Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Little Colonsay


Loch na Keal and Ulva from Little Colonsay.

After leaving the succour of Cragaig cottage, we were a sorry bunch. Tony’s ankle was the size of a melon and Mike had not been paddling since February as he had been bitten on the hand by a venomous snake in South Africa. My arthritis was bothering me and David’s back was playing up. The Treshnish isles had been our intended destination but Mike’s forearm was suffering badly after the slog up Loch Tuath to Ulva Ferry the day before. He decided to have a short day and head for a camp on Inch Kenneth while we decided to make do with a little tour of Loch na Keal, visiting Staffa and the Wilderness instead...



Our fiirst stop was Little Colonsay.



There is a large 3 storey house on this island. In the 1930’s, the last resident moved to Cragaig cottage (which we had just left). He was driven out, after 40 years on the island, by a plague of rats. After our recent encounter with the Giant Bothy Rat of Ratatallain, Tony and I have a clear policy when it comes to rodents. We did not land.

We paddled on to Staffa.

Monday, August 06, 2007

Dog eat dog


The seas off Ulva were teeming with fish. Tony caught this mackerel which was still in the process of swallowing a sand eel in a feeding frenzy. We had them filleted and fried only a few minutes after they were caught. Simply delicious.

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Cragaig Cottage, Ulva


When we left the welcoming warmth of the Boathouse into the chill of a thundery Scottish evening, we were not wholly without an accommodation plan. Tony had previously fallen while carrying a loaded kayak down a steep slippery shore and his paddling clothes were soaked. We had noticed the locked cottage at Cragaig and asked the ferry man about it. He phoned the estate manager, Mr Jamie Howard, and it was ours for the night for £30.


We dried out in the warmth of a coal fire. The back burner heated water for a hot shower and there was a working WC! There was also gas for the oven and stove. What a fabulous find Cragaig was on such a wet day!

(We have never pretended to be truly hardened sea kayakers, able to survive in the open with only a tartan plaid of rough wool and a bag of oats.)


To make things even more perfect, as we dried out, so did the weather and there was a late blink of sun on the Wilderness coast.

The township of Cragaig on the southern shore of Ulva had flourished in the 19th century until the kelp harvesting industry collapsed and the potato famine struck. Its last resident was a lobster fisherman who moved here in the 1930’s after having lived for 40 years on nearby Little Colonsay. Behind the cottage, two standing stones, dating from 1500 BC, are testament to this now deserted valley having a long history of habitation. A little further away, a human infant’s bones, dating from prior to 5500BC, were discovered in L ivingstone’s cave.

To book the cottage or to wild camp on Ulva contact Estate Manager Mr Jamie Howard Tel: 01688 500264.

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Ulva lobster and prawn boat.


The Sound of Ulva nestles between Mull and Ulva and joins Loch na Keal in the south to Loch Tuath in the north. It is a sheltered anchorage for both pleasure and work boats. Some work boats ferry tourists to the Treshnish Isles and Staffa and others reap the local sea food which was a highlight of our visit to the Boathouse. I just loved the curve of this boats stem as it lay at anchor below the bold outline of Ben More.

Friday, August 03, 2007

The Boathouse, Ulva

It has to be said that an increasing number of complaints have been arriving here at seakayakphoto.com headquarters. A general theme is succinctly expressed by “Thirsty Paddler” who writes “Wot’s happened to sea kayaking pubs?” Well seakayakphoto.com reviews are renowned for their in depth analysis. Not for us, spotting a pub from the cockpit and writing a “review” from afar. No! All our sea kayaking pubs reviews depend on thirsty paddlers being served while dripping water and leaving a trail of sandy footprints from whence they came. This attention to detail takes time and our staff are not to be hurried in their task. Indeed our reviewers are renowned for their dedication to duty, even under the most adverse of conditions.

