Tuesday, April 17, 2007

The wreck of the SV Chile



While paddling round Burrow Head, Tony and I came across the wreck of the iron sailing vessel Chile. She lies at the low water mark at the foot of a defile through the cliffs, which are to the north west of Port Castle Bay.



Her riveted iron plates and winches litter the shore. She was a German vessel, built for the nitrate trade with Chile and was impounded in Liverpool at the outbreak of WW1. Captain Weaver was taking her to Glasgow when she was driven on to the shore by a storm and the powerful tides round Burrow Head. Her great masts towered above the cliffs but the sea was pounding her to pieces. The Captain managed to get the crew safely ashore in the boats then led them to safety up a steep path through the cliffs, known as the Ladies' Steps. They were so grateful that they presented him with a picture of the ship which can still be seen in the Wigtown Bay Sailing Club clubhouse.



The resting place of SV Chile.

Monday, April 16, 2007

Burrow Head



Last Wednesday, Tony and I paddled Burrow Head in south west Scotland.



It juts into the strong tidal streams of the Solway and separates Luce Bay and Wigtown Bay.





We found strong tidal streams, some of the best rock architecture, caves and rockhopping which either of us have found anywhere on Scotland's west coast or the Hebrides. Another plus for the magnificent south west.

Sunday, April 15, 2007

Solway sunset.



I am just back from a week down at Fleet Bay on the Solway. We had fabulous weather. By coincidence, Simon Willis has published a podcast on this wonderful area.

Friday, April 06, 2007

The Weatherman.



They don't call me The Weatherman for nothing you know!



Despite all odds, today Tony and I spent our third consecutive paddle completing the last section of the 85km round of the Rhinns of Galloway. It is a remote peninsula washed by the tides of the North Channel that run at up to 5 knots in springs. There are few places to land.



When we arrived at Killantringan Bay there was some pleasant surf which delayed our start as we just had to do several runs! A big dumper carried away one of my splits but Tony recovered it. Unfortunately another dumper got Tony but he rolled up nae bother. Despite being a bit damp, he carried on with no complaints.



We decided to press on...



...but were diverted by another surf beach.



Fortunately all this delay let the spring ebb pick up and it shoved us along at a fair rate. Just as well really, this was a 31km leg. At the north end of the peninsula a force 4 wind was running againt the ebb, what with the swell as well, it was quite a bouncy trip so there are few on the water photos. Even though it was Good Friday we did not see any other sea kayaks or even fishing boats. All we saw were ferries leaving Loch Ryan.

The Rhinns of Galloway; what a location and I doubt many have paddled it. Isn't seakayaking great?

Wednesday, April 04, 2007

Glorious Galloway #3



Yet another cave on the Rhinns of Galloway.



Dunskey Castle was built in 1510 by Adair of Kilhilt. It fell into the hands of the Blair family but was a ruin by 1684. They built Dunskey House in 1706 as a more comfortable replacvement.



Tony surveys the attraction of the Crown Hotel in Portpatrick. (The building with the red sign.)



End of a perfect day.

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Glorious Galloway!



The Rhinns of Galloway really are superb. We launched from Port Logan in the lee of its ancient jetty. In the excellent Scottish Sea Kayaking, Cooper and Reid recommend launching from the fish pond car park which is marked on the map at 096104 (I presume they mean 096410) but access to the beach from here is down a steep wooden staircase with a right angled bend. I would suggest launching from another car park which is not marked on the map but is right beside the beach, 094404, in the shelter of the quay.



Approaching the Mull of Logan you will hopefully find yourself in the strong push of the tide. If not, you might need to brush up on your tidal planning. Close inshore, the north going ebb starts 3 hours before local high water at Portpatrick.



The Mull of Logan is riddled with caves, stacks and channels. It is easy to lose sight of your friends in the maze.



As you can see, David had an enjoyable swim in a cave. A swell shoved him in sideways till his bow and stern got jammed on the narrowing sides. When the swell receded he was left momentarily hanging, until gravity exercised its inevitable effect. A Palm Stikine dry suit and Fourth Element Xerotherm Arctic under suit meant that his swim in 9 degree Celsius water was a jolly jape and not a serious incident. This happened just 3km into a 27km day but it did not spoil our day.



In fact we spent so long exploring the Mull of Logan's fantastic arches that the tide turned against us for the last 7km.

The Rhinns of Galloway has tides with overfalls, surf beaches, rocky coves, caves, arches, isolation, ancient castles, quaint harbour villages and towns. It even has excellent sea kayaking pubs and ice cream shops. Tony and I have paddled extensively on Scotland's west coast. A lot of Scottish sea kayakers would say the Garvellachs area is their favourite, but this coastline really beats the islands of Lorn. Paddle it before the crowds arrive!

Sunday, April 01, 2007

The Amazing Rhinns of Galloway


One of several Mull of Logan arches


Yesterday we explored another part of the Rhinns of Galloway coastline, which is washed by the powerful tides of the North Channel which separates Scotland and Ireland. It was one day before maximum spring tides so there was considerable disturbance round the headlands.


Surfing into Ardwell Bay


Portayew Bay


We passed several bold headlands with tidal races; Mull of Logan, Money Head, and Black Head (above).


Just one of innumerable caves.

We left from Port Logan and headed north west to Killantringan Bay to the north of Black Head. We had amazing rock hopping amongst a maze of stacks and skerries and some of the most perfect arches and caves I have found anywhere on the west coast of Scotland. We passed deserted beaches, ancient duns and castles and all in all had the most perfect day. I am amazed that there is so little mention of this incredible coastline in Scottish sea kayaking circles.