Friday, November 17, 2006

Winter sea kayaking



It has been a fine and mild autumn but outside the gale is blowing and the last of the autumn leaves have been stripped from the trees. The deciduous woodlands have entered the skeletal grip of winter.



In the warmth of the evening living room, the radio road reports are warning of snow on the main road north to the Highlands from Glasgow. Snow is falling between Crianlarich and Glen Coe. The Scottish winter has arrived.



Of course Scottish sea kayakers are a hardy breed descended, as we are, from great Viking and Celtic seafarers.



Hot Scottish blood courses through our veins and a little drop in the temperature scarcely bothers such hardy creatures, whether bearded or unbearded.



However, recent talk (on this very blog) of swimming from the kayak raises some serious concern. Even the resilient Scottish constitution, however fortified or naturally insulated, is not immune from the hyopothermic effects of the winter North Atlantic.



It was not entirely coincidence, therefore, that a package arrived this morning from that reputable manufacturer of dive clothing: Fourth Element. The contents of the parcel were their renowned Xerotherm Arctic top and bottom, designed to provide thermal protection and moisture wicking under a membrane dry suit.

"Using a combination of fast wicking, high insulation fabrics, the Xerotherm Arctic creates a micro climate around the wearer, keeping the body dry and warm. A high density inner fleece provides superior insulation, with maximum comfort and wicking, whilst the outer layer, which has a water repellent finish, ensures a snug fit."

I hasten to add that the fine gentleman pictured above is not my good self. The package from Fourth element was totally devoid of the optional body kit; my dolphin avatar is chosen for good reason. However, it is much easier for someone of my particular athletic build to buy diving attire than cycling wear (how I detest yellow lycra). Although not mentioned on their website, Fourth Element thoughtfully do their large waisted bottoms in a short legged version. Imaginations may run riot in the absence of photography.

I wonder if they do shorts for under the kilt?

If I do run into Deep Trouble, I am confident my thermal protection will give me time to self rescue. Failing that, I hope to survive long enough to hear the beat of the big yellow budgie overhead. I love the smell of kerosene in the morning!

Thursday, November 16, 2006

Longships at Largs: past and present.



The "Pencil" commemorates the site of the Battle of Largs in 1263. The Vikings in Orkney heard that the Scots had become interested in the "Lordship of the Isles", which consisted of the Hebrides and Kintyre. The Lordship was only nominally under Viking control but the thought of a Scots invasion sent their longships south.

After King Haakon IV of Norway made his way through Kyle Akin, the straight between Skye and the mainland, he led his fleet to the Firth of Clyde where King Alexander III of Scotland waited for him. An autumn gale got up and grounded some of the longships. While the Scots attacked the stricken vessels, the main Viking fleet was unable to land its troops in the storm. After five stormy, days King Haakon withdrew the rest of his fleet back to his base in Orkney. He planned to return in the spring but died during the winter. The balance of power had shifted and the Scots regained dominion over the Hebrides.

The Clan Donald were the successors of the Celtic hero Somerled (c1100 - 1164) who was the first "Lord of the Isles". They ruled the Hebrides at first under the Vikings and then under the Scots until 1493. Ironically, for a Celtic clan, their male descendents have been shown to carry a Viking Y chromosome.



Today Largs is one of the most popular venues for Scottish sea kayakers. The Cumbrae Islands are not far from shore and the Isles of Bute and Arran lie beyond. However, the apparently sheltered waters are subject to unpredictable winds, which channel through the islands and surrounding hills. Viking longships are not the only vessels to have come to grief here. Despite its attraction to beginners, many sea kayakers have found themselves taking an unexpected swim. On three separate occasions that I have been paddling here, there has been a swimmer.







Weather conditions are not the only thing sea kayakers need to be aware of. This is a busy deep water shipping channel. Note the kayaker under the bow of the ore carrier Aquabeauty.



Hunterston ore terminal is the deepest water dock in Europe. The jetty runs for one mile out into the channel and it can handle ships up to 350,000 tons. Aquabeauty is a relatively small 170,000 tons. The cranes can off load 2,400 tons of coal or iron ore per hour.