On our recent tour of the west coast of Mull we awoke on the isle of Ulva with the express intention of heading out to the Treshnish Isles, a mere 11 km to our west. However, on reaching the eastern tip of Gometra, a 4/5 easterly wind with the forecast of a 5/6 easterly in the morn convinced us that a change of direction was required. We decided to complete a circumnavigation of Ulva.


Tony doing some serious preparation for a seakayaking pubs review.


Quite unexpectedly we came across a pub. The Boathouse has a convenient beach which leads up to the very door of the establishment.


Initially we were disappointed that there were no draught ales on sale as casks of ale are too difficult to deliver to the island. (There is no vehicular access, only a ferry for foot passenger plies the waters of the Sound of Ulva.) We were cheered however, to find ourselves seated beside the chilled drinks cabinet, which contained a fine selection of our favoured libations in both bottles and cans. (Note the spreading puddle on the floor!)


The Boathouse also serves an excellent selection of cold and hot soft drinks for those of more delicate constitution and balance. They also have a fine purvey of home baking including scones and carrot cake. What really took our fancy was the range of seafood, including oysters, scallops and Norwegian Prawns (langoustines). On enquiring if food was still available, (it was just before closing time at 5pm, the last ferry runs at 5 which explains the early closing) we were told it had been busy because of the rain and that the sea food was now finished. Sensing our disappointment, the girl said she could manage some prawns if we were willing to wait a little. I asked “how long?”, fully expecting that the ping of a microwave at the end of its defrost cycle would announce the crustaceans’ arrival. The girl pointed to the prawn boat edging into the jetty outside.

Well these prawns were simply superb they were served with home grown watercress, a delicate garlic butter and freshly baked brown bread. The meal was quite outstanding and deserved to be quaffed down with several more cans of Guinness (it would be imprudent to say how many). The Boathouse at Ulva is a marvellous institution that goes out of its way to welcome thirsty and hungry sea kayakers. It is highly recommended.


Well after closing time, we wended our way back to the boats and set off again into the rain and wind. Under the angry skies of a Scottish summer evening we were in search of dry lodging for the night…

Health warning.
Reviewing sea kayaking pubs is an acknowledged risk activity. Participants should do so in a responsible manner so that they neither compromise their own nor others’ safety.

Thursday, August 02, 2007

Ben More sunset


From the shores of the island of Ulva, the setting sun casts a red glow on the now cold basalt rocks of Ben More on Mull. Once it spouted red molten magma from deep within the Earth and was the largest volcano in Europe. Today its lava fields cover 840 square kilometres and are up to 1.8 kilometres thick. The islands round Loch na Keal bear testament to this fiery past and are an irresistable magnet to any sea kayaker.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

First glimpse of the Wilderness





Loch na Keal nearly bisects the mountainous isle of Mull. The B8073 to the hamlet of Ulva Ferry hugs its north coast. After a long climb you crest a ridge and are confronted with your first view of the Wilderness. 50 million years ago the lavas from the great Ben More volcano were finally halted by the sea here at the edge of the Ardmeanach peninsula. The cliffs of the Wilderness now tumble steeply for 370 metres to the shores of Loch na Keal below. Today the Wilderness is home only to goats, sea eagles and pelagic sea kayakers. Our first glimpse of the Wilderness set our hearts beating in anticipation of an outstanding paddle. We were not to be disappointed.

Monday, July 30, 2007

The Wilderness of Mull


The Wilderness of Mull lies at the foot of a giant series of lava floes from the extinct Mull volcano. There is almost no easy access on foot due to the near vertical lava cliffs at the top of the slope. The whole is composed of alternate layers of lava and volcanic ash. Where the sea has eroded its base there are fossil remains of organisms that were overcome by the eruptions.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Teeming waters below the Wilderness of Mull


Below the sea stack of Caisteal Sloc nam Ban on the Wilderness coast of Mull the waters were crystal clear. They were teeming with sand-eels and sprats. Great flotillas of immature shearwaters were learning to fish and shoals of mackerel would bring the smaller fish to the surface so that the water boiled. We also feasted on mackerel, eating them even before rigor mortis set in! Delicious!

