In the wake of the dead: a sea kayaking pilgrimage to Oronsay and Colonsay via Jura.

For those who would like to follow the thread of this great trip to Oronsay and Colonsay via Jura from start to finish, I hope this index will be useful. We launched from Carsaig Bay NR735877. We paddled 136km over four days. On the outward trip we portaged the 2km over the Jura isthmus from Tarbert Bay in the east to Loch Tarbert in the west. We returned through the Corryvreckan.

Read Ian's trip summary here.

Day 1 Carsaig Bay, Argyll mainland to Glenbatrick Bay, Jura: 26km

Blog 1 Paddling and portaging in the wake of the dead.

Blog 2 Enchanted again by the remote west coast of Jura.

Day 2 Glenbatrick Bay, Jura to Kiloran Bay, Colonsay: 41km.

Blog 3 You may rue the day you meet the giant bothy rat and adders of Ruantallain.

Blog 4 Landfall in an Oronsay midden.

Blog 5 Why sea kayakers should consider carrying a PLB, unless they are full sibling to an ostrich.

Blog 6 Our sea kayaking pilgrimage comes to a peaceful end in Oronsay Priory.

Blog 7 Between a rock and a hard place on the wild west cost of Colonsay.

Blog 8 Breaking the spell of the Cailleach Uragaig on the NW coast of Colonsay.

Blog 9 Two schools of seakayaking campers, a tattie howkin' stick and a Colonsay sunset.

Day 3 Kiloran Bay, Colondsay to Shian Bay Jura: 30km.

Blog 10 A washed up whale and an adequate supply of washed up wood on the machair of north Colonsay.

Blog 11 Absolute consensus, armadas, wrecks and goats all end up at Balnahard Beach.

Blog 12 A cuckoo in every cove, flapping sails and giant wings on the NE coast of Colonsay.

Blog 13 Cake, beer and wind in Scalasaig harbour, Colonsay.

Blog 14 Perfect paddle sailing past the Paps of Jura.

Blog 15 Hebridean boules on the machair of Jura.

Blog 16 Baked Bramley apples at a Shian Bay Sunset.

Day 4 Shian Bay, Jura to Carsaig Bay, Argyll mainland: 40km.

Blog 17 A cold second breakfast at dead end beach, Jura

Blog 18 Waiting for the Corryvreckan tide at Glengarrisdale.

Blog 19 The skulls of Glengarrisdale, Jura.

Blog 20 A traverse of the Gulf of Corryvreckan disturbed only by a shoal of fish.

Blog 21 Taking a break at Red Rock.

Blog 22 End of day in Carsaig Bay.

Postscript

If you would prefer not to paddle the Corryvreckan in the conditions in this photo, you can time your traverse for slack water:

The west going flood begins +0430 HW Oban (-0100 HW Dover)  at 7 to 8 knots at springs and +0515 HW Oban (-0015 HW Dover) at neaps.

The east going ebb begins -0145 HW Oban (+0515 HW Dover) up to 8 knots at springs and -0100 HW Oban (+0600 HW Dover) at neaps.

The time changes by 6.5 minutes each day between springs and neaps. The constant between HW Dover and HW Oban does vary, so most accurate times are calculated by using HW Oban times (though not if you have calculated HW Oban indirectly from HW Dover!!).

Slack water lasts up to 30 minutes at neaps. At springs there is no real slack, there is always water moving about somewhere in the Corry. These times are pretty good as long as there is high pressure. Low pressure and wind can alter timing considerably.

Full bore in the Sound of Jura.

Mike kindly ran me from Oban to Carsaig Bay where we met Tony at 1630. We were bound for a circumnavigation of the south half of Jura.  This would involve a portage from Tarbert Bay on the east coast to West Loch Tarbert (Jura) on the west coast. We bid farewell to Mike and were on the water by 1730. We had 15km to go but this was the Sound of Jura and the tide was ebbing to the SW which would give us a considerable push.

As we paddled out of Carsaig Bay we caught sight of the distant Paps of Jura. Our route would take us on a wide circumnavigation of these peaks.

We even had a little breeze to assist our passage  and we soon travelling at the heady speed of 10 to 12km/hr.

 Away to the north Scarba loomed above the north end of Jura and the great Gulf of Corryvreckan.

We were heading for the lowest point on the Jura skyline but had to divert at right angles to the course of the very rapidly approaching...

...S73 Hermelin a German Navy Schnellboot, which was making her way up the Sound of Jura at high speed. Her 4 diesel engines give her a top speed of 40 knots so we had to paddle quite hard until we saw her port side and could relax.

 S73 Hermelin was wearing her NATO pennant number P6123 as part of the Joint Warrior exercise.

Thankfully she was going so fast that the racket of her engines soon disappeared leaving peace in the Sound of Jura once more.

 An hour and fifty minutes after leaving Carsaig Bay we arrived at Tarbert on Jura.

 We were welcomed by a large dog otter.

 Tarbert is not a big place and we saw more otters than people as..

...we paddled into the head of the bay at the end of the day.