear but if in doubt phone the range on 01776 888741.

Maps: OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 82; Imray Chart 1:150,000 sheet C62

Books: West Coast of Scotland Pilot, UK Hydrographic Office
West Coast of England and Wales Pilot, UK Hydrographic Office
The Yachtsman’s Pilot Clyde to Colonsay, Martin Lawrence
Firth of Clyde inc. North Channel, Solway Firth & Isle of Man, Clyde Cruising Club
Blazing Paddles, Brian Wilson
Scottish Sea Kayaking, Cooper and Reid

Useful website:
http://seakayakphoto.blogspot.com/search/label/Mull%20of%20Galloway

24/03/2007

Rockhopping down the Rhinns.

We set off from High Ardwell Bay on the wild west coast of the Rhinns of Galloway.


What followed is some of the best sea kayaking rockhopping you will get anywhere.


Round each headland there were yet more rocky channels and small stacks.


As we approached the Mull of Logan the flood tide began to build.


It ran through the channels like a river.


This magnificent arch is just SE of the Mull of Logan, it is not even marked on the map!


For the second time in a week, we bypassed a perfectly good sea kayaking pub (at Port Logan). Instead, we rounded Cairneywellan Head on our way to our first stop at Slouchnamorroch Bay.

17/02/2008

Winter sunset, playing in the Mull of Galloway race.

Today was just another day here at seakayakphoto.com. Can you imagine the hardship watching the winter sun set while playing in the tide race off the Mull of Galloway?


Earlier we had paddled the remote and seldom visited west coast of the Rhinns of Galloway. I had been so inspired by an article on paddling the Mull of Galloway, which is in the newly published Ocean Paddler issue 8, that Tony and I just went out and did it!


27km on a short winter day and we did not start paddling till 1130 am.

Just about as close to perfection as it gets!

17/02/2008

A sailor's grave high above the Sound of Jura.

Leaving the islands of the Dorus Mor, we allowed the tides to carry us down and across the Sound of Jura. The lonely lighthouse of Ruadh Sgeir broke the southern horizon.


We were bound for the wooded coast of Knapdale but a high pressure haze hid the coastal features.


We passed below Ardnoe Point. A sailor's grave lies in the woods high above the point, overlooking the constantly moving tides. His name was John Black and he died from cholera on his schooner in 1832. My grandfather's name was John Black. The family were fishermen and sailors and came from this part of Argyll. I wonder if I am related to this sailor?


After paying our respects, Duntrune Castle announced our arrival at Loch Crinan.

12/02/2008

The lost chapel of the islands at the edge of the Dorus Mor.

A lonely islet to the SW of Eilean na Cille.

On passing through the Dorus Mor (Great Door) tide race we paddled down the SE side of Garbh Reisa (the rough one in the tide race) and slipped NW against the tide, which was pouring through the gap between it and Eilean na Cille (Chapel Island).


We landed on a reef to the NW of Eilean na Cille and enjoyed first luncheon in the splendid isolation of these rocky isles that are cut off from the world by the powerful tides of the Sound of Jura. Of the eponymous chapel, there was now not a trace. Even its heyday, I doubt if it would have been "standing room only" for Sunday worship.


As the ebb streamed away to the south, the weak winter sun reached its zenith but after months of rain, at least we could see it!

We left these islands on the last of the ebb. Their past is now remembered only in a name.

12/02/2008

The hand-less piper of Duntrune Castle.

Loch Crinan is guarded on its north shore by the austere greyness of the tower of Duntrune Castle. It dates from the 12th century and was a Campbell stronghold for many centuries but has been owned by the Malcolm family since 1792. It is reputed to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited buildings in Scotland and as such it is unfortunately not open to the public.

It is haunted by the ghost of a hand-less piper. He was a MacDonald who was captured in the early 1600’s. His life was spared, as he was known as a fine piper, but he was imprisoned with his pipes in a small room at the top of the tower. One day, from his high vantage point he saw his chief's (Coll MacDonald) galley approaching a Campbell ambush. He played a lament "Cholla mo Run, Seachain a Dun" or “My beloved Coll, avoid the castle”. The Campbells were so incensed by his warning that they cut his hands off so he would never play again.

Of course, there are often two sides to stories involving the MacDonalds and the Campbells. Coll had sent the piper as a spy into the Campbell Castle.

12/02/2008

Set the controls for the heart of the sun.

We launched from the old jetty on the NW side of the Craignish peninsula. The sun was just rising above the hills. We paddled north round Eilean Ona then ferried across the south going tide to Reisa Mhic Phadean.


Paddling down the Sound of Jura with the Craignish peninsula leading down to the Dorus Mor tide race between it and the island of Garbh Reisa.


Looking west through the Corryvreckan.


Entering the Dorus Mor.

12/02/2008