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Magical Mull cave light


Once we ducked our heads and entered this cave on the Wilderness of Mull, we entered another world. The water was a transluscent and luminous green. Dripping water from the roof splashed and tinkled on the surface of the water and there was a deep gurgling from the dark recesses of the cave. Reluctantly we left before the tide rose and trapped us.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Caves on the Wilderness of Mull


There are many caves on the Wilderness coast of Mull. This is one of the smallest and we had to duck down to enter on a rising spring tide!

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Moonset over Little Colonsay and Lunga


After a long day, when we paddled from 9am to 10pm, we prepared a meal on a rocky knoll on the island of Inch Kenneth in Loch na Keal on the remote west coast of Mull. Long after sunset there was still a red glow in the north western sky as a dusky crescent moon sank below the island of Little Colonsay at the mouth of the loch.

Monday, July 23, 2007

Turquoise seas of Iona



Sometimes it is nice just to float along and slip off into a dream of Iona.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

The hardships of Scottish seakayaking.



I am just back from a week trip; sea kayaking the west coast of Mull and its outliers. The weather here in the UK has been exceptionally wet and breezy for July. I am often asked what it is that attracts me to paddling in this harsh environment. Perhaps this photo of Port Bhan may give the dear reader a small inkling of the strong pull of the Hebrides?

Our caddies travel ahead, by a variety of means, and assemble our social and refreshment tents prior to our arrival on pristine cockleshell sand beaches. Why they even scour far and wide for some small pieces of driftwood just so that we may enjoy a little late night incendiary activity.

19/07/2007

Friday, July 20, 2007

On location

Posts will resume soon On west coast Mull no mobile recep Great new photos also assesed new seakayaking pubs Truly seakayak heaven :o)

Sunday, July 08, 2007

Ixodes ricinus and Lyme disease


This charming looking insect is Ixodes ricinus or the hard bodied tick. (The penny is 15mm in diameter.)

It preys on mammals by sucking their blood and storing it in its abdomen. It particularly likes rabbits, sheep, deer and sea kayakers. This year seems a bad season for them and it is worth examining yourself after walking through vegetation like bracken. They climb it in wait and anticipation of feasting upon their next victim.


Traditionally people have pulled then out with their nails or tweezers, burned them off with a cigarette or attempted to suffocate or stun them using Vaseline or alcohol. Unfortunately all these methods cause the little creature to dig further in and to puke its stomach contents into the victim's blood stream. This partially digested blood is a heady cocktail that contains another of God's creations, a spirochete bacterium called Borrelia burgdorferi sensu lato. This causes a condition called Lyme disease in humans. Believe me (and I am a doctor), Lyme disease is something you would much prefer not to have.

Public service announcement: if you get a red ring spreading out from a tick bite you should seek medical advice, mention you have been bitten by a tick and you are concerned about Lyme disease.

A much safer way to remove the injurious, illegitimate and far from insignificant insects is to use a little rotating hook such as the O'Tom, available from all good veterinary surgeries. You slide the tapered fork behind its bloated abdomen then slowly twist without pulling. The tick can resist a pull by digging in with its jaws and fore feet but it's helpless against gentle rotation. Some favour anticlockwise and others clockwise rotation. My own experience is that both are equally effective.

Are you curious what to do with the now pitifully struggling insect which you have untimely ripped from its natural element? Well, this might not be good for your Karma, but the following is my humble suggestion. I take some delight in burning the hapless former parasite.

If only it was so easy to get revenge on the Scottish midge.

Saturday, July 07, 2007

Ayrshire agate



This banded agate was found on the south Ayrshire coast under the cliffs on which Culzean Castle stands. Agates form as nodules within cooling lava. As the lava weathers the nodules are released and get broken open by wave action. They are also found on Ayrshire's raised beaches which are used to grow Ayrshire potatoes. Hunters of the semi precious stones will often follow the tractors which plough the fields.

