Monday, August 27, 2007

The Oyster Brewery Bar, Seil


Tony and I are just back from a two day trip through the tide races of the Grey Dogs, Sound of Luing and Cuan Sound. It was incredibly thirsty work and our palates were dry as a bone by the time we reached sanctuary in one of the flooded slate quarries of the village of Ellenabeich on the Island of Seil. High above us, we spotted what could be an oasis of refreshment.


We scrambled out of our boats, leaving them moored as there was no beach, and made our way up to street level through a nice old lady's back garden (there are easier ways!). We came across not only a pub but The Oyster Brewery Bar which has an attached brewery; no wonder Tony is licking his lips!


The staff did not bat an eye lid as they took an order from two salty sea dogs dripping brine on the floor. We usually ask for Guinness but given that the brewery was next door, we thought it would be churlish not to order a pint of their finest. Our chosen brew was "Grey Dogs strong ale" in celebration of our recent passage through said tidal race. This race is very accurately depicted on the beer tap label.


We supped this delicious brew on the beer terrace which overlooks the Sound of Luing and brooding Scarba (to the north of which lies the Grey Dogs.) At this point I should issue a sea kayaking health warning. Grey Dogs is a highly intoxicating substance which only just avoids classification under the Dangerous Drugs Act. Our delicate constitutions are used to the mild effects of Guinness and I am not surprised that the establishment displays a safety notice about climbing on the balcony. Tony and I had visions of packs, of those driven barking mad by overindulgence, throwing themselves over the edge.

We decided to forego a hair of the dog and limit ourselves to one pint. So after a most enjoyable visit to this fine sea kayaking pub, we made our way very carefully back to the boats.


The water on the approach to the Cuan Sound was particularly rough and Tony and I were glad that we enjoyed our "Grey Dogs strong ale" in such moderation.

Thursday, August 23, 2007

MacKinnon's Cave


Continuing our voyage of discovery up the Wilderness coast of Mull, we came upon MacKinnon's Cave, the deepest in the whole of the Hebrides.


By happen chance the low summer evening sun was shining directly into the depths of the cave which reach over 180 meters into the heart of the mountain. When Boswell and Johnson visited in 1773 they suffered "a penury of light" provided by a single candle. How would they have written about the wondrous cave light we saw?

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Alien shower in the Wilderness of Mull


Paddling NE up the alien features of the Wilderness coast of Mull, it was getting hot and airless. We came upon this refreshing shower complete with mini rainbow.


As the others paddled round the next headland I was left alone. I tarried under the shower and water ran through my hair. I looked up then closed my eyes and let the drips run down my nose into my open mouth. As I felt the boat moving gently beneath me, a sudden vision of slowly swaying, clanking chains and alien jaws dripping saliva started me out of my day dream!

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

The fossil tree of Mull.


Approaching the Wilderness coast of Mull from Staffa, we landed at a natural recess in the rocks.


The Mull volcanic eruption of 50 million years ago did not just spill out over a barren landscape, it buried a land of verdant forests. At the back of the beach, to the left of distorted basalt columns, you can see the vertical impression of a tree trunk that managed to stay upright after it was engulfed by lava.


When it was first discovered by McCulloch, there was still a charcoal like deposit round the trunk where the bark had been. Despite its inaccessibility on foot, this has been hacked away by souvenir hunters who have since started chipping away the remains of the rocky stump. It has now been capped with concrete.

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Thunder clouds over Staffa


As we completed our circumnavigation of Staffa, thunderclouds gathered over the mountains of Gometra, Ulva and Mull. Despite the geological splendours of this stunning little island, we found no sea kayaking pubs to delay our progress. Despite our thirst, we decided it would be prudent to return to the mainland of Mull. We headed for the Wilderness coast of the Ardmeanach peninsula, to see if we could find McCulloch's fossil tree....

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Boat Cave, Staffa


Just round the corner from Fingal's Cave on Staffa is the Boat Cave. We call it the Pharoh's Cave as its entrance looks a bit like the entrance to an Egyptian tomb.


Looking up at the roof of the cave as you enter gives this simply stunning view.