Friday, July 06, 2007

Treshnish friends.


Sammy, I am not speaking till you get the name right. It's NEVILLE!

Razorbill and Puffin on the Treshnish Isles.

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Tiderace Seakayaks.



Tiderace Seakayaks is a new name on the UK sea kayaking scene. Aled Williams (formerly of Rockpool kayaks and designer of the delectable Alaw and Alaw Bach) has decided to rename his new company (formerly known as In-Uit Kayaks) in respect of the tradition and culture of the Inuit people who come from the Arctic territories of Alaska, Canada and Greenland. Michael, who has spent a great deal of time with these people, has already drawn attention to the appropriateness of the name. I am sure Aled chose the name out of respect to the Inuit origins of our sport. I am equally sure that Aled has made the correct and sensitive decision to rename the company.

I like the name Tiderace and here is Kenny paddling an Aled designed boat in a tide race: the Cuan Sound.

Monday, July 02, 2007

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Crossing to Scarba


Leaving the fertile grassy slopes of the

Garvellachs, we headed south east for Scarba. It is a barren and rocky isle with few places to land. We stopped here for a second luncheon whilst we waited for a favourable tide in the Corryvreckan. In this view the Garvellachs can be seen in the middle distance with Mull beyond.


The GPS track of our route.


From the Garvellachs the horizon to the south east is blocked by Scarba on the left and Jura on the right. From this distance the Gulf of Corryvreckan, which lies between, them looks like a sheltered sea loch.


There is a raised beach on top of a line of cliffs which surround most of Scarba's coast. This means that even if you can find a landing spot, access to the interior is barred by the cliffs. No wonder the 5th century monks chose the Garvellachs!

Saturday, June 30, 2007

Eithne's grave.


This simple stone, incised with a Celtic cross, can be found on a peaceful knoll, high above the monastery on Eileach an Naoimh in the Garvellachs.


We have wandered and spent time reflecting here several times before traversing the tides of the Grey Dogs or the Corryvreckan. I have always enjoyed the contrasting emotions experienced on such sea kayaking trips.

The grave is thought to be the last resting place of St Columba's mother, Eithne.

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Praise the dawn.


Sammy razorbill greets a new day.

It's always reassuring to have another day ahead of you.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Leaving of Jura


A charter boat enters the Corryvreckan at dawn to pick up a party from the Glengarrisdale bothy. I wonder if they had managed to drink all their supplies and if they were ready?


It may be calm but the water is accelerating and it is against us!


Looking back to the Corryvreckan. Tony decided it would be fun to paddle back to Carraig Mohr with the start of the flood back into the Corryvreckan. I was not so sure and what I did not realize is that Tony thought Maol Eilean was Carraig Mor (which was actually a half kilometer further on). So Tony hung back at Maol Eilean while I paddled on down the accelerating slope! Fortunately I managed to break out next to the rocks. I then had a stiff paddle back round the point, much to Tony's amusement!. This was at 07:39 am two days after neaps and slack water before the start of the flood was predicted to be 06:59. A few minutes later and we would have been back on the west coast of Jura!


Sammy the white tailed sea eagle and friend.


A blink of sun on barnacle covered rocks on the east coast Jura. The north going flood was building against us all the while so we eddy hopped up the coast. Breaking through the current round each headland was tricky as it was all too easy for the bow to swing wide carrying us far out into the strongest current. The sharpest eddy line we met was at Rubh' an Truisealaich, just round the green hill above. After that the current dropped and in places we had a helpful counter eddy.


Sammy the otter.


Tony with the Paps of Jura disappearing into the mist.


Sammy the puffin.


A last blink of sun while crossing the Sound of Jura and approaching the Knapdale coast. This was the end of a perfect weekend. We arrived at Carsaig Bay just as the drizzle started and the midges